try a paint store… you know the ones that carries paint.
Problem is veg oil isn’t really supposed to polymerize so if it does it doesn’t stay that way. Even linseed oil is going to be much better because it polymerizes and stays that way.
Re “Problem is veg oil isn’t really supposed to polymerize so if it does it doesn’t stay that way.”
You know this how?
(There is no “supposed to” unless vegetable oil behaviour is part of your religion. It does what it does, and it certainly polymerises.)
I wouldn’t have known it would liquify if I hadn’t observed it, since I’ve never heard of it, and I was quite surprised.
The stuff binding aluminium on the car body, brake drums etc has been on there for about 7 years. Looks solid.
Linseed oil is vegetable oil. Probably can’t get it here but you can get tung oil, which is vegetable oil too.
Re “Try a paint store… you know the ones that carries paint.”, and resisting the short answer, I’ll bet you all the linseed oil you can drink that if I go into a random “paint store… you know the ones that carries paint.” and ask for heat resistant engine paint, and they somehow understand me, they will then furnish me with the M word. Again.
Don’t need that, but fortunately I don’t think I need heat resistant engine paint either, since I don’t think the intake side gets very hot
An alkyd resin would probably be favorite, so all I need is an alkyd resin store…you know the ones that carries alkyd resin
Only I don’t
And I bet they don’t either.
I re-did the points gap with the points arm on the peak of the cam, (which I suspect I didn’t get right last time. Awkward because it faces backward, and I had an audience), set the static timing with a test light, then set the dynamic timing with a timing light, advancing it about 3 degrees from the mark.
Better but not great. Thought it might be worth checking the inlet manifold vacuum at idle, though I don’t offhand know what it should be, There’s a capped port on the inlet manifold which I assume is for such diagnostic use. Last used it checking (as recommended) for exhaust blockage, but I couldn’t interpret the results.
The cap was missing. Thinks: “That’d be a vacuum leak, then”
The wee red plastic pips you get on the sharp end of wire-green-plastic-coated-hangars are a perfect fit.
(Vacuum was about 510 mm/20 ins Hg. According to
that’s in the “normal” range)
Now running nicely almost all the time but with very infrequent hesitation under acceleration.
Emery paper/cloth https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emery_paper, stone, file (will likely damage it but will work a few times I would guess).
Cleaning with aluminium? Aluminium oxide is non conductive. I would avoid.
All grit must be removed as it is non-conductive also. Paper towel with some liquid, water and detergent, wd40, petrol, almost anything.
I found these:
" Ya really can’t effectively file points anymore.
Once upon a time, points were made of a solid metal, (tungsten?)
and when they burned, you file them flat and square for the next couple of tune-ups, then you replaced them.
For the last 20 years or so, points are just chrome plated shit metal and when they burn, you replace them.
Which is the MAJOR reason I like to use an ignition booster by Dyna on my points equipped BMW bikes.
No load on the points, no arcing, no burning."
“I always used the strike strip off a match box.”
Aluminium oxide does appear to be non-conductive. I looked it up.
However, it doesn’t seem to be a problem for aluminium welding cables, which exist, mostly because they are less likely to get knicked than copper ones.
It’d be very difficult (though perhaps not impossible) to exclude oxygen from connector interfaces, which might then become non-conductive and get bloody hot, yet they don’t.
In practice, rubbing with foil seems to have worked on these contacts. Perhaps any residual aluminium oxide simply disperses, but I used contact cleaner on a cotton bud, then a paper tissue, so there shouldn’t have been much.
I have a Maplin’s “Ignition Booster” kit, bought in the UK before they went bust (Maplins, not the UK, so far, just), but I’ll need to improve my poor soldering technique a bit more before I try and build it.