RZR Fuel Valve Seat O Ring?

Anyone know if it should have one?

Dont recall seeing one when I took it apart, and the valve is apparently leaking, (fuel overflow now its back together) so I’m wondering if I might have lost one.

I note the Honda NSR manual (closest I have) mentions a rubber tip on the valve cone. Pretty sure the RZR valve cone didn’t have one of those, which tend to support the idea of it needing rubber on the seat side.

No o-ring needed Ed. www.sudco.com is a great resource for anything at all to do with Japanese carbs.

#32 is the needle and valve assembly. IIRC the VM series needles are plain, no Viton. That doesn’t mean the valve needs an o-ring however.

Thanks Redwagon. A response above and beyond the call, as per usual.

I took it apart again yesterday, couldn’t see anything specific wrong with the valve but there were some loose bits of gasket sealant (“permatex” made-for-the-job, which I’d used on the float bowl gasket, and which seems to be crap) floating around.

Cleaned it off and used ordinary builders mastic-gun-application neutral cure silicone rubber, which seems to be OK, though it’ll go off in the tube long before I’ve used 0.00001% of it.

I need to be working on bigger engines.

Isn’t leaking so far. My guess is a bit of gasket crap/crap gasket was stopping the valve from seating properly.

Edit: Ah, it is now, 24 hours later. Damn. Maybe the floats (which looked OK as far as I could tell) have a pinhole and are sinking?

Don’t use instant gasket for the float bowl gasket. If the gasket is shot then either buy one or cut your own from stiff paper. You probably have silicone bits in the bowl and they are holding the valve open. I’ve never, ever, seen a plastic float assembly leak. Not even Dell’Orto items!

If you get tired of the messing around try upgrading to a Keihin from an HX135 or NSR. You get better access to parts and better performance as well. There’s a bit of juggling to do with jets and needles but it’s worth it.