Kaohsiung: the lay of the land

[quote=“plotch”]Thanks again,
That all sounds very appealing, and might make for some good weekend daytrips. I guess that, with the combined factors of traffic and distance, none of thes places are close enough for an after-work early evening trip?
I’m scanning my crap map again, and to the south of Sandimen amd Majia, to the east of Pingdong in Pingdong County, theres’ a large empty green area, whith nothing but a couple of rivers: nearest towns are Taiwu and Laiyi to the west. What’s this area like? anything there to see/explore?
How about the coastline in the Kaohsiung area? Or are places like the Gaoping river estuary and Dapeng national scenic area too shitty-gritty to mention?[/quote]

Taiwu and Laiyi are aboriginal villages in the foothills. The empty areas you are seeing is banana country (flat, scrubby, and hot) althouugh there are some of Taiwan’s best-preserved Hakka villages are out there too. Taiwu and Laiyi are the mouths of river valleys and there are systems of old abandoned logging roads that you will enjoy on a mountain bike or motorcycle. You’ll definietly feel like you are out of the city here! Driving north up the small highway that hugs the mountains here is a real treat. It eventually will take you up to the southern cross highway where you will find spectacular mountain scenery and many of those hairy he-man yomps sandie was decribing.

Personally, I think you are going to be living in Taiwan second-best outdoor playground area (the best being the east coast between Taidong and Hualien). The weather is great down there, and you’ve got the mountains and the sea all within striking distance.

The city of Kaohsiuung may be a bit of challenge. It’s a big industrial town that has fallen on hard times since all the traditional industries have moved to China. The rather silly city government’s solution is to constantly build museums that none of Kaohsiung’s working class citizens seem much interested in possibly because there is nothing in them.

I personally see a lot of charm in gritty old Kaohsiung–the people are very friendly and there are lots of interesting nooks and crannies if you hunt around. Oh, and the betel nut girls are to die for.

Other people hate the place because it isn’t stuffed with poncy lounge bars and over-priced, over-rated foreign restaurants like Taipei. Each to his own, I say.

I’ll try to post an essay about Kaohsiung a friend wrote. You might enjoy it.

This appeared in Topic Magazine a few months ago. Enjoy.

The Kaohsiung Junket
By Lucien Crowder

Stumbling off the hazy tarmac at Kaohsiung International Airport are a dozen bleary-eyed members of the Taipei Foreign Correspondents Club. Some of these correspondents are not actually foreign, and most of the rest are not in fact correspondents. They are nonetheless a species of journalist, and their professional pride is affronted by the early hour. Their moods are foul, their hangovers intense, their halitosis unrepentant. You wouldn

Thanks F, for that nice little piece of Gonzo journalism and the many links, and thanks to everyone for your replies. I like the idea of mountain bike adventures on the dirt roads near Taiwau so close to where I’ll be living. I’m really going to miss the fantastic road biking here in East Anglia, though. I’ll grow some hair for the hairy-legged yomps in the hills, and 10,000 hectares of parkland to the north of Kaohsiung is a lot of space to explore…I think I’m gonna survive. Though according to that essay, I guess I won’t be doing the backstroke in the Love River anytime soon, or eating the three-headed fish that reside therein! As long as I can reach some kind of understanding with the “Newark of Asia”, then everything should be fine.

If you’re a mountain biker, contact the guys at:

www.formosanfattire.com

Are there any good vegetarian restaurants in Kaohsiung?
It looks like the Subway sandwiches by the train station went out of business.

By “good vegetarian” I mean:

  1. It’s not too tasty, which usually means some unhealthy additives
  2. They offer brown rice (胚芽飯) or red rice (五穀飯) Yum! Yum!