[quote=“sandman”]Everest base camp is an absolute shithole, too – literally. The whole place really does smell like a big outdoor toilet. Hardly surprising, when you consider that that is precisely what it is. It’s really not a nice place to visit at all, and you’ll be completely looked down upon and viewed as pests by the real climbers in whose way you’ll be getting. Not a very nice atmosphere at all - VERY cliquish.
I’d do a bit more research first if I were you – there are FAR, FAR nicer and more exciting trekking destinations than Everest.[/quote]
That’s my understanding too. I got the impression people mostly go to Everest base camp so they can say they went to Everest base camp, but there are lots of better treks including the Annapurna Circuit, which is what I did.
That was an outstanding trek. Hiked every day for 3 weeks, hiking completely around Annapurna and crossing over a pass at 17,800 feet. The scenery is fantastic, starting at lower elevation with trees and vegetation, through small villages, crossing hanging metal bridges over roaring rivers, and staying for the night in the countless simple lodges along the way that offer food, water, an outhouse, and if you’re lucky a hot shower (but not always). Of course one gradually gains elevation, till you’re completely surrounded by massive snowy peaks. I’ve done lots of mountain climbing in peaks up to 14,000 or so, in Colorado, California, etc, but there’s nothing like the Himalayas. Those mountains are immense.
You’ll meet lots of nice folks from around the world who are on exactly the same trek as you are and you’ll get to know some of them fairly well as you’ll be on the same trail and staying in the same lodges. Some hire guides or porters, but if you’re reasonably fit and competent that’s not necessary. I was hiking with a Nepali kid I met in Kathmandu who wanted to join me on the trek, but I was his guide more than the other way around, as he was a city boy who knew nothing about altitude and I equipped him before we left Kathmandu.
It’s not uncommon at all for people to die on Annapurna or suffer injuries or altitude sickness for which they have to be helicoptered out, and as we were heading up lots of folks were hiking down the other way and as they passed us they told us, “you’ll never make it. the snow’s too deep. Might as well turn around now.” Later we met a few sherpas who were drinking and singing in a lodge one night and tried to get me to join them in their joyous festivities (though I was far too tired to do so). It turned out they had been sent up there on a trek to find the body of a climber who had died.
We didn’t listen to the foreign naysayers heading back but continued on, figuring we had to give it our best shot and if we eventually learned we couldn’t make it we would turn around then. As we gained altitude, we took greater and greater precautions as instructed to avoid deadly altitude sickness (primarily drinking lots and lots of water and climbing higher every day than where we would sleep, which usually meant ditching the backpack in the lodge and climbing up a big hill and back) and we all had our altitude sickness pills.
As we got a few days from the high 17,800 ft pass it snowed every day, which made it incredibly beautiful, but also made it appear that the others had been right and it would be impossible to cross over the top. We got one stop closer and one stop closer, then we had to stay a second night at one stop due to the snow and the whole thing was extremely borderline (though that one extra night helped greatly to avoid altitude sickness). But in the end we totally lucked out as the snow stopped for a few days and we were able to pass over through the fabulous snowy mountains.
Although it was usually very warm hiking in the sunshine through the snow, as we got very near the pass, it got exceptionally cold at night even with long underwear, socks and a hat inside a good sleeping bag. The morning we crossed the high pass, we all woke about 4 am. You have to leave that early to be sure you’ll make it over and down to hte village on the other side. Of course it was pitch dark and you start up the extremely steep face of the mountain with flashlights. I don’t believe any of us had ice axes or crampons, but it was extremely steep and one had to be very careful. It was also extremely difficult breathing and we stopped often to catch our breaths.
We made it over the top and, while I’ve been on lots of mountain tops, this was without a doubt by far the most spectacular. This is not my pic, but this is what you’re hiking through and I have many comparable pics.
Then sliding down the other side was a blast and when we arrived at the village we were all totally exuberant. We had done it. Although we had talked of finally drinking a beer again when we got down there (or smoking some of the pot that we’d picked near the beginning of the trek), it was still way too high (above 16,000 ft) and we were too exhausted to do so, instead just happily recuperating. The next day down we felt a little stronger, and by the 3d or 4th day down the other side (or maybe 5th) we came to this fantastic lodge with natural thermal hot springs one could bathe in and great baked goods. Wow was that great. Then down, down, down, one tiny village after another till we finally reached Pokhara, with it’s lake and the phenomenal view of this mountain.
After eating heartily in Pokhara, one takes a bus back to hot, crowded, polluted, but colorful and exotic Kathmandu. The Annapurna Trek is fantastic (especially if you’re lucky enough that the weather and your health will permit you to make the full circuit), but there are lots of other great hikes in Nepal. Go for it.
