Motorcycle trip - Central Cross Island conditions?

Got next week off, weather’s looking… not too bad. Thinking bout motorcycling down to do the Cross Island Highway as I’ve lived here for over 2 years and never done that particular exploration.

Is the highway open? Can’t seem to (easily) find info here or on the web. Figured I’d see if anyone’s been over that way recently.

Also, any advice? I plan on camping my way around. I’ll leave Taipei next Tuesday morning / Wednesday night and return Sunday evening. Is that enough time? should I consider another closer trip?

the only cross island connection in the centre goes via Puli to HeHuanShan (DaYuLing) and then down Taroko Gorge to Hualien.

the road that used to be the central cross island highway has been blocked by landslides removing the road entirely in places, and has not been repaired as of six months ago. you may be able to get through on a mountain bike with lots of carrying across washouts and slips, which I am interested in trying in spring.

it should be enough time if you don’t stop much along the way.

I was over the road the stingerman mentions last May. It would be a nice ride on a bike but its steep and narrow in places. Utterly stunning, though, especially the run from Hehuanshan down through Dayuling to Taroko. Not one you’ll forget in a hurry.

I should also add that that route takes you over the highest road in Taiwan, about 3400m. It will be cold, and usually rains, so expect 5 degrees and lots of wind chill. also, can your bike breathe well at that altitude? the road surface condition is shocking, so do not take corners there at any speed, as you are liable to collect a rock or a pothole on the exit, or even more fun, a large truck coming the other way at way past the safe speed needed.

if the weather is good, it is absolutely stunning.

[quote=“vim”]Got next week off, weather’s looking… not too bad. Thinking bout motorcycling down to do the Cross Island Highway as I’ve lived here for over 2 years and never done that particular exploration.

Is the highway open? Can’t seem to (easily) find info here or on the web. Figured I’d see if anyone’s been over that way recently.

Also, any advice? I plan on camping my way around. I’ll leave Taipei next Tuesday morning / Wednesday night and return Sunday evening. Is that enough time? should I consider another closer trip?[/quote]As Urodacus says, it’s the “New Central Cross-Island” route that you’ll be doing. I’ve done it a few times.

Some thoughts:

You’ve got enough time. If you can go on Tuesday morning instead of Wednesday night, that will be better as it’s such a beautiful route you’ll want to take time to appreciate it. But even if you have to go on Wednesday night, it’s still doable.

Normally I’d suggest you go down the west side first (Provincial Highway No. 3 would make sense as quite a nice route and fairly direct to where you’re going). But as you’re starting midweek, maybe it would be better to go down the more scenic east first as there will be far less tourist traffic then and you can make the most of it. Then you’ll come up the west side at the weekend which will be a bit of a slog but doesn’t matter so much.

I’d get a map if I were you. At the minimum, one of those fold-out single-sheet ones with the Romanized names on. But it would probably help if you can cope with a single-volume book form map too. The latter don’t have any Romanization, but it’s not actually that hard to start reading the Chinese place names, even if you don’t read any Chinese already.

The weather up on Hehuanshan (the highest point) is often clear in the morning and foggy/rainy/cold in the afternoon. So it would make sense to get up there as early as possible. Maybe you can stay in Tianxiang (the main village in Taroko Gorge) the night before, then make an early start up the mountain.

As Urodacus implies, your motorbike may well have problems breathing on the high mountain. Both my FZ and my SR used to lose power above around 2,500m. Up at the top it was really slow going and it was a bit tricky to keep the engine running. But both bikes made it OK, even with a passenger and luggage.

Of course your motorbike should be in very good mechanical condition before you start the trip.

How about something like this for an itinerary?
Taipei – Su’ao or thereabouts – Tianxiang – Wushe or Puli – Miaoli County somewhere – Taipei

[quote=“urodacus”]the only cross island connection in the centre goes via Puli to HeHuanShan (DaYuLing) and then down Taroko Gorge to Hualian.

the road that used to be the central cross island highway has been blocked by landslides removing the road entirely in places, and has not been repaired as of six months ago. you may be able to get through on a mountain bike with lots of carrying across washouts and slips, which I am interested in trying in spring.
[/quote]

Do you mean the old CCIH from Guguan to Deji? That will never be repaired. The gov decided it wasn’t worth it a few years ago.

Haven’t heard of anyone doing it on a bike. They talked briefly about turning it into a path but consider it too unstable at the moment. Not sure if they have blockades but you might get fined if you try to cross.

Oh, btw, the New Central Cross Island Hwy actually starts in Chiayi and heads over to Alishan then through Tatajia, Yushan and up to Dongpu, then Shueili, Puli and across to Hehuanshan and down to Taroko.

So basically the 18, 21, 24, and 8. I don’t know if they will rename it at some point though it would be good for visitors driving. That’s one hell of a beautiful route.

Another idea is to turn from Dayuling to Lishan, and from there up the valley toward Ilan. Before Ilan you can join the northern cross-island and head over to the back side of Taoyuan, and back to Taipei. It’s all good.

I’m with Redwagon here…The west side of the 8 heading back toward Puli is a traffic infested, overbuilt, tour bus mess. The east side, from Dayuling to Taroko, is fantastic. Why not have the best of both the Northern and Central cross Island highways?

You could take the 3 from Taipei down to Tashi, cross the Northern Cross Island highway to Chilan, turn right and head up the valley toward Lishan. From there to Dayuling, at which point you can decide to turn right and do the last 9 steep kms to the top of the 8, or simply continue down towards Taroko. You could do the same return , or go over the 8 back to Puli and then up the 3 home. Or even up the coast to the Bei yi gong lou (#9) and return. It’s quiet now, and a great motorcycling road now that all the traffic is on the Shrting-Ilan tunnel. It would make for a very nice loop, and you would get in the Suao gong lou if you wanted to make a more complete scenic loop.

[quote=“MJB”]I’m with Redwagon here…The west side of the 8 heading back toward Puli is a traffic infested, overbuilt, tour bus mess. The east side, from Dayuling to Taroko, is fantastic. Why not have the best of both the Northern and Central cross Island highways?

You could take the 3 from Taipei down to Daxi, cross the Northern Cross Island highway to Chilan, turn right and head up the valley toward Lishan. From there to Dayuling, at which point you can decide to turn right and do the last 9 steep kms to the top of the 8, or simply continue down towards Taroko. You could do the same return , or go over the 8 back to Puli and then up the 3 home. Or even up the coast to the Bei yi gong lou (#9) and return. It’s quiet now, and a great motorcycling road now that all the traffic is on the Shrting-Yilan tunnel. It would make for a very nice loop, and you would get in the Suao gong lou if you wanted to make a more complete scenic loop.[/quote]Still haven’t done the Lishan route but from photos I’ve seen it looks great. But I really think that it would be worth including the Su-Hua Gonglu as per your last sentence. So an itinerary for that could be something like Taipei – Lishan (+ an additional stop midway?) (+ side trip up to Hehuanshan as you suggested?) – Tianxiang – around Suao or Yilan – Taipei. Or the other way round.

On the way up to Lishan you could stop at Wuling Farm for the night. There’s an excellent campsite up there.

thanks so much for all the advices and helps… I can always count on the community here when I need to bounce some ideas around…

right now i’m just reading, looking at maps, and letting things mix together in a nice trip-stew in my mind. i’ll keep y’all informed as to what i’ll do and where i’ll go before i take off.

thanks again!

I was thinking about doing a trip like this around Chinese New Year. Is that going to be feasible given the possible weather conditions then?

Yes…

We did a forumosa motorcycle trip up there in May of 06 and can heartily recommend camping. The scenery is spectacular, and at nearly 2,000meters in elevation the stifling heat of the plains is replaced by crisp, cold perfect sleeping conditions. The tents in the photos were a bit pricey at 1200 per night, but as you can see we had a huge section of the campground to ourselves. In fact, we had the whole damn campground to ourselves! Truant has one photo the perfectly shows the scenic beauty of the place, maybe he’ll post it here.

The Northern Cross Island Highway is also impressive in it’s own right…

Well worth a stop IHMO :slight_smile: