Really? Others above seem to think the max wattage of 300 might be an issue.
Well you didnt take the pic correctly. So no way for us to know.
Why? Many adaptors go to 10A, 2500 watt. A TV with power usage of 400 watt is only 4 Amp.
( * Universal travel plug adapter for US converts plugs from most foreign countries to 2-pin Plug for US sockets
- Standard: Type B plug, US, Japan, Canada CEE 7/16. Does NOT accept plugs from S. Africa
- Max Capacity Up to 2500 Watt (max 250 Volt, 10 A))
An adaptor is not a voltage converter. If his TV doesnt support 110V it won’t work.
According to the specs of what’s shown it’s 100-240V
Sorry got the wrong glasses on.
But anyways, it’s 60 hz, which is pretty important.
You know almost all wall wort type devices are 100-250v, even ones that aren’t specifically marked as such. I find it hard to believe a TV would not work with variable voltage. TV all use wall worts, or at least an internal version of one.
The only TV that might have issues with differing voltage would be old style CRT TV. If that’s what you have (very unlikely) then you would need a transformer.
not according to Samsung website this model is 220-240v
I must say I find this baffling. Appliances in that power range usually have PFC on the front end, and therefore a universal input voltage by definition. I can only guess that it’s an older model with a resonant converter topology (which typically works well only for a very limited input voltage range). Or possibly uses rectified mains to drive the backlight PSU. Still worth double-checking the rating label before spending $$$ on a massive transformer, I reckon.
Buy one with at least 4 times the power requirement you have, I’d purchase at least a 1000W transformer for that TV.
Those transformers come with a potentially lethal lead which has a bare plug on each end, if one end is not plugged into the transformer, or falls out, you’ll have a bare mains connection on your floor. Put at least an inline switch on the cable.
With regards adapters what I did with mine was buy a trailing lead with UK sockets thereby ensuring no local 110V could be accidentally plugged into the 220V. Best solution is (semi) permanently attach the 220V side trailing lead and the 110V mains input lead to the transformer so neither can be accidentally removed.
A 1000W transformer running up to 267W through it will get warm and may even vibrate/hum so make sure it’s not going into a TV cabinet or somewhere it will toast itself or vibrate like a subwoofer.
I’ve never seen a TV with a “wall wort”. By “internal” version do you mean a voltage transformer?
2x ought to be enough. Noise is mostly down to poor construction rather than load. A transformer will certainly get warm at full load, but if it starts humming and getting hot it’s probably being driven into saturation (wrong frequency).
Very common. Mine has it. Sony from 2017.
It’s wart by the way.
Definitely disagree on that! Would want a lot more headroom for a TV that could be running for many hours at a time. I used a 2000W for mine.
A 2000W transformer is enormous. And expensive.
I suspect the problem here is that transformer vendors are mis-labelling their products. There is no need to over-spec a transformer much beyond ~150% when you’re driving a benign load, even continuously. 200% is already generous.
Your TV has one of these?