Seems to be a sticky piston. I took the piston, barrel and lower head out as a unit for now since I don’t have a piston ring compressor and I don’t remember the improvisations for one working very well on an 1800 Marina,
The head is a three-plate “sandwich” containing the reed valves. The lower plate is pretty firm in the barrel and I may not bother trying to take that out.
Free of the piston, the motor seemed to run OK. The small end on the piston is pretty stiff, the oil looks dark and sticky and there doesnt seem to be very much of it, though the dipstick looked ok. No obvious signs of excessive wear on the big end or its journal though
That vane thing on the bottom of the big end bothers me though, partly because I don’t know what its for (oil fling? retaining spring?) partly because I cant remember which side it was on,
Maybe they use magnesium for the anodes on aluminium hulls?
I remember seeing a reference to anodes on the Sea Harrier, which surprised me since cathodic protection isn’t generally supposed to work in air, but maybe it’d be partly effective during a carrier deck sea spray soaking.
Those might have been magnesium. If so, you just have to find a scrap Sea Harrier. Simple.
I suspect -
10W - relative viscosity at LowC (40?)
30 - relative viscosity at 100C
as the viscosity of a straight 10
10W30 is still thicker when cold than when hot.
It has the viscosity of a straight 10 at LowC and the viscosity of a straight 30 when at 100C. I guess the effect will be non-linear, however https://wiki.anton-paar.com/uk-en/viscosity-index/ in a sketch curve disagrees.
If the oil is thin when cold e.g. a 10W multigrade it may run off surfaces when standing leading to earlier corrosion.
You can possibly find out more here for $83US?
Some charts here https://wiki.anton-paar.com/uk-en/engine-oil/
That detail oil viscosity at various temperatures that may allow you to choose a multigrade close to SAE30 over the operating (Including STORAGE) temp range you wish.
R32 and R60 are REFRIGERANTS and not compressor lubricants.
It’s a different classification but some oils in Taiwan has R prefix. But there are oils specifically designed for air compressors. Hardware store and gas station sells them. There’s no point playing guessing games with them.
Discussion on this stuff, though compressors are only mentioned in passing.
Failing that I’ll use 15W40, because I have a lot of it, though I do have a use for that, since I have used it in my car in a 1:1 blend with straight 40.
(Apologies for the “wall of text” effect. Old posts lose spacing on there, probably a cheapskate space-saving algorithm)
Seems to have worked OK, but at the moment I’m using a 1:1 blend of very old Mobil Special 20W50 with straight 40.
The non-detergent thing may be to avoid emulsifying with water, but I’d think that could be addressed by oil changes, and some initial cleaning seems like a good idea.
Right now I’m waiting for a reply to a query to the manufacturer about the ring orientation. Don’t really expect one but I’m in no particular hurry.
Got someone in the office to send the maker (Fusheng Machinery) a Chinese translation of my original email and got a reply!
I’m told its esseentially “We know nothing, but we can send an engineer” Unclear, but I assume they’d charge for that, and also unclear why I’d want one of their engineers if they know nothing.
They dont make this machine any more and have moved up market, a Taiwan success story.
Big industrial compressors are expensive and can last a long time. I wouldn’t chose to buy one from a company that can’t remember how to make a small one.
My neighbor wanted to sell his old compressor (he had upgraded to a screw compressor) for 5000nt. It’s a 7HP compressor, in a soundproof box. Still kinda loud but I didn’t have 5000nt on me, not to mention the equipment had numerous issues and you’d have to spend a lot of time (in Taiwan heat) to figure out what’s wrong every time something goes wrong (which it does every other week). He put R16 oil in it (which the compressor repair guy says not to do) and I suspect this is probably why it acts up all the time. But the compressor was run pretty hard and more or less continuously which is not really good for them with not much maintenance done on it. I really just need about 20 CFM anyways to run air sander. I’m still sharing air with them but it’s annoying that I can’t run air sander at night when it’s cool since he shuts the air at night.
For small job site compressors they really don’t care that much about it. They cost maybe 3000nt to replace so when they go, they go to the junkyard. Not to mention they won’t run much aside from a nail gun. I need to spray paint, and run air tools.
The good thing is screw compressors are really quiet. It also doesn’t add as much water to the air as normal ones.
Mostly I’d hope to use it for tyre inflation, since my “classic” Decathlon 300 bicycle pump, the cheapest they sold and the only one (of many) I’ve tried in Taiwn that works worth a damn, (cheap and effective? can’t have that) is no longer available and isn’t going to last for ever keeping car tyres inflated.
I should probably have some kind of oil filter to stop oil getting into the tyres, but I suppose if it held pressure I could shut the pump off for a while before inflation, so most of it settled out.
Also blowing out dirt. For example, the Honda Accord has a CEL code 80, insufficient EGR flow. A compressor might be useful when cleaning something like that out.
I have “shop air”. Now I just need a shop. Or a shed, though “shed air” doesn’t seem to be a thing.
I don’t have much air though. It builds pressure very slowly, so slowly that I assumed the guage was faulty, and started to get nervous about explosions, since I don’t know that the pressure switch works.
Its got a substantial leak from the cylinder outlet fitting, which looks like it needs a new compression fitting olive. Soapy water didn’t find any others but the suction doesn’t seem very strong either.
