[quote=“jaame”]A little off topic there boys.
Mod: Why are these posts not being removed like always happens to mine?[/quote]
Says the poster who started the sub-topic of chain lubricants…
…used on a CPI SM250, in a thread entitled “CPI SM250 and related banter”.
Engineering concensus is that oil is the better lubricant, even allowing for the dirt attraction. If you have an ‘O’ ring chain, lubrication is less critical and wax might be a reasonable compromise.
I’m pretty sure I don’t have an o-ring chain. I noticed after a couple of months my chain was getting stiff in places, so I’m now doing a 1 chain oil - 1 chain wax strategy. I don’t like the fling off from oil, it makes my white rim tape dirty and the back brake ineffective for a few ks. Wax is just so much cleaner.
I dont think there’s an “ideal” solution to this problem, the exposed chain is fundamentally fuckwitted so we have to make do. (You’d think a belt drive conversion kit would be a possibility, but I guess the market would be too small).
It probably makes a difference what oil one uses. I’ve read that chainsaw oil is specially formulated to be sticky, though I dunno if you can get it in Taiwan. Snowmobile oil too, but there won’t be a huge market for that here. I havn’t seen special chain oil here (though I havn’t looked) but you seem to be saying that’s what you are using.
Apart from special oils, my (admittedly limited) testing with 40W motor oil suggests “little and often” reduces mess from fling-off. The easiest way to do that is with a chain oiler device. Might I suggest you consider Eds Oiler? Wouldn’t cost you hardly anything.
I’ve made some progress with metering but havn’t got to the point where I can write it up. Meantime adding a few drops every trip or two seems to work OK.
I have a spray lube specifically designed for bikes, it says on the tin in Japanese, it’s made by G-zox, I got it from Autobacs. I think it’s a bit too thin to be a great chain lube, even if I spray a tiny bit on for one rotation of the chain and then hold a rag on it and spin the wheel a few more times, it still flings off loads. Little and often 50-50 with wax is what I’ll try for a couple of months.
Was in one of the good tool stores in Kaoshiung yesterday and I came across some chainsaw oil at the back of the shed. 300NT a quart.
Can’t remember the brand, something like 4maxlube, though Google doesn’t find that.
Lot of writing in English on the bottle, but the light was poor, my eyes ain’t what they used to be, and the gf was bored and wanted to go to IKEA so I could be too. 
I THINK it said it was made from high oleic acid soy oil, suggesting that my idea of using a blend of veg and mineral oil might not be so daft.
I’ve never properly tested the idea, since I don’t ride a motorcycle much now. Sunflower oil used alone seems to be a good lubricant initially and gives very good long term corrosion protection, but it sets quite quickly.
Soy oil has fewer double bonds so probably has higher oxidative stability.
In general, veg oils stick well to metal surfaces and show good boundary lubrication behaviour.
Their tendancy to coke and varnish shouldn’t be such a problem on a chain.
http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0301679X06003185
Vegetable oil-based lubricants—A review of oxidation
http://ddr.nal.usda.gov/bitstream/10113/1082/1/IND43899207.pdf
Oxidation and low temperature stability of vegetable oil-based lubricant.
I was reminded recemtly that back in the UK I had a rather nice book on the care and feeding of traditional gaff-rigged sailboats. I think it was called Hand, Reef and Steer by Tom Cunliffe.
The use of traditional materials for lubrication and corrosion protection was advocated where appropriate, stuff like tallow, lanolin, and Stockholm tar.
As a largely armchair sailor not in possession of a traditional gaff-rigged boat, I never put any of this into practice. I dunno where you’d get lanolin here, but tallow (essentially rendered fat, or lard) should be easy, even if you had to make it yourself.
I wonder how it’d do as a substitute for the melt-in chain lubricants mentioned (by Redwagon) above. You could probably add mineral or vegetable oil to the melt to adjust its consistency. This might also limit rancidity, which might be a problem.
Apparently its still used as a rolling-mill lube (an EP application) and in various other niche applications.
http://upetd.up.ac.za/thesis/submitted/etd-08132008-103521/unrestricted/dissertation.pdf
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/20251-OT-or-Not-Tallow-as-lubricant-questions