Hi,
I will be visiting Taiwan in March with my road bike. I plan to ride as much as possible, starting in Pingtung (getting there by train from TPE), crossing beautiul island from West to East (road 20), than to ride North along the coast. Next, of course, is the KOM and… after that I have no idea what will be the best way to return to Taipei. Is it better to come back on the West side or ride North? Where I will encounter less traffic?
Oh, before you ask, I am used to covering 150-200k daily with 3-4k elevation gain. I am just not so good in planning 
Any help would be greatly appreciated! I have been to Taiwan several times, so one thing I am not worried is hospitality and friendliness of Taiwaneese people!
I strongly recommend crossing the costal mountain range at least once (suggest highway 23 at Donghe or the road between Ruisui and Dagangkou right near Fengbin (NOT the 30, this one.) In the valley, stay on the Zhuofu Road or the 193 and avoid the 9.
Are you doing the KOM east to west as it sounds like you plant to do? If so, you will come down on the west side with no great way to get back to Taipei (although some decent ones).
Much better in my opinion to head south on the 21 and end up in Chiayi via the 18 and and 159A from Shizhuo. Just take the HSR back to Taipei.
Oh, I think you are confused about Highway 20. Much more likely you mean the 9 if you are leaving from Pingtung.
[deleted recommendation to take southern cross (20). See next post].
Sadly the 20, also known as the southern cross highway, remains closed to bicycles as far as I can determine.
Plan for rain. Watch out for falling rocks.
Cold hard rain above 2,000 meters especially.
My recommendation…
Ride south from Pingtung and cross to the east on 9. Follow 9 up the coast through Taidong and cross into the rift valley via 30. Ride through the valley again on 9, cross the small roads across the valley a couple times working north. Ride up to Hualien and do the KOM route from the east. Ride up to Hehuanshan then double back and take 7 down to Datong. From there you can continue on 7 back to Taipei or do a bit more of Yilan and get back to Taipei via 9 just past Jiaoxi. Have fun, be careful.
As pointed out, 20 isn’t possible.
Wow!
Thanks for your responses!
Initially I planned to get from Taipei to Pingtung (and plan to ride southern highway). Since it is impossible for bike riders my plan will look like this:
Day 1: getting the HSR from Taipei to Zuoying. Ride around 90k to Checheng (alternatively 80k to Shizi).
Day 2: If starting from Checheng I’d take the 199 to cross East and ride as far north as possible, avoiding traffic as much as possible - please advice.
Day 3: Ride all the way to Xiulin (starting pount determined by day 2 finish).
Day 4: Suffer up the KOM and ride down on 7 in Datong direction
Day 5: Depending on where day 4 will end and what this community will suggest. Either take 9 from Jiaoxi or earlier take road number 7 direction Fuxing.
Day 6: I have to reach Taipei mainstation by 2pm
I am also open for an alternative route (road less traveled are priority), but I really would like to ride the KOM from East to West. Thanks also for any equiplent advice - I will be prepared.
Chris
Alternatively, on day 4 I could ride south again, and come back to Taipei by train - no problem
Maybe I’m biased, but I’d suggest #7 (Beiheng) back into Taipei, it will be a good climb up to the MingChi Forest, but essentially “downhill” to Sanxia and then bike paths to Taipei. You’ll see fantastic scenery and avoid the hassles of Beiyi (via Jiaoxi and Pinglin with all the motorbikes), also TBH Yilan is not fun to cycle across. I cycled the road a few days ago: https://www.strava.com/activities/13499632255
oh - as someone mentioned, it rains in Taiwan - bring rain gear
Sorry, I meant this then hook back up with 9 to Taidong.
One more thing - is there any “good” time to ride KOM? I mean is the road busy on weekends? If so I may plan to ride from North to South starting ride in Taipei. Now I am calculating that I would ride up the KOM on Saturday.
First draft of route Do not look at the stops, it was composed to get a general view.Route draft
OK. This is find. The first half of this ride is going to suck. Flat industrial wastelands and fish farms. Probably the best of not-great options would be to take a local rain from Zuoying with your bike all the way to Fangliao and start from there.
Day 2: If starting from Checheng I’d take the 199 to cross East and ride as far north as possible, avoiding traffic as much as possible - please advice.
Defintely do this (Checheng+199). The 199 is a great little road–especially the last bit before it joins with the Southern Link highway. You might even see some wildlife.
Day 3: Ride all the way to Xiulin (starting pount determined by day 2 finish).
OK. But for me this is boring. I’d go up the coast and cross the coastal mountain range after Taidung a couple of times so that you see some of the Rift Valley. It’s really beautiful.
Soak in a hot spring in Ruisui or Antong and then just take a local train up to Xiulin.
Day 4: Suffer up the KOM and ride down on 7 in Datong direction
Have fun!!
Day 5: Depending on where day 4 will end
Day 6: I have to reach Taipei mainstation by 2pm
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Do not take the 9. Definitely take the Number 7 direction Fuxing. A very beautiful road.
Lishan, Nanshan, and Baling all have places to stay on the 7. You can make it from Baling to Taipei Main Station on day 7 by 2pm no problem if you start at dawn.
When are you coming?
In general, the east side is OK for traffic even on weekends. Start at dawn to avoid traffic in the first 20km or so (main part of gorge, after that less traffic). Of course weekdays will be even better.
You do know that the East side is steeper, right? Most people do it from the west side because it is easier. But weekend traffic is a major issue in my opinion on the west side.
Be sure to keep an eye on Taroko website for road closures. Last time I checked, the roads are still going through some construction.
https://www.taroko.gov.tw/en/TAROKO_HighwayCondition.aspx?n=7879&sms=0
In my opinion, if you’re not very pressed for time, just ride the first 25-30km (of the No.8) as that’s the best part of the route and turn back. The coastal road from Hualien to Suao could be the most scenic part of your trip.
It’s a looong ass descent of over 110km. I personally feel like it’s better going up! Plenty of place to rest on your way down, but just keep in mind…it’ll still be a bit chilly up there in March. A buddy of mine descended it awhile ago and documented it:
Have fun!
Thanks! Day 4 - I was wondering if after KOM taking the descent South-West direction would not be a better idea? Gett all the way to Chiayi ant take train back to Taipei? Looking at map this part has a lot of winding roads
Your original idea of going back to Taipei via the 7 is actually a very good route.
BUT, going to SW to Chiayi is even better! And yes, you can easily take the train or the HSR back (bag bike). Anothe reason to go this way especially in March is that your chances of dry weather are better. The 7 is notoriously rainy.
Here’s a map showing one good way to do it from Wuling (top of KOM).
Looking at map this part has a lot of winding roads
You have the right idea
I took a look at your draft route. I can’t see exactly where you are riding in the rift valley on Day 3 but I recommend that you avoid Provincial Highway 9. It’s practically a freeway.
I would do it something like [this] (Taitung to Hualien – Google My Maps) (map).
Day 3 is the most “sketchy” as there are several ways along the coast. I would like to cross the coastal mountain line (road 64?). It seems that it is worth trying