It might be a TCR 1. I always get that mixed up. When I checked the website yesterday, it showed the TCR 2 at the price I bought my bike for and so thought that’s what I have. I always thought one was more expensive than the other and that I had the cheaper one.
But…I don’t think the difference is that one is aluminum and the other is carbon. I think it’s a smaller difference, and so I get confused. There seems to be a “1” on the frame of mine.
Sorry about not being sure about any of this. I just get out there and ride when I can and don’t worry too much about everything else!
Check if the shipment is stuck at Taiwan customs. Sometimes they are a-holes when it comes to things bought from overseas online sites.
I previously bought something from Rapha and Chain Reaction and they both got stopped at customs and I paid a nice 1000NT for them to pass customs. Never again.
Hm, never thought it would be beneficial to not put bar tape on there. Hands don’t get slippery during rides though?
The U-joint wraps around close the bars the extend forward, even when I loosen the thing all the way. I wouldn’t be able to slide the bars back with tape on them.
As far as my hands, I don’t really grasp the bars unless I’m going over a bump or unless I need to turn suddenly. I just rest them lightly on the portions that are angled upwardly. Most of my weight is on the elbow supports.
Normally, for second hand stuff, I like to buy from friends. This way I know what the parts have gone through. The C24 wheels and 9000 group set (minus the crank set) were bought from a friend. Crank set, saddle and pedals were all bought on second hand FB groups.
Ruten is the second hand or business 2 consumer website. However, it’s a pain in the ass to sign up/buy/sell. I would use it as a reference for price matching.
There’s one major second hand FB group that people post some very legitimate components. Check this FB group “2017 你 愛 他 全新 二手 商品交易平台”. This is where I bought my crank set and saddle. Your FB profile pic has to be cycling related to get in. A fair warning, admins are pretty strict on the rules, make sure you read them or have someone translate them for you before buying/selling.
The group is a buyers market. Sucks to be a seller, but it’s a good way to get rid of higher end components if you don’t want them sitting around. Shoot me a PM if you have any other questions. I’ll be happy to chat about it.
Thanks for that, have sent a request after changing my FB pic and will have a look. You’re right though, the dude’s written an entire thesis on how to set rules for a Facebook group…
I don’t know how base pricing ultimately works, but when the AUD was strong against NTD, I would say things are cheaper here. But now that the AUD has fallen a fair bit, almost everything is more expensive in Taiwan. Even if we take RRP out of the equation though and assume they are exactly the same after currency exchange, in Australia for a non-custom bike, you can realistically get 18-20% off the price in the form of cash, not vouchers or credit.
The only thing I’ve found cheaper in Taiwan thus far is the Shimano DA rubber brake hoods, but even then I had another shop quote me a price twice as expensive!
Doubtful. the DA9070 rubber hood has to be the most fragile POS I’ve ever touched. putting it on/unscrewing the clamp will generally stretch it so it no longer fits on the shifters properly, and a strong pull will rip it. Quite documented on the internets now and I’ve had the exact same experience via shops and installs myself.
I like symmetry, and use a Fouriers on my road bike, which has a Go-Pro mount underneath.
It comes including 3 adapter plates for different brands.
Paid some Ntd. 650 delivered from yahoo.tw.
There’s 2 sizes, depending on what Garmin you’re using. It does the job, although there’s not much room to access the start and lap buttons if you’ve got a 520.
[quote=“ranlee, post:244, topic:83077, full:true”]I’m curious as to what your DIY mount comprises of. Could you share more?
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I made this one as a simple try-out from a 10NT clamp, basically to check if swapping the Bryton between bikes made sense.
Used a longer bolt, a bushing, the spare Bryton adapter, and some small Allen bolts to fix things up.
It is sturdy, and works rather fine, so one day I will replicate the mount in a bit more attractive design, probably in a 3D print.