Cars been standing for a couple of months while I was back in the yook/yoorup.
Checking the oil before starting I noticed that one side of the dipstick was the reassuring honey-colour of clean oil, but the other was dark grey.
The tissue I wiped the dipstick on has a faintly yellow-gold damp patch that I associate with clean oil, but also a slate-grey “skidmark”,wiped off the dipstick, that looks metallic.
My model is that there were fine metallic wear particles suspended in the oil, and the long stand has allowed them to settle out. Since the dipstick is at an angle, (i.e. not vertical) it can have an upper and a lower side. I wasn’t paying enough attention to know if the upper side was the one with the sediment, though thats what I’d expect.
Is this reasonable? normal (on a very old car)? Havn’t seen it before, but I suppose this combination of circumstances might not have occured/been noticed.
I’d have thought suspended metal would visibly discolor the oil, but I suppose the oil film on a dipstick is rather thin.
I suppose I’d better drain the oil, and maybe drop the sump, (I don’t yet know if its an engine-out job on this car. Hope not.) and look for debris.
I suppose its just possible the dipstick is magnetised (good idea?), but if so I didn’t do it. I’ve got a compass somewhere I could test it with, though.
There was an intermittant tick when I first bought the car but it went away after I pissed about with water-cleaning the cylinders, so I was tempted to call it pre-ignition. Maybe something loose just got ground away and/or lodged somewhere.
When was the last time you changed the oil?
If there are fine metal particles in the oil, you should be able to pick them out with the naked eye, or feel the particles between your finger and thumb if you rub the oil between them.
It sounds like the oil is congealing, and this can cause engine components to stick, seize and fail. You could be getting a buildup of congealed oil. Where you put the oil in, open the cap and stick your finger inside and rub the inside of the casing. if it is dirty and thick with sludge, then your engine may need to be cleaned out.
This is just my experience, though. I’m not a mechanic, so it could be anything.
[quote=“Super Hans”]When was the last time you changed the oil?
If there are fine metal particles in the oil, you should be able to pick them out with the naked eye, or feel the particles between your finger and thumb if you rub the oil between them.
It sounds like the oil is congealing, and this can cause engine components to stick, seize and fail. You could be getting a buildup of congealed oil. Where you put the oil in, open the cap and stick your finger inside and rub the inside of the casing. if it is dirty and thick with sludge, then your engine may need to be cleaned out.
This is just my experience, though. I’m not a mechanic, so it could be anything.[/quote]
Don’t THINK your description applies (fair enough, you didn’t see it, and I don’t currently have a camera).
As I described, the oil looks clean, so I don’t think its typical oil degredation, certainly there are no “classic” signs of black sludge formation.
The particles are very fine. Certainly way below the size where you’d be able to feel individual ones, (even if you had safe-crackers fingertips) and perhaps below the size where they’d be retained by the oil filter, though I perhaps wouldn’t expect them to settle out if they were that small. (Unless the dipstick IS magnetic, but I’d guess most engine wear products these days are non-ferrous. (Edit: The rings and crankshaft will still be steel). If they’re off the crankshaft that seems a bit terminal).
A more optimistic (but less likely) interpretation might be that an additive is settling out of the oil, either part of its original formulation (unlikely?), or a top-up like Molyslip, which the “skidmark” resembles.
I don’t know what oil/(+additive package if any) is in it, since I havn’t changed it since purchase, though I will now. The oil has looked clean up to now (in fact, it still does), I do very low miles, and the sellers (who I believe, 4WIW) told me they’d just had a service, (with oil change) done, when I bought it. I think I’ve only topped it up once, a long time ago, with a very little straight CPC 40W (Edit: Or Delvac 40W, can’t remember, in fact I’m not sure I’ve topped it up at all. It doesn’t use much oil.)
They seem to have had it serviced at the Daihatsu dealer in Kaoshiung. I forgot to ask for the service records when I collected the car, though they sent me some scans (in Mandarin, natch) subsequently.
Ed, you definitely don’t need to take out the engine just because the oil is a little dirty. Microscopic metal particles in the oil is the result of normal wear, and the wear accelerates as the engine ages. I think you are just looking for an excuse to buy more shiny new tools …
I’d change the oil then - I mean really change it, not just top it up. If you don’t know what is in it or how many miles it has been in the engine, then it is a safe bet to get it done.
I reckon it’s soot saturation, or like you said, the separation of oil additive. The soot was suspended in the oil and now the soot has had two months to settle. You won’t need an engine flush or anything, just change the oil and I’m sure everything will be fine. If your car is low mileage and you really do think there are metal filings in the oil, then I would suggest getting the engine checked, but I can’t imagine that so many particles would be shaved off to discolor the oil if you are a low mileage user.
Just change the oil and monitor it - see what happens.
Aside from that, I can’t suggest anything else.
[quote=“monkey”][quote=“Ducked”]
I suppose I’d better drain the oil, and maybe drop the sump, (I don’t yet know if its an engine-out job on this car. Hope not.) and look for debris.
[/quote]
Ed, you definitely don’t need to take out the engine just because the oil is a little dirty. Microscopic metal particles in the oil is the result of normal wear, and the wear accelerates as the engine ages. I think you are just looking for an excuse to buy more shiny new tools …[/quote]
Heh. Taiwanette is (I hope) bringing me a torque wrench back from the UK. That took some arranging.
IIRC I’ve only ever removed the sump on a Lada (just needs the engine mountings loosened, and a bit of jacking the engine up ) and a Marina (straight unobstructed drop, and they say its the worst car ever made? Pah!). If its engine-out, which I believe is the “modern” norm, I won’t bother, (I’m not that worried about it) but if its no more trouble than a Lada I might.
I’ll take the rocker cover off first though. Havn’t fiddled with the tappets yet.
I know I’m splitting hairs on a dead horse here, but I’m not sure the description “the oil is a little dirty” exactly fits.
It looks very clean, but its apparently thrown a precipitate. That’s odd, in my limited experience. Maybe it’ll look muckier in bulk when I drain it.
Agreed on the oil-change, but I’m wondering what “getting the engine checked” would involve.
I suppose best case would be that an educated ear identifies a problem from the sound of the engine (or rather doesn’t, when it could if there was one).
Failing that, I guess a compression check, and maybe measuring the cam lobes, would give some indication of general condition, but aren’t likely to be specifically diagnostic.
If I was putting my money where my mouth is, best bang might be to send an oil sample for tribological analysis, but I doubt its worth it for a 15k car. Beyond that, it would seem a strip-down would be required, and I’m not doing that.
Call me cynical, but I suspect if I take this issue to Ah Huang he’ll look at the dipstick, wiping it on a rag fished out of the sand bucket, then he’ll maybe stick his gritty finger in the rocker cover, (optionally dropping the filler cap in the sand bucket) and then he’ll start the car.
Then he’ll try and sell me another car, regardless.
When a Taiwanette got her mechanic “uncle” to source me an exhaust fairly recently, she also got him to check the oil, well meant but annoying, not so much because of the implication that I can’t check my own oil, but because I didn’t trust him not to get grit in my engine.
Hmm…I hope it wasn’t that, but I guess I’ll never know.
[quote=“Ducked”]Cars been standing for a couple of months while I was back in the yook/yoorup.
Checking the oil before starting I noticed that one side of the dipstick was the reassuring honey-colour of clean oil, but the other was dark grey.
The tissue I wiped the dipstick on has a faintly yellow-gold damp patch that I associate with clean oil, but also a slate-grey “skidmark”,wiped off the dipstick, that looks metallic.
My model is that there were fine metallic wear particles suspended in the oil, and the long stand has allowed them to settle out. Since the dipstick is at an angle, (i.e. not vertical) it can have an upper and a lower side. I wasn’t paying enough attention to know if the upper side was the one with the sediment, though thats what I’d expect.
Is this reasonable? normal (on a very old car)? Havn’t seen it before, but I suppose this combination of circumstances might not have occured/been noticed.
I’d have thought suspended metal would visibly discolor the oil, but I suppose the oil film on a dipstick is rather thin.
I suppose I’d better drain the oil, and maybe drop the sump, (I don’t yet know if its an engine-out job on this car. Hope not.) and look for debris.
I suppose its just possible the dipstick is magnetised (good idea?), but if so I didn’t do it. I’ve got a compass somewhere I could test it with, though.
There was an intermittant tick when I first bought the car but it went away after I pissed about with water-cleaning the cylinders, so I was tempted to call it pre-ignition. Maybe something loose just got ground away and/or lodged somewhere.[/quote]
Much of the dark you see in oil is carbon from ring blow-by. If you check your oil regularly, then it is likely your dipstick is showing a separation of contaminants from the oil. If you don’t check it regularly though, then it could be simply that your dipstick hasn’t been wiped for a while and is naturally dirty. Just as a note, you should be using a good fully synthetic such as Mobil 1 or Agip. These are two that I can fully recommend for general use from a lot of experience.
You should also be using a good oil filter and not necessarily the cheapest one you can find in your local automotive shop.
If your engine is ticking sometimes, then it could be any number of things, but there are one or two common causes. If ticking, mainly on cold start up and then the sound becomes quieter after a minute or two, then it could be that you have worn lash adjuster seals. These can sometimes be replaced fairly simply, but it depends on the engine assembly type. Before replacing them however, check your engine oil level and consistency of the oil. Oil which is too thin can prevent the lash adjusters from jacking out under pressure and can be the root cause. Assuming the oil pump is in working order, then a proper oil level with the correct oil should keep the noise level down. If it doesn’t, then a lash-adjuster repair, or replacement is often necessary.
On many cars over 15 years of age then they used a manual method of valve adjustment and are likely to require maintenance from time to time, to keep the valve and rocker arm distance within tolerance.
Another cause of ticking can be a noisy fuel injector. A noisy injector doesn’t always mean it is faulty. Some car’s injectors are normally quite noisy. If an injector has only recently become noisy however, then it could be time for replacement. There are some shops which specialize in injector cleaning here in Taiwan, but you should always check the price of a new replacement first as many injectors can be cheaper to replace than clean.
A tip: Sniff your dipstick! You should be trying to sense signs of petrol contamination in the oil. If you have a strong whiff of petrol on your dipstick, then you are either practicing mainly cold stop-starts and aren’t running it up to temperature regularly enough, or your engine may be suffering too much piston blow-by, in which case, your engine is worn and may require refurbishing.
Thanks very much for your response Mr S. I think some of your points (detailed below) don’t apply in this particular (peculiar?) case, but that doesn’t mean they aren’t appreciated or valid, and they may make the thread more generally useful.
I check it regularly, and I don’t think there’s much doubt it was showing a separation of contaminants (or additives). My uncertainty is whether its normal/expected (in the unusual circumstance of a 2 month stand) or symptomatic of a problem.
Judging by the light colour, the contaminant load is fairly low. I’d expect soot to be of fairly neutral buoyancy in oil (just intuitively, I don’t know this for a fact) and I’ve had pretty black oil which hasn’t apparently sedimented out in this way, leading me to speculate that this contamination is metallic.
The ticking was an intermittant/random sharp tap. I’m pretty sure the engine has manually adjusted tappets not hydraulic (I’m guessing “lash adjuster seals” implies hydraulic tappets), so thats not applicable.
That said, I havn’t checked the tappet clearance, but they aren’t particularly noisy, and I’d expect manually (mis) adjusted tappet noise to be regular.
I suppose mis-adjusted tappets might wear a bit faster, so contribute a little more metal to the oil, but I dunno if its relevant. I will check the tappet clearance though.
My initial best guess for the noise was a final drive bearing breaking up and the gears occaisionally clouting a loose bearing roller or ball bearing. This wouldn’t, of course, contribute metal to the engine oil, which is a separate system on this car, but the engine oil was very clean at that time. I’d have drained the gearbox oil to look for debris if the sound hadn’t gone away.
Since it seemed to be the only way to post sounds, I took a digital video of the engine running, with a view to posting it for expert opinion on the sound, but the sound quality was too poor, plus I had some unresolved difficulty uploading to Youtube.
I later rigged a microphone in a pipe-probe (stethescope stylee) and recorded it using the Audacity freeware graphical sound analyser, annotating the screen display output, but hadn’t figured out a smart way to record the screen display/sound as a video.(The dumb way, of course, would be to point a camera at the screen. Should just have done that).
I might still have the file, but I lost a lot of stuff in a virus attack late last semester and the PC is still a bit stuffed (no sound, for example. Probably just needs the sound-card driver replaced).
The noise stopped after I attempted water-cleaning of the cylinders. It also stopped running-on when switched off. This made me think it might have been pre-ignition, but I don’t really know what pre-ignition sounds like.
If something was loose in the engine (rather than the gearbox) and that something got lodged/ground away, that might explain the noise stopping, and metal in the engine oil, but I’d expect coarse debris as well as fine particles, which would show up if I drop the sump. Perhaps its just normal wear.
Sure, but this car is carburretted.
Well, I havn’t explicitly sniffed it (I will, thanks for the suggestion), but I think I’d have noticed petrol contamination.
I mostly do fairly short trips, tis true, generally about 15-20k I’d guess, but enough to get the oil hot, I’d have thought. I would also have thought that the warm Taiwan climate wasn’t particularly hard on oil.
At its age excess blow-by would I suppose be expected, but the crankcase breather (goes in the oil filler cap) shows no sign of it.
EDIT:Mis-recollection/not so simple. Theres a narrow guage hose from the oil filler/trap cap that goes into the carb body, and may have a crankcase breather function, and/or it may be more subtle. Its clean. There’s loads of ancilliary hoses, gubbins and gizmos on the carb. The last time I tried to understand them, I got a headache, and my choke stopped working.
There’s a more conventional, wider bore hose that goes (unfiltered/trapped) from the rocker cover to the carb throat inside the air filter, and it shows some carbonaceous gunge, though it doesn’t seem excessive. ENDEDIT
I’ll have a better idea once I’ve taken the rocker cover off, but what I can see of the rocker-gear down the filler is pretty shiny.
[quote=“sulavaca”]Just as a note, you should be using a good fully synthetic such as Mobil 1 or Agip. These are two that I can fully recommend for general use from a lot of experience.
You should also be using a good oil filter and not necessarily the cheapest one you can find in your local automotive shop. [/quote]
I don’t know what’s in it. I believe it was dealer-serviced, and I wouldn’t be surprised if it was synthetic. As I said, it looks pretty clean.
I’m going to be a bit argumentative/OT here, and I know oil is an emotive/religious matter for petrol-heads, so apologies for any heresy. Skip it if you like.
I don’t doubt your recommendation is valid from an engineering point of view. I do have doubts about the economics.
I’d guess new cars come with synthetic and its the manufacturers recommendation, so people continue to use it when they’re out of warranty. Especially highly stressed engines / turbos aside, since most people buying new cars don’t keep them long enough for engine wear to be an issue, this seems altruistic. They are effectively spending money to preserve the car for subsequent owners. Would restore my faith in human nature, if I had any.
With very old cars like mine, you could argue that there isn’t much wear-life left, so it makes sense to spend extra money to preserve what there is (assuming you can get an appropriate weight of synthetic). Quite tempting mechanical sympathy-wise.
On the other hand, an oil change is going to be a significant proportion of, (or more than, in my case) the market value of the vehicle, and there’s a very good chance that a factor other than engine wear is going to kill the car, or, come to that, the owner. We all face built-in obsolescence.
I also think old cars probably tend to contaminate thier oil faster. I assume this means more frequent oil changes, even though viscosity etc are still fine, loosing some of the synthetic benefit. A supplementary bypass oil filter (eg Frantz) would tend to address this.
As it is, to date, for cars I buy the cheapest known-brand mineral oil I can find, which the last time was Castrol GTX 20-50. Previously I used Delvac 40W (In a Sierra) , which I still use for topping up, and I use that or CPC 40W in my motorcycle. I think straight oils make sense in motorcycles in Taiwan, and maybe in cars too.
If I had a bypass filter (eg Frantz), I’d buy fully synthetic oil. I may get (or just possibly make) one sometime.
We service quite a number of the Benz S class vehicles that commonly do the airport runs to and from Taipei. Its very clear to us indeed which of these engines run on Agip and which are filled with cheapo oil. We have far fewer issues, and much better reports of fuel economy with the vehicles on Agip. We do occasionally have to replace valve seals on S classes as they are a common issue, but those which run on Agip last roughly twice as long, and that’s a 10,000NT saving right there on one single job. Issues on Mercs run into countless pages, but it is certainly the case that two of the cars we service and which have both done at least 500,000km on the same engines without rebuilds are running much cleaner and have suffered very minimal carbon buildup when compared to others on dubious oil brands.
On a personal note, I always use the best oils available to me and also change them well before manufacturer’s recommendation times, and it is all for the benefit of myself, as I don’t wish to change my vehicle for as long as it runs, or unless I am moving abroad again, or run out of cash perhaps.
Many vehicle owners I feel don’t actually realize how long a car can last with good care and attention. It is my experience than 25 years average motoring for a decent Japanese car is well within minimum expectations. Why people think a ten year old car is necessarily “too old” I don’t know.
[quote=“sulavaca”]
It is my experience than 25 years average motoring for a decent Japanese car is well within minimum expectations. Why people think a ten year old car is necessarily “too old” I don’t know.[/quote]
I don’t either, but its a fact that they do (with the caveat that “think” may be an exaggeration), especially here.
Given that sad fact, for those people, who drive, in fact are, the market, the economics of buying the very best oil seem questionable.
I said at the outset that I didn’t doubt the technical/engineering argument. High-mileage vehicles like taxis, especially uber-expensive Merc taxis, sure, the best oil should be a no brainer. Likewise keeper-cars that you intend to bequeath to your grandchildren.
Whether its worth it for a “decent (? thats been rather pointedly disputed on here) Japanese (? designed. I think Skywings may have been made/assembled locally) car” thats already almost achieved 25 years motoring I’m not sure. Maybe it is. Maybe I will.
But I’d feel a lot better about it if I had a secondary bypass filter.
As an aside to the aside, its a little strange for an ancient Briton like myself to hear Castrol GTX described, by implication, as a “dubious oil brand”.
Back in the day, in the UK, it was the standard against which other oils were judged, including by at least some mechanics.
Assuming that wasn’t just the power of advertising, either the local stuff has been degraded, (so its absolutely crap) or its the same, but has been overtaken by progress in synthetics (so its relatively crap).
[quote=“Ducked”][quote=“sulavaca”]
It is my experience than 25 years average motoring for a decent Japanese car is well within minimum expectations. Why people think a ten year old car is necessarily “too old” I don’t know.[/quote]
I don’t either, but its a fact that they do (with the caveat that “think” may be an exaggeration), especially here.
Given that sad fact, for those people, who drive, in fact are, the market, the economics of buying the very best oil seem questionable.[/quote]
Well being part of the market myself, I prefer to purchase in cars which have only had the best maintenance. It is these cars that my customers are only interested in too, which is why I can find customers for my cars. So I guess good oil and good maintenance are good for business, and good for my customers who don’t wish to splash out needless money on a new motor.
I guess my point is that there are products for different needs. If it is the need of someone to run on cheepo oil and then dump their car after a few short years on either the used market, or the scrap heap, then so be it. That’s everyone’s prerogative. It’s all good for business, but not that great for our resources.
I inserted a rather old and weak telescopic magnetic pickup tool down the dipstick hole, and left it there for a few days. The car had previously sat for about a week, after a trip to Kenting, so possibly some stuff had already sedimented out of the oil.
The tool was in contact with something, probably the bottom of the sump.
On retrieval, the magnetic tip had a thin coating of fine slurry, which suggests that the sediment previously observed was probably ferrous metal.
I think a magnetic dipstick could be a quite useful provider of diagnostic information, especially if it could be left in place when the engine were running. I’ve only heard of them for motorcycles, though. I suppose there’s some risk of creating magnetised wear particles, which might be more damaging.
I’ll also look into magnetic drain plugs and magnetic filtration kits (which are commercially available, though perhaps not sold in Taiwan).
The others are preliminary punk versions of Radial Planar Chromatography, apparently an industry-recognised technique for qualitative monitoring the condition of used oil, brake fluid, etc outlined here, but without a full description of the method:-
In particular, the TLC medium (thin layer chromatography) is not specified, but the method appears to be quite simple(It doesn’t use any solvent elution, for example.)
A DIY version is sold by these people, (who also do a not very good, IMHO, magnetic oil filter device.)
with a chart comparing oils at varying stages of degradation. There is no solvent elution. The medium isn’t specified here either, probably for commercial reasons, but I thought it quite likely that it wasn’t a TLC medium, and might just be filter paper.
Out of curiosity, I did a spot-test on Advantec Qualitative Filter Paper, and another on printer paper (probably “Paper One Premium Laser Copier”, 70g/m sq., though I didn’t take it straight out of the wrapper). The oil was cold, the engine not having run for 10 days, but there is the possibility of some disturbance due to the prior removal of the magnetic pickup tool above. The dipstick was held above the paper until a single drop fell off (slightly different to the “OneDrop” method, which touches). The oil was then left to spread for two days, and photographed.
These photos aren’t very clear (borrowed camera with the wrong lens), but there is a suggestion of a separation into a central darker (debris?) field with outer light brown and clear zones. These were clearer with the eye, and since the pictures were taken the spots have spread further and the central zone has formed a black ring. I suspect this ring is metallic and/or carbon particles.
The ring is more pronounced with (stirred up?) oil from a recently run engine, but, since this is thinner, the droplet had to be touched twice onto the medium to transfer a similar amount of oil.
While firm conclusions aren’t possible, the appearance is closest to the non-degraded oil sample in the “reference” pictures, but with more debris.
EDIT: Actually, on a second look, I’d say it looks most like the “Good” reference pic of gearbox oil, perhaps because this engine is putting more than the expected amount of metallic debris into the oil, so is behaving more like a gearbox. ENDEDIT.
I’ll see if I can get access to a decent microscope.
I wouldn’t have thought this would work very well, since my understanding was that this stuff was for tapered threads (which these aren’t?) , and the seal here is provided by a (crushable, usually copper) washer. OTOH it wasn’t leaking so I suppose the tape didn’t do any harm. OTOOH, if tape fragments got into the sump, they might well block oilways.
The washer here is apparently aluminium, and appears undamaged. I’ll put a smear of RTV silicon on it (if it hasn’t gone off) before replacement.
I daresay a lot more ferrous sludge washed off the plug during removal, but there werent any big ferrous fragments stuck to it.
There were a few bits in the mesh filter of my funnel when I decanted the waste oil, but only a couple of them were weakly magnetic. I’d guess they might be a concretion of varnish (evident in the rocker compartment) and small ferrous wear particles.
I have to wonder if these plugs are such a great idea, though.
The wear particles on the tip were definately magnetised, since some could be removed by touching it with a paperclip, on which they adopted the characteristic “whiskery” appearance.
If these magnetised particles get dislodged from the plug by turbulence in the sump, they’ll tend to stick to other ferrous surfaces (eg crankshaft journals) , and probably won’t be removed by an oil drain. This might cause accelerated wear, and might be why these plugs aren’t (AFAIK) fitted as OEM.
I’d say magnetic “filtration” is more likely to be a good thing if its fitted somewhere it can be regularly cleaned (to reduce particle magnetisation due to long residence) as on the dipstick, and/or where its upstream of a physical filter (which might retain the magnetised particles), as with a spin-on canister jacket.
[quote=“Ducked”]I have to wonder if these plugs are such a great idea, though.
The wear particles on the tip were definately magnetised, since some could be removed by touching it with a paperclip, on which they adopted the characteristic “whiskery” appearance.
If these magnetised particles get dislodged from the plug by turbulence in the sump, they’ll tend to stick to other ferrous surfaces (eg crankshaft journals) , and probably won’t be removed by an oil drain. This might cause accelerated wear, and might be why these plugs aren’t (AFAIK) fitted as OEM.[/quote]
Actually quite a number of vehicles are fitted with these at the factory. There is no reason to believe they would become dislodged from the magnet.
Didn’t know that, though I’d heard they were standard on big commercials and on the Mini. The latter’s a different situation of course, since it has/had the deeply dodgy unitary engine/gearbox sump.
On reflection my attempt to draw conclusions on best practice from what manufacturers do was rather obviously naive, since extended engine life is often of no particular interest to them.
Are there good reasons to believe they would not?
Some of the “whiskers” will form at rest, when the oil is not moving much, and will consequently be quite fragile, and composed of very small particles which are harder to trap magnetically, and are not trapped significantly in turbulent oil.
It could be that, once its trapped, it stays that way, but it seems to me that, especially if there’s a lot of ferrous sludge (which probably describes my oil before the oil change) then either the magnetic plug has to have a rather high capacity, or some of it is probably going to wash off.
I don’t of course know if this is going to be problematic, and if anyone else does, AFAIK they’re keeping quiet about it.
I find magnetic filtration an attractive idea, and magnetic drain plugs, (though perhaps useful and probably the most widely deployed) the least convincing automative application of it.
not hydraulic 
(I’m guessing “lash adjuster seals” implies hydraulic tappets), so thats not applicable.
