keep telling ya, forget Quannon… just make the CPI lighter. Supermonostyle…
Do you happen to find any photos of that guys bike??
keep telling ya, forget Quannon… just make the CPI lighter. Supermonostyle…
Do you happen to find any photos of that guys bike??[/quote]
Off topic, but here is the website and some pics. It doesn’t say CPI on the engine, but supposedly CPI has the same engine manufactured and the specs are the same. The owner even said it was the CPI engine, but don’t get me wrong he has changed all the internals. He is not using stock CPI parts in that engine…no way! I got to see it a few weeks ago. Fuck it is cool and I can’t believe how fast it is. He is faster than mine built to shit NSR 150cc and the Honda RS. The guy is trying to get people interested so he can make more. Only 28 hp, 105kg…
http://www.moto7.net/2012/09/gp-mono-hpm-250.html?spref=fb
I’m thinking about buying an illegal Honda CRF 250cc and then take the engine and fit it into my NSR frame. My bike is so built, why waste the money on building an entire bike again. Then, just put my CPI engine in the CRF frame and with use my license plate from my CPI and the Honda CRF will be legal for the road. Future projects!!! 
Off topic,
The guy is trying to get people interested so he can make more. Only 28 hp, 105kg…
[/quote][/quote]
this is not OT at all - HOW MUCH?!?
This is exactly what I was saying - are you really suprised that that bike is faster then anything else?
PS; engine swapping is easier said then done - especially the CPI inside the CRF frame sounds like trouble…
My front master cylinder broken, its stack in close position and jamming front brake pads, barely can move bike.
How much did you pay for yours aftermarket master cylinder? My local speed shop quoted 2500NT ( I didn’t ask but I assume it with installation)
[quote=“pommes king”]-now it just happens sometimes… 
Ah Sen took it apart and found that there was a second hole in the link, hidden behind the spacer. It’s only a couple of mm’s apart but it makes a massive height difference.
Much better now. And so is the front brake - I only changed the master cylinder, so there’s still room for improvement. It’s good, but not good enough to brake with 1 finger yet.
[/quote]
certainly not less…
I wonder if changing to a bigger disc (+adapter) would increase the braking force enough to endo with just one finger.
[quote=“rk1951”]To be fair, I have heard of guys having problems, but almost everything I have heard is crap from foreigners. I have yet to personally meet anyone with major problems. I am really involved in the local racing scene here and none of those other Taiwanese guys that have CPI’s have any problems.
Also, riding the CPI doesn’t hurt my back, but my ass gets sore after riding for over 2 hours.[/quote]
Are these stock racing bikes? What is the average mileage on these machines before rebuild and/or repairs?
Standard setup works fine to me to use one finger, but my gloves size XL-XXL :discodance:
certainly not less…
I wonder if changing to a bigger disc (+adapter) would increase the braking force enough to endo with just one finger.[/quote]
obviously yes
[quote=“pommes king”]
this is not OT at all - HOW MUCH?!?
This is exactly what I was saying - are you really suprised that that bike is faster then anything else?
PS; engine swapping is easier said then done - especially the CPI inside the CRF frame sounds like trouble…[/quote]
Not cheap, something like 200,000, maybe more. I will find out the price again. Ah Sen just put a Honda NSR engine into a Kawasaki 250cc dirtbike. It is pretty sweet. He has been doing lots of custom frame shit recently. He thinks he can do the CPI into the CRF frame. The most important think would be to get the CRF engine into the NSR frame. I will deal with the CPI later.
[quote=“sulavaca”]
Are these stock racing bikes? What is the average mileage on these machines before rebuild and/or repairs?[/quote]
Most guys that are racing their CPI’s are not doing engine mods. Just sprockets and carbs for more hp. If you go too big on these CPI’s they can’t take it with their internals. To be honest though, I don’t know what the life span is on their CPI’s. Next time I am out there and I run into the CPI club, I will try and find out more.
Before I bought my CPI it was a racer. The last owner just use it for racing, he really took care of it though. I was skeptical about buying it but it came with so many aftermarket goodies that it was worth it to me. I have only put about 10000 kilometers (which have been extremely hard riding) on it since I have owned it, but there are 20 kilomters on the odometer. Apparently most of the other kilometers are from racing. My engine is sound though. So they are tough. So far so good. Who knows though, maybe it could suddenly just fail. I guess I wouldn’t be surprised. Maybe the builders were having a good day when they built mine because it runs like a dream!
Pommes King has a CPI too, and he trashes the living shit out of his. Yes he has had some minor problems, but nothing out of the ordinary. These engines can take a lot of harsh riding.
With MJB for example, I doubt he would ever be riding a CPI as hard as Pommes King or I ride. We thrash the living shit out of them on mountain roads or at the Longtan race track. I know another foreigner who has owned a CPI for years. He didn’t ride it that much, pretty much to work and back but he never had any problems. I don’t know where all this bad press comes from. It is so freaking weird. Just my two cents on the topic!
Some of the bad press comes from, for example, page 87 above. Worse press, page 33
Reports of problems not being dealt with satisfactorily by a manufacturer are probably more informative/significant than reports of people who havn’t had any problems.
If Kawasaki dealers are now selling this machine, and if they stand behind it, perhaps this aspect will improve.
Guess I need to come and visit again soon…
I actually never tried a crotch rocket on track, would you let me try yours once? 
I’m seriously thinking of giving racing a try; mainly because streets are just too dangerous…
Then and IF so, I cannot imagine racing on 2 strokes, not enough torq, too brittle, too big power differences in between competitors…
How about I buy a second hand CPI and we make that one track ready? Get rid of the heavy stuff, lessen the travel, footrests back, clip ons, blast off…
What are the standard categories? I guess it has to stay a 250?
It’s a fallacy that 4 strokes make more torque than 2 strokes. The only thing they make more of is noise, but they don’t smell as bad.
Get an NSR125 Pommes, it would be cool as!
RK you said it a couple of pages back, most of the shit you hear is from foreigners. Most of them have never ridden one. Mine has 13,000km on it and it’s 3 and a half years old. In that time I’ve probably been to the mountains ten times and to work a couple of hundred. It has had some problems, like the CDI broke and I pushed it halfway home this year. Other than that I’ve broken about ten spokes in the back wheel, I guess from dumping the clutch to get the front wheel up. Nothing else has gone wrong.
If you like pushbikes, the riding position is similar. I think it’s a little too high, but if you drop the forks the already skittish steering will be even worse.
When I first got it I changed down instead of up when overtaking a couple of times, like redlining it in 3rd and then kicking it into second instead of 4th. Never phased the engine or box. The biggest reason I want to sell it is because my daughter can’t go on it as easily as the scooter so I don’t use it any more. Also I’ve just bought a house and it’s kept outside now, covered under the awning but still outside, and it got really rusty in just two weeks when I moved here.
I want to sell it and then get something like a KTM DUKE 350 in three years or so, when my daughter is old enough to hang on by herself and reach the footpegs so I can use it for the school run. I thought about modding the CPI but I always come back to the same conclusion - you can’t polish a turd.
Pommes sums it up well - it’s shit but fun. I never really wanted one, I wanted a Ninja 250 or 600, but I couldn’t afford it. It’s a cheap bike and you get what you pay for. Just test ride RK’s for a couple of days then you’ll know if you want one or not. They are good value in my opinion. 20hp for 120k. You’re not going to get that elsewhere… or maybe you are with a SYM T2?
What engine is graphed, jaame? When I ride my buddy’s KTM 300 XWC, the torque feels like my DRZ400E at the same gearing, only a very narrow peak.
I do like 2 strokes, even the smell - just don’t wanna deal with renewing the engine every 5 hours…
and that’s how much travel my forks have;
People who go up #7 sometimes, be aware. As before, the cops will be waiting for you after the long tunnel, but now they flash from the back - you cannot see them untill you exit. And the speed limit is 30(!). Basicly you can blast through at 140 and do an endo just before the exit if you want to annoy them
Hey guys,
I was just wondering if anyone knew of a good mechanic to bring my CPI SM 250 to in Taipei… I’ve been taking mine to that Jun Ji CPI place that’s close to Jianguo and Bade… but I haven’t felt satisfied. Had brake problems… never really were fixed until I swapped to after market… and even then it wasn’t done right… had my clutch redone with FCC. When I came back my engine case was all scratched up where they put the bolts back on… recently I just had them fix an oil leak (that never happened until I brought it in for them to do the clutch) and they redid the seal… and two days after… I just saw it still leaks oil… so I was just wondering if anyone has another place they bring their bike to.
I’d also be interested in finding a place to get my carb tuned… I bought the CVK 36… but when they put it in (same place)… it had power and bite in first gear but in 4th and 5th wide open it was sputtering so they changed the jet in it… and now it seems like it has half the power… or the exact same power as the original carb not stoked after paying the money for it. (They did redo the air box and I also had an aftermarket carbon exhaust put on).
Any help would be appreciated.
I would take it to the shop that rk uses… they prep race bikes and know what a Keihin FCR-36 flat-slide carb is… not that you have one but you actually want one but don’t know it yet.
Man, how can you handle that much travel in your forks? I would have changed something in the forks ASAP if my motorcycle was like that. Maybe you like it? I don’t know. If you want I can talk about what I know to
fix your forks, but I’m guessing that you may not want/need that.
As for triplesix, man I feel bad for you. Actually, I mostly feel angry, but not at you. You just run into one of the many stupid, retarded, monkey asshats here who think that they can work on a scooter/motorcycle.
Let me see, did the guy take your bike for a ride to see the problem for himself? Probably not, but maybe he did. However, if he did, WTF is the guy returning you’re bike to you like that? Which leads to the next question,
did he test it AFTER the work he did to see if it’s better? Probably not, just turned it on to see if it works and just revved the engine. Like that really shows anything. You have to put the engine under a real load (meaning ride
the bike) to see if the job is finished.
But what really make me see red from reading your post is how they’ve just butchered your engine block. Man, if I saw that the shop had scratched up my engine case after doing work on it, I’d be thinking about taking that
damn compressed air impact wrench that these stupid, retarded, monkey asshats love to use and sticking up his ass and keep pulling the trigger till it goes click. That’s why you have scratches all over your engine case, it’s
from the compressed air impact wrench that was used to drive the bolts in WAY too much. They are supposed to use a torque wrench for a job like that. But good luck finding a shop around here that will do that. Well, I
have seen 2 shops that will use them, if you are there and remind them to use it, but other than that it’s almost unheard of by most shops. But then again, what good is a torque wrench if you don’t know what torque settings
you need to use? I say that, because most shops also don’t have the shop manual that would let one know what torque settings to use.
I would love to rant some more, but I think most of us know the frustration, and so it’s like preaching to the choir. It’s why I’m learning how to be my own mechanic, as it sure beats having to defend attacks on your “anal
sovereignty”.