Folding bike or regular

Okay, it’s time to get a bicycle. I’ll be riding mainly on roads and paved trails, for recreation and short distances, at least for the time being. Trouble is, there are too many choices. Should I pay extra for a great-quality bike or should I save my money and get an RT Mart special until I know for sure whether I’ll enjoy it? Experiences? Suggestions? Also, should I get a folding bike or a “regular” one? I know that some weight and performance is sacrificed in folding bikes; does the convenience make up for this?

Please share any ideas, suggestions and experiences. I am CLUELESS! :astonished:

I own several folders and have ridden all the quality folders, including Moulton, Birdie, Airnimal, Bike Friday, etc. I’ve also ridden the cheap crap, seen the maintube hinge break, the bottom bracket disintegrate, scary stuff. My reccie is to start with a used Dahon, maybe from ruten. The RT Mart stuff might turn you off because of ride feel, component quality, frame quality. If you like the used Dahon, buy a better used or new Dahon. Though Dahon is known for proprietary parts on some models, unless you’re a builder or modder, the Dahon-specific bits won’t make much difference. The river bike paths in Taipei would be very nice on a 20" wheel (ISO 406) folder. My Taipei folder is a heavily modded Dahon Cadenza.

Buy a basic MTB from Giant - the models Boulder and Yukon can be had for NT$7K and NT$9K respectively. Get the store to swap the tires for slicks (road tires) and possibly the suspension fork for a straight for and you’ll be good to go.

… unless she wants a folder.

[edited for gender]

I’d say definitely go 2nd hand - plenty of decent bikes around and you can upgrade as your interest develops.

Folding V Fixed is a toughie. If you want to get on the Subway then folding is a huge plus. For sheer riding pleasure I would go with a fixed frame - its a confidence thing. Again a lot depends on your riding style - I like to bump up and down kerbs and ride on the bumpy bits sometimes but some people are real gentle riders.

Good luck either way there are some great trails in Taipei.

just avoid any kind of RT Mart special. you certainly will not enjoy cycling on one of them. They’re cheap, but for a reason.

and I know many people say that you should get a mountain bike, but for flat path riding, they’re complete overkill: cheap ones are way too heavy, and there is really no need for suspension unless you regularly hit rough rocky tracks at speed. just get a flat bar road bike, something like this:

comes with more gears than you need, easy riding position, and much lighter than a MTB at the same price point. Some come with fewer gears than the one shown, which has three chain rings at the front by the pedals, giving you a choice of three gear ranges… unless you plan on climbing hills, and in Taipei eventually you should plan on that, then a triple gear on the front is pointless. for river side riding, you can get away with only a single chain ring at the front: easier maintenance and lighter.

no need for carbon frame or components, but make sure you get something that does not have steel wheels or components, as they rust super fast in Taiwan. Aluminium is the preferred frame, rim, and component material, and you’ll be looking at cheaper Shimano or Microshift gears and brakes. remember to lube the chain monthly or after riding in the rain, and you will greatly extend the life of the components. Use something like FinishLine chain lube that you can buy at almost any bike store.

folding bikes are also fine for path riding, but cheaper ones are also heavy and may not be great quality. They offer significant advantages of portability, such as sticking them in a small car, or popping them in a bag and carrying them on the MRT at any station. You can carry a full size bike on the MRT at some stations, outside rush-hours, and I can usually cram a bike into most cars if I take the wheels off, even my RX7, so that’s less of an issue than people make out. Also, bear in mind that the smaller the wheels, the more unstable the bike. even a small stone can upset a folder with very small wheels, and they tend to steer very fast… which can be frightening without experience.

the two most important components on any bike ride should also be a helmet and a pair of gloves. trust me on that one: picking bits of gravel out of your scalp or the palms of your hands is not fun, and you will undoubtedly get to experience that one day given the chaotic nature of traffic on the bike paths sometimes.

What urodacus said.

There was a folding bike club that started out of my neighborhood about eight months ago. I ran into a few of the members last week and they were all on standard bikes. They told me they still ride their folding bikes to the 7-11 and with their kids and so on, but not anywhere else.

There is one guy though who is mighty glad that there are folding bikes. I see him now and then. He’s four feet tall–if that, and he can climb like a Mo-Fo. I’ve watched him race past standard height riders and embarrass the hell out of 'em when they realize they are unable to outclimb him.

So, unless you’re vertically challenged, I would go with urdacus’ advice.

Thanks, guys! This input has given me a lot to think about!

So far, I think a non-folding bike sounds good. (I’m not in Taipei). I’ll go with a good quality, secondhand one; I don’t want to sacrifice function and end up hating it, but I also don’t want to spend a million bucks!

What kind of handlebars are the most comfortable for cycling? I used to have a very low-end MTB (in Canada) and a really, really low end old-style ladies’ bike (less than 2K at Carrefour, two gears, seven years ago, in TW). While the MTB was a better overall ride, the cheapo was comfortable and I sat in a more upright position. That being said, I rode the MTB on Alberta hills and the cheapo in Puzi, possibly the flattest town in all of Taiwan.

Not to be rude, Maunaloa, but I’m a “she”!

If you’re not going to be doing a lot of riding, then a flat bar is ok. If it gets windy where you ride, or if you’re going to go on longer rides, I’d recommend a drop bar.

If you’re not going to ride trails then I strongly suggest you do not get a mountain bike: they are slow and heavy. As Urodacus said, get a flat bar road bike. You can ride faster and further with much less effort. The thinner the tires and the lighter the frame the bigger the smile will be on your face.

The end.

Okay, so far I’m getting a non-folding non-MTB (I’ll mostly be riding paved areas).

What are the advantages to drop versus flat handlebars? Are there good quality bikes with drop handlebars out there? (Haven’t actually gone shopping yet…) Will too many gears be an incumberance?

drop bars will be found on most of the more expensive bikes, as they’re best for going faster as you keep down out of the wind… But we’re talking 2-300,000 NTD here, and that’s not at all what you want! unless you ride for more than an hour drop bars are more of a chore to get used to, and many feel uncomfortable crouched over until they’re much more experienced. Plus, changing gears and braking are harder on the hands until you get stronger hands. Flat bar bikes are much more usable for a novice rider, though they do lack to ability to change hand positions one gets with drop bars, handy for long rides so you get less tired in the hands and shoulders.

the kind of gear change levers that one finds on a MTB will also be found on flat bar road bikes (though not necessarily interchangeable due to differences in the mechanics of the gear change devices themselves). They are much easier to come to grips with than the modern combined brake/gear changers found on drop bar bikes. you can always get a different set up later, but it’s usually as expensive to swap handlebars etc as it is to buy a complete new bike, package deals being what they are.

as for the number of gears, some get by with one gear ratio only, and have no expensive and mechanically fiddly gear changers to worry about. these are called single speed bikes, for obvious reasons. a single speed bike with no ability to coast (tricky to ride at first, and originally restricted to the track though they are becoming fashionable as city bikes) are called fixed gear bikes, often with no brakes (you slow by controlling the rotation of your legs).

However, by far the majority of road and mountain bikes now come with multiple gears, and common flat bar bike combinations are 9 or 10 in the back, and 2 or sometimes 3 in the front… multiply the front number by the back number to get the final number of separate gears you can pedal in. usually 18 or 20, or 27 or 30. some of the front/back gear combinations actually overlap, so there is less variation than it seems.

got hills? got weak legs or tire fast? get three rings in the front. never have any intention of climbing hills, or have lots of power? get two rings. The actual gear ratios can be finetuned a bit by changing the group of gears on the rear wheel, known as the cassette. most people have little need for a 53 tooth front/11 tooth rear combination, as they have no interest in riding at 70 kmh, so lower ratios are more useful, especially for going uphill.

you can find a reasonable bike for about 500USD or better still a second hand one, if possible. bikes tend to lose maybe half their value in a couple of years, but a two year old bike is usually just as good as it was when it was new. Unlike computers that get out-dated fast, there isn’t really a downside to an older bike except parts availability. my favourite bike is 25 years old, and has only one gear. Perfect for the city, and I’d ride maybe 100 km on it per week.

I’ve noticed more women actually down on drop bars than men, among rec riders. I’m told by women riders it’s just as comfortable as sitting up. Not true for men. Aiyo.

Okay, just to prove my ignorance (in case there was any doubt), I thought that drop handlebars were the bars on utility-style bikes, but they’re the curly racing ones. I guess you guys already know that… :blush:

So what’s the general opinion on utility bikes? Too heavy? Not enough gears? Not enough leverage for hills etc? Are they available in high quality models? I’m looking around and I really like this one. I know, I’m a dork! It doesn’t seem to have any gears, though.

Or should I just forget about that and stick with a road-style bike?

That’s a good-looking bike for a city utility bike, but it’s very heavy. you would not enjoy going up hill on that at all. light bikes weigh about 7 kg, half the weight of that one.

The gear change twister on the right hand shows it will have three or maybe five gears or so, with the mechanism buried inside the rear hub, so there will be some ability to change pedalling difficulty, but it won’t be suitable for anything other than mostly flat terrain. the brakes are a weak design, and will flex and squeal if you’re going fast. Also, they may actually be steel rather than aluminium so they will rust fast unless cleaned and oiled regularly (don’t oil the pads, though).

advantages are the covered chain and the full fenders, so you don’t get dirty clothes, the low bar so you can ride in a skirt, the bag rack on the front, and the stand. disadvantages are the riding position for anything other than granny-speed, the very heavy weight, the lower quality components, and the likelihood that it will rust fast…

it will be easy to ride slow and hard to ride fast. depends what you’re interested in. for cruising along flat roads, doing shopping and stuff or carrying something for a picnic, it’s fine. Millions of Dutch and other Europeans ride similar bikes all the time, using them instead of cars.

I just noticed the weight, and you’ve got a point; I won’t be doing any cross-country cycling, but there will be some hills and rolling terrain involved.

I don’t wear a lot of skirts or dresses, especially when cycling, but I like the chain guard and the fenders, as you said. Rust is DEFINITELY a consideration with the humidity and the ocean breezes where I live.

I understand what you’re saying about the riding speed and the quality of the components; I guess this one’s out. I don’t mind leaning forward to cycle, but I like for my handlebars to be higher than my seat without having to touch the ground flat-footed; I like the balls of my feet to touch the ground on either side when I ride, unlike many Taiwanese. (Is this an incorrect riding position? I just find it makes it easier to see what’s happening around me; please let me know if this compromises anything.)

I normally ride slowly and leisurely, but if I’m doing any group riding, I’ll need to be able to keep up.

Urodacus, you are awesome. Thanks so much for all your input; I’m learning so much right now, and you’re so patient and willing to explain. Thank you, thank you, thank you! :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:

Does anyone know of an online site in English (for TW) where secondhand bikes are being sold? I know, it’s idealistic at best…

Don’t buy a cheap one, just buy 2nd hand decent bike that you can sell later without loosing too much value or buy cheap models of Merida or Giant. They have guarantee and service everywhere. Be aware that most folding bikes will have a frame that will move at their hinges.
I had a dahon which broke at its welding point. They improved the design but still have some problems

If you are going to get a second hand bike, just be careful to get the right size.

One downside of buying second hand, particularly if you are a first timer, is that you won’t be able to use advice from the bike shop to get a properly fitting bike. Not all bike shop sales people can give good advice, but you are much less likely to get the advice from an owner who wants to offload a relatively cheap bike.

It can be quite tempting to get a 2nd hand bike that is “about” the right size because its specifications are excellent for the price you pay. That’s a big mistake - don’t settle for “about”, make sure the bike fits. The only way you can tell for sure is to take ride the bike around the block a few times and ideally up a small hill if there is one. The important thing to check is that you don’t feel too stretched out or too cramped up. If you’re not OK after a short ride, you will be in real pain after any longish ride and will never use the bike again. If you are OK after a short ride, then you may still get pains after a long ride but it is more likely that you can get things fixed by changing some components such as the stem or saddle.

Try going to the seller’s home and doing a test ride there. You can ask them to come with you during the test ride. Try to avoid giving any personal documents as collateral - if they insist on a passport or ARC make sure you swap it for their ID as well. Don’t buy a bike if they won’t allow you to visit their home or they won’t swap IDs - it might be a stolen bike and you certainly don’t want to leave your passport or ARC with thieves.

And if you feel that the bike is stolen - walk away.

If you are absolutely sure it is stolen, try to apply thumbscrews to the thieves’ hands, slice their genitals with a rusty penknife and apply salt liberally to their wounds. Hold their eyes open while you squirt lemon juice into them. Hold a magnifying glass over their nipples on a sunny day. Force them to stand facing the corner of the room during their lunch break.

:roflmao:

Excellent thread! I am in the same boat as the OP- looking to upgrade and not sure which way to go. I will certainly follow the advice given here (used road bike, fixed bar, no steel components). Thanks all. :thumbsup:
It seems that road bikes and mountain bikes are measured differently for frame size. Fortunately, road bikes seem to use metric and mountain bikes use imperial, lessening the chance of mixing them up. I have read some complicated articles on sizing, but this one summed it up simply:
bicycling.about.com/od/howtoride … sizing.htm
I am super short (<155cm) but with (comparatively) long legs (inseam >72cm), so I guess I’ll use the inseam for sizing - it makes a difference of two frames sizes up - wow. Of course, I’ll follow advice given here and try it out for fit and comfort riding first (if possible - not sure how well that will go over with some sellers, but will try with my winning smile and, uh, grace).

When I was thinking about getting a mountain bike, the shop guys suggested a 14" or 15" frame (I felt like I was riding a little kid’s bike!) , but I felt more comfortable on a 17" frame. Something around 16" would probably have been perfect, but none. Besides, this thread has shifted my shopping focus completely.