They wont be open that late, best go tomorrow.
The rpm rating doesnt mean jack, its just a term that they use for some reason.
an aftermarket clutch will have springs already installed.
Rollers cost $250-300 a set, KOSO do nice ones.
I cant advise what setup you need for your bike, its a hit and miss thing, go to WRRP and they will sort you out.
Well I just went there (I left like a minute before that message telling me not to go haha). Turns out their Sunday hours are 12-11PM BUT they are closed on the 3rd and 4th Sunday of every month, so we will go back tomorrow morning at 10 when they open. Hopefully there won’t be a big line at that time. Should I tell them you sent me? I will update tomorrow with the things that they changed.
P.S.- Regardless of the weights, you DEF think I should get the 1500RPM spring right? I am VERY excited to get there and get my bike sorted out. Do you think they do the nitty gritty stuff most shops don’t do there like cleaning carbs and replacing shock oil in the front shocks (If so, when do you recommend doing those things. I have 20k KM now)?
These guys are full on tuners, they even have a dynojet built into the store.
The best tuning shop in Taiwan full stop.
I went this morning. What a bunch of pros! They changed my roller weight set-up to 3- 13g and 3-14g, and changed the torque spring. They said that I didn’t need a new clutch, and asked me to test drive it. It felt better, but the clutch still shook a little when it engaged from a stop and they said it wasn’t a big problem but if I wanted it to go away, I needed a new clutch. You were right, everything was cheaper there. The clutch was 950NT instead of the 1500 I was quoted around my house. The spring was only 300 also, so thanks to you I got my roller weights, spring and clutch for less money than I would have paid for only a clutch around my house! I also had them do some basic maintenance stuff like new spark plug, new air filter and oil change (not sure if it needed the plug but I figure it is always good to change if you buy a used scooter). Even with the 300 dollar oil (not sure if it makes any difference to get the good oil, but I figured what the hell), the total for everything they did was only 2050NT. Makes me feel pretty stupid for spending 1500 on just a variator and rollers at my old shop (probably would have been half that at this place). The bike has better acceleration now and feels a lot torquier (I will pretend that’s a word). The spring also made the bike behave a lot better on startup and when idling for some reason. It also makes the clutch stay engaged a lot longer when I stop accelerating which feels better (or is that from the new clutch?). Thanks so much, dude, for helping me with all of my scooter trouble and recommending that shop!
Best,
Tyler
[quote=“tyrub42”]I went this morning. What a bunch of pros! They changed my roller weight set-up to 3- 13g and 3-14g, and changed the torque spring. They said that I didn’t need a new clutch, and asked me to test drive it. It felt better, but the clutch still shook a little when it engaged from a stop and they said it wasn’t a big problem but if I wanted it to go away, I needed a new clutch. You were right, everything was cheaper there. The clutch was 950NT instead of the 1500 I was quoted around my house. The spring was only 300 also, so thanks to you I got my roller weights, spring and clutch for less money than I would have paid for only a clutch around my house! I also had them do some basic maintenance stuff like new spark plug, new air filter and oil change (not sure if it needed the plug but I figure it is always good to change if you buy a used scooter). Even with the 300 dollar oil (not sure if it makes any difference to get the good oil, but I figured what the hell), the total for everything they did was only 2050NT. Makes me feel pretty stupid for spending 1500 on just a variator and rollers at my old shop (probably would have been half that at this place). The bike has better acceleration now and feels a lot torquier (I will pretend that’s a word). The spring also made the bike behave a lot better on startup and when idling for some reason. It also makes the clutch stay engaged a lot longer when I stop accelerating which feels better (or is that from the new clutch?). Thanks so much, dude, for helping me with all of my scooter trouble and recommending that shop!
Best,
Tyler[/quote]
Haha, great to hear! :bravo:
Sounds like they hit the sweet spot on your bike, you only need to mix rollers when you are aiming for perfection, which is what they are good at.
Shame you didnt have a Yamaha, i have tons of spares for the transmission and big bore kits etc, i could of just delivered the parts to you!.
If you need any tuning done, ask WRRP as they have alot of experience with kymcos.
If you want more power for essentially pocket change, next step is a small big bore kit and a carb, under $9000nt and you will double the power of your bike while also being very reliable 
Damn dude, you are like the scooter tuning Santa Clause haha. Yeah it is a shame I didn’t end up with a Yamaha but the Kymco is what was available at a decent price so it’ll have to do unless I meet someone who feel like trading bikes haha. But now thanks to you and WRRP I REALLY like the way my bike feels. I saw that the Kymco 150 is similar in HP/torque to the Kymco 125 but it definitely feels a lot more powerful than any 125 I have ridden, and it has a new rear shock and I put new Bridgestones on it so it feels great zipping around turns. Now just hoping that nothing else breaks on it for a few years so it doesn’t become a money pit. Should I look at getting the front shocks rebuilt with new oil/springs soon or is that unnecessary at 20k KM? Really can’t thank you enough for all of your input and for introducing me to that shop. It was a great birthday present to finally get my scooter sorted out, so thanks so much!
Well unless you dont like the stock suspension, best leave it be.
But i do recommend a big bore kit, WRRP could advise, that will make your bike a little rocket in town!.
Eh, honestly part of me kinda really wants to do that because fast bikes are awesome (I got to drive my friend’s 183cc (I think it was 183) Cygnus a few years ago and it was mind blowing), but 9000 bucks is a bit outta my price range and to be honest I love the way it is now (and most of my driving is on Taipei roads with a lot of speed cameras haha). Thanks for the suggestion though and for everything! I really do appreciate it!
Hello again. I convinced my coworker with a Cygnus that he needs to do the tranny upgrade to his bike. I know Yamahas are your thing, so what do you think he should do (he doesn’t want to ever do anything to the engine, so this will be the only thing he mods on it)? Just weights and spring? Or should he do weights/spring/variator? I am guessing I can just take him to WRRP and they will know what to do for it right?
Also do you recommend he or I change the three little clutch springs? Does that make any significant difference to a bike?
Well when i used to sell parts online the order of doing the upgrades was:
CVT kit… thats a new variator, lighter rollers, 1500 rpm torque spring.
Then it was clutch followed by big bore kit.
I have all the parts to make his bike quicker on hand (including big bore kits!) but he can just pop down to WRRP and they can let him try out different setups to make sure he is happy.
OK cool I will tell him. So if I keep the stock clutch but just put stiffer springs on it, what would that do exactly (make the clutch engage at a different RPM or just engage faster?)? Do you think it is worthwhile to do (would he or I notice a significant increase in take off power or other performance from that)? Thanks dude!
Well after a day of googling it seems like stiffer clutch springs just make the clutch grab at a higher RPM, so it pretty much just gives a better take off. Is that right? Do you think it is worthwhile to do (the change feels significant)? I also read that it shortens the life of the clutch and belt, but I have no idea if that is true. Does it significantly shorten clutch/belt life? Thanks!
Whoops didnt check back.
Dont ever change the clutch springs, it makes the bike a pig to ride in town at low speeds and also shortens the life of the clutch.
If you want more take off, tune the transmission or upgrade the engine instead.
Word up, thanks so much. I will keep the bike the way it is. The 1500 RPM torque spring is taking a little getting used to since it keeps the bike in a lower gear as it slows down (which has a little bit of a braking effect if you know what I mean), so when the clutch releases I can feel it a lot more. Well worth it so far though; the thing is a blast to ride around town and in the mountains! Thanks for your help!