Car problems


MJB, the total for reairs was a shade over NT$4000, including new plugs and an oil change. That was 3 months ago and I haven’t had any problems since.

With insurance and transfer fees (negligible) this car has cost me about NT$35000. A large proportion of that money is taxes and, to be honest, I can’t really justify spending it. I drive the car maybe once a week and if you add parking costs to the equation it would probably be cheaper to take a taxi.

So I’m thinking of selling it. I don’t NEED the money, and there are no compelling reasons to sell it, so I’m not in a hurry. I’m asking NT$30,000 and will probably get beaten down to maybe NT$25000. Take the taxes into consideration and the actual cost of running the car (the nuts, bolts, and rust) is pretty low. Owning an old rustbucket makes far more sense than buying a new car and watching it depreciate in value.

I’m at Lotus Hill, XiZhi.

It’s a manual, good stereo (tape), ac is not bad, a bit ratty and rusty, but it runs fine. There’s a short, or faulty relay, in the indicators on one side so the light flashes too quickly, and the fuel guage is buggered, but otherwise everything works. It passed the emissions test first time when I bought it but the seller told me she often needed two or three attempts. (Westerner, she owned the car for a few years.)

Taxes paid until March, I think. Insurance 'til August. NT$650 buys enough petrol to get me over 300km of city driving.

Needs cleaning!

One more thing, 'cos I’m an honest sort of a guy:

It’ll start without any problem, but when cold it has to idle for 30-60 seconds before you can take it anywhere. Try to rev the engine before then and it cuts out. Wait a minute before going anywhere and the problem goes away. I’ve had this with old cars in the past and it’s no big deal to fix. I just don’t use the car enough to bother dealing with it. I would need to either:

  • take it into the shop, which means having a warm engine, and explain (with minimal chinese) a problem that only happens when it’s cold, or
  • buy tools, a manual, and possibly parts.

I think it’s an ignition problem, maybe just the timing? Any ideas anyone? I guess I’ll take it in and get it fixed with the new owner as part of the deal.

Sure you want to sell it a month before winter starts?

The fast blinking is most often not a short but simply a blown tail light. As for the car taking 30-60 seconds to run normally, I’d leave it alone. An engine that old needs a good warming up anyway, and it will keep the new owner from doing the turn the key and dash.

Why don’t you ponder that decision for a while? An old clunker that runs well is worth hanging on to for those weekend road trips. Not to mention the added bonus of keeping your date dry on those cold winter trips to the coast. :wink:

I checked the lights, thanks.

Yep, I’m not sure I want to sell the car. But I don’t use it so I’m open to offers.

Date? What date? It’s just me and the dawg.

Does your car not have a choke? My civic is as old as yours, and there is no way I’d be able to move it when I first start it if it weren’t for the choke.

it could be the points on the distributor cap or it could be the valves could be a little clogged or maybe it is just old

As long as the car does not cut out once it gets warm or when you are driving down the road it should be ok… the best way is to let it warm up first before you take off. This should be done as a rule anyway for cars and its even better for older cars… it allows the hole in the sump to heat up and thus can lubricate the parts better reducing wear and tear.

As long as the car starts when you want it to start, drives without any problem then thats all you need.
Having a old looking car is the best deterrent to not having your car stolen

Whether you want to sell it or not and since you don’t drive it much.,… I would say that it would be better to start it once a week and let it run idle for a while