Scooter Mods

Ok, I have my decals, cup holders, blue indicators, flashing brake light, doilly on the dash and girlfriend in spaghetti-strap top on the back: it’s time for my scooter to get some real mods.

Any suggestions for some performance-enhancing mods? What have you guys done to your scooters? Carby tweaks, engine swaps… spill!

kamiwaza

Is the girlfriend showing plenty of rear cleavage and leg? If not, you’ll be needing to rectify that before anything else.

furry dice and go fast stripes down the side of the scooter…

a skanky girl… with a tatoo… and chewing some betelnut

[quote=“Omniloquacious”]Is the girlfriend showing plenty of rear cleavage and leg? If not, you’ll be needing to rectify that before anything else.[/quote]Yes, you can’t even begin to think about getting into the engine until you’ve upgraded her to thong type underwear. Also, a non-OEM “Daisy Duke” setup would show more leg and thus improve the overall look of your ride.

But seriusly though. I, too would like to do some modifications to my scooter. Any good suggestions.

Get a 1200cc V-twin to give it some REAL power :slight_smile:)…seriously, I have no idea…my idea of engine mods at my age is getting gas for my Matiz (which your scooter would take off the line, at the 1/4 mile, and in a 500 mile race)(with NO mods :smiley:).

If you want any sort of serious response you’ll have to be a bit more specific…

What kind of scooter do you have?

Of course! She also has aerodynamic pointy heels, a haughty stare for foreigners at the lights, and only takes 98 octane.

I ride a 125 Duke.

I’m mechanically minded but I’m a car person. I’ve never worked on engines so small.

So come on, you can’t all be riding bog-stock oil burners! Share!

kamiwaza

You can get all manner of parts for a Duke that make it louder and less reliable. The factory intake and exhaust are very well designed, nothing to be gained changing those. Other than that you can retrofit a factory 150cc top end, or there are Japanese piston and cylinder kits out to about 180cc. There are also some performance cams available, but both are outnumbered about 10:1 by cheap local copies which die young. After these mods you’re on your own wrt getting the fueling right. Needles and jets are not widely available here for the DIY tweaker.
I think the best bang for the buck is lightened rollers for the transmission. Keeps the revs higher for any given speed while accelerating. Make more use of what power the motor already has, makes no more noise, needs no further tweaking. Best performance upgrade on any vehicle is usually better tires.
You also need some of those lurid green scorpion decals for your ride, and learn to ride around with your legs wide open. I’ve heard that this trick, in conjunction with the smoking of cigarettes while riding is good for at least 10bhp :wink:

Take a can of spray paint – any bright color will do – and spray big 2-inch dots all over it, including the speedo and tires.
Surely you’ve seen this done before and I know how cool I think it looks.

My mechanic in Donghu charges $600 for lighter roller bearings and another $600 for springs for my guangyang 125, but he says the boost is not a whole lot. He says it’s legal since it’s a minor transmission mod, not a change in bore or stroke. It’s not a big boost, but it’s also not a lot of money.

I’m kind of surprised to see this thread resurrected. When I started it, I was having problems logging in to Forumosa and couldn’t post for ages. I actually sort of forgot about this thread.

I wanted to say thanks hsiahdogah for the only serious suggestions, and thanks to Wolf for being the closest to funny.

The transmission mods seem to be a good cheap option, Dragonbones, I might get around to trying them. Truth be told, I’m still riding the same un-modded bike as when I posted in August, though the girlfriend has been upgraded.

Cheers

kamiwaza

Dukes were the most modded scooters on the Island for the last few years…the Cygnuses seem to be the most popular now. If you find a good after-market shop. I’m sure they will have tons of ideas for you. I live near Chung-Li and there is a great shop called Autobike. The owner has a Duke that can do over 150km/hr and has trouble keeping the front tire on the ground. I think the first thing to do is find a good modding shop…as opposed to a repair shop.

If you want your girlfriends undies to rip off, here’s how you do it.

Pulley System - weights/pulley/and heavy spring inside the clutch (this raises the RPM of your clutch so it doesn’t grab until the engine is already screaming). $700

Gears - if you’re a Taipei guy, you’ll want low gears to get better launches. If you’re a hillbilly like me you want the tall ones so you can dry your hair faster on the open mountain roads. $400

Exhaust pipe - get a fat one but doesn’t have to be loud. $1400

carberator - Mikuni from an old DT $cheap, or a Kehin 2 stroke big bore DIO carb. $1500

Cam - cheap taiwanese one will do fine. $700

Ignition - hi performance plug, wire, and coil $500

Head - Kymco with high performance valve springs, big valves and porting. The head is the most important thing in my opinion so don’t chooch on that one. $4000

Piston cylinder kit - I think you can go up to 59mm without having to get your engine block ported or spend the extra $1000 for porting and then you can go up to 63mm (good times).

Tires shocks and all that other crap depending on how old your bike is and how fast you want to go.

This stuff is illegal so DON’T DO ANY OF IT.

Oh yeah, the labour should be included in all of thos prices.

Actually you can just rig up some extra engines on it, like this guy did, adding (I kid you not) chainsaw engines for extra oomph:

This mod does not help with ‘out of the hole’ or top end…

and remember to always wear a helmet

Human stupidity is apparently infinite.

You’ve got some nice suggestions there turkey, this is the kind of stuff I was talking about.

I’ve been thinking about a bigger bore carburettor and some kind of tunnel-ram type set up. When you say gears though, which part are you talking about? I’m not 100% with the transmission in these things.

Mordeth, I think the Dukes are most commonly modded scooters because they’re one of the most common 125cc bikes around… and they’re pretty simple to work on I guess. I’ve seen some really trick Cygnuses around, and they all thrash my old clunker.

What I really want is one of these.

Cheers

kamiwaza

Definetly not the bike you want to teach your girlfriend to ride with, don’t stall it hehehe or you’ll have to pull-start 12 engines. He should put a huge blade on that thing and cut down some trees while he’s drivin’. This guy must have intercepted a truckload of chainsaws because nobody is going to sponsor or buy that many saws to make a peice of ca-ca like that.

THIS STUFF IS ILLEGAL SO DON’T DO ANY OF IT!

Oh yeah man. Dukes are the way to go. Actually Duke, Freeway, and Jockey are the same bike with different plastic bodies.

The gears are located in the far back of the bike. You have to remove the wheel and there’s a plate you take off to expose the gears. There’s two (one big and one small), they come in a set. Sometimes you’ll see them change the gear oil (not engine oil) by removing a small drain plug near your brake adjustor.

I’ve done all the mods listed… I got 150km easy, but I changed to low gears a couple months ago and WOW this thing eats anything (within reason of course hehehe). NSRs VFR RZs at least the stock or poorly modified ones. Reliability??? Don’t worry about that I’ve got lots of miles on this thing without any problems. The only thing you’ll run into is snapped drive belts 180nt (for the good ones) and that will only happen if you’re heavy and kick the piss out of it all everyday like I do. I’m not joking, I’ve literally kicked the snot out of this thing for over a year. I have a highway in between my house and work which I’m wide open for about 20mins straight each way everyday. I’m trying to kill it so It forces me to go bigger and better on the rebuild. I change the oil and filter but this thing shows no sign of weakness yet.

You can also get soft compund tires from the right shops they make a huge difference with heavy braking and hard cornering… if that’s not your bag don’t bother with them because the stock ones are decent.

Oh yeah one more nice mod is to dump the old forks with the stupid trailing arm suspension thingy and get the straight forward type with a disk brake. $4000 includes the brake lever and hydraulic master cylinder for your handle bars.

If you’re REALLY serious about speed, you can get the forged piston and a stroked crank/rod set which will give you huge torque. I’ve got that crap but it wasn’t cheap or easy, so don’t bother.

Make sure you tell the guy how far you’re going with it so he sells you the right pipe and cam for your application. Those two items alone will make you smile the first time you crack the throttle and then you’ll be hooked.

Now here’s the dumbest mod of all!!! if you get the forged piston and crank, for $8000 you can add a NOS (nitrous oxide system) and then you can really hurt yourself. I built my bike for the NOS but I never got around to doing it because my bike had already reached it goal (to waste anything). I think there’s a couple DIOs in town that could take me but so far I’m the mighty whitey.

Oh yeah. RIDE SAFE. There’s a time and a place for rockin’. I don’t like seeing people making low percentage moves thinking that that makes them a good driver. A good driver can evaluate the situation and recognise the possibility of a problem before it happens. If you can’t see EVERY LITTLE NOOK AND CRANNY ON EITHER SIDE OF THE ROAD slow down, if there’s even a high frequency of crossroads… it’s not worth it. WAIT and get them when it’s in a safer place.

Good times.