Thanks. Hoping it wont come to that. Shouldn’t have to, but this IS Taiwan.
Do you in fact live in an underground bunker in an active volcano, with a big chair like you used to get on the long-distance buses here (Dr Evil Buses I call them) , a white cat, and, like, lots of henchmen and henchwomen?
And sharks with lazer beams?
I have 2 cats, none of them are white.
I salvaged a boss chair from clearing a container storage unit last year.
I have a laser but not attached to a shark.
I imagine there’s an active volcano near Taipei.
I have cats, so I can call them henchcats?
That what I thought
sharks would be hard to find near Taiwan. The locals would eat them.
Might have to order from the Internyet.
Or use ill-tempered Sea Bass
Ikea has shark burger.
Those fish balls are shark.
You cant laserise a fish ball, you’d lose credibility.
Cats, OTOH,…they would probably be into lasers. Beats a ball of wool for amusement
I’ve tried to look for regular, 5mw RED lasers… I couldn’t find any.
All they got is those 200mw+ GREEN lasers. I’m not going to play with cats with those, you’re more likely to blind the cats with it. They might be great for popping balloons but not as a cat toy.
Actually cats aren’t hard to satisfy because you got old receipts, boxes, etc. they are pretty happy with it. Except they seem to like throwing up all over the place.
Wee blackboard pointer things? They had them in the all-night hardware stores, though maybe theyve gone out of style.’
I had an LED torch (flashlight in 'Mercan) with one built in, which I used on a student field trip to point out concealed WW2 Japanese gun positions, target designator stylee (much coolth).
This was in daylight, so it must have been fairly bright, and maybe those are no longer considered safe to sell.
So would I, (or rather the Powerbuilt version) but showing pictures of those around the tool shops just gets The M Word.
Since I have apparently lost my plug socket, I went to the nice Ktown tool shop for another. My original would also have worked with the double-ended chaser gizmo with the rubber insert removed, but plug sockets have apparently moved on a bit, the rubbery insert is rather firmly bonded, with a magnetic steel liner, so I had to get another deep 21 mm to go with the gizmo.
Irritatingly could only get 12 point, which I never do if I can avoid it. Hopefully wont be applying much torque to a plug, but could be an issue using it with anything else.
Also got shaving foam. Gilette Foamy Mentholated. Maybe Aloe Vera would have been a better UCL, but too late now.
Running out of stalls. When I’ve finished this coffee I might have to go and destroy my cylinder head…
Felt like it wasn’t working, so I stopped.
Presumably, if you get it right, it gets easier with depth, as you hit the undamaged threads. After a few turns it hadn’t, so I assumed I was cutting new ones.
I suppose I’ll have to order the fancy back tap thing from the US.
Perhaps followed by an insert kit
Before you do that go to that shop near Taipei bridge and look for a M14 x 1.25 tap. They should have it.
If you order from the US it will take a month to get here, because USPS now have covid as an excuse to do a shit job.
I’d think an actual tap will be the same, only more so.
The problem is getting it started right.
If you don’t get it started right you destroy your undamaged threads.
A tap would perhaps do that more efficiently, but I’m not in that much of a hurry.
you use the right tap, usually a plug tap for starting holes. The tap is tapered to make starting holes easier. You don’t use a bottoming tap to start holes for example (bottoming tap is for tapping close to a blind hole).
Not ruined thread all way Down, surely you can ease screw plug in evenly under light pressure until you reach good thread, you’ll feel it when you do.
I’m sure what I did when I crossed head on my Volvo few years ago.
Then don’t attempt to remove or replace plug after.
Maybe.
But if the orientation (axially AND rotationally) is just slightly wrong you’'ll never reach good thread. You’ll be cutting new threads, superimposed on the old threads, so then you’ll have ruined thread all the way down.
Maybe that’ll be good enough to work, and maybe I’ll force myself to do it.
I’ll think about it.
Looking into taking the head off.
I’ve only done that on an OHV engine (BMC B series 1800) and I did it in a lockup, so I could pull the head up with a Spanish Windlass toward a scaffolding pole propped between the walls, (which got quite bent) while I whacked the cast iron head with a BFH.
Took a while
Doing it in the street to one of these fragile wee aluminium OHC 3-cyls might end badly.
But most things end badly. Thats why they end.
Issues identified so far
Some apparent conflict in the (CB20) engine manual on how the valve timing is dealt with (not an issue with an OHV engine)
P. 3-47
"During the cylinder head mounting operation, none of the pistons should come at the TDC position, in order that the pistons may not interfere with the valves."
P.3-65
"Before the cylinder head is mounted on the engine block, make sure that the camshaft is set at the TDC at the end of the compression stroke of the No.1 cylinder "
I suppose that means you have to deliberately put the valve timing`(i.e. its relation to piston position) out and then (hopefully) restore it when its all buttoned up.
This sadly seems inconsistent with guru Old Skool Funk’s valve timing retention technique, which otherwise I rather like.
However P3-54 has, under timing belt removal "“Set the No.1 piston at the TDC at the end of the compression stroke. Note, After the timing belt has been removed from the engine, be sure not to turn the crankshaft”
Uh? Does not seem compatible with the first quote
The other sort-of-issue is that the torque specs are “dry”. HATE that, and normally (a) never install anything dry, and (b) seldom use a torque wrench anyway.
But with head bolts I might have to do as I’m told, though I’m tempted to oil them and cut the torque by 30%
At least it predates those horrible stretchy head bolts that you can’t re-use.
I think
I feel you’re over complicating the job in hand.
Before removing head head try, screwing new plug in using your feel to align, or @Taiwan_Luthiers idea creating new thread with 14mm 1.5 bolt before removing head you havenothing to lose trying.
I hand torque but never a head, you’ll regret not doing so.
My thinking is that by removing the head I can chase the spark plug hole from inside, reproducing the effect of the fancy back tap that I can’t get in Taiwan on a reasonable time scale.
Not considering not using a torque wrench on head bolts. Just don’t like installing anything unlubricated.
Personally I’d try screwing new plug in, swarf will be minimal, nothing to worry about . Fails remove the head.
Not worried about swarf. I’m worried about buggering up the existing threads, which I think is very likely.