Suit fitting tips please (now with after pics)

I’m going for my suit fitting on Friday. It’ll be my first suit, at age 32, no need before really.

I picked out the fabric for the suit and shirts last Friday, wasn’t really sure what to look for, so I went on the feel and weight alone.

So, when I’m trying on the suit, what should I look out for, besides the glaringly obvious (decent stitching, propotionally correct, buttons in the right places, collar not too tight)?

Cheers.

They are going to ask you a lot of questions - look at some magazines before you go
Do you want a vent, or 2 vents at the back (get at least one as it hangs better when you sit)
Make sure the buttons on the cuff undo as opposed to being just decorative
There should be felt under the collar and lapels so they keep their shape
Double breasted makes fat men look slimmer - but its a bit old fashioned now
One more button on the cuffs than the front - i.e. 3 buttons for a 2 buttoned front, 4 buttons for a 3 buttoned front
Trousers - flat fronted if you are slim, pleats if you are larger
turn-ups are optional if you are tall and out if you are short
get two pairs of trousers for each jacket you buy - the trousers wear faster
Sleeves should allow about 1/2 an inch (1cm) of shirt cuff to show
Ideally get the trousers half lined as it increases their life significantly
wear decent shoes to the fitting so you can see where the trousers sit
make sure the jacket has a pen pocket and a business card pocket
The best suits have padding between the inner and outer layers which looks like a cross between felt and cardboard but you are unlikely to get this unless you are spending a LOT. Make sure you are happy with the way it hangs

For the shirts there are lots of choices of collar and cuff - its personal. I like spread collar and french cuffs but you need cuff links for this.
Don’t get white collars and cuffs with coloured shirts - you’ll look like an American gangster at best
Check the buttons they use are decent quality and won’t break and that they give you a spare
Get a pleat below the back yolk either side -it’ll sit better
Buttons should be open as opposed to covered
I prefer not to have a pocket but its useful if you are a smoker (don’t put pens in a shirt pocket)

Your tailor should be able to talk you through all of this.

Good luck and try to enjoy the process

Happy to answer if you have additional questions. A decent mens magazine like GQ carries tips on the latest fashions fairly regularly

Thanks, that’s a lot of useful information. Hopefully the tailor’s sharp to it, and doesn’t need much guidance from me. We have limited communication abilities.

I took in a pic of an Armani suit I pulled off the Net, and asked him to replicate. I hope he pulls it off.

[quote=“Baas Babelaas”]Thanks, that’s a lot of useful information. Hopefully the tailor’s sharp to it, and doesn’t need much guidance from me. We have limited communication abilities.

I took in a pic of an Armani suit I pulled off the Net, and asked him to replicate. I hope he pulls it off.[/quote]

Good idea! It should be fine and if you’re lucky he’ll have stuck the logo on the inside for you!
:slight_smile:

Huh? I have my Arpani labels sewn on the outside cuff so people see it when shaking hands. Have been here too long?

If you have a very protruding derriere, a single rear vent can cause the suit to part oddly at that point, and side vents may be preferable.

Definitely make sure there’s at least one spare of each button, small (e.g. for a button-down collar) and large, for the shirts; these should be sewn to the bottom of the shirt.

If you have a belly, it will help if an extra buttonhole and button are added well below the buckle point.

They can put in a rubberized strip on the inside of the pants around the belt line; this helps keep shirts from slipping up and out.

Make sure they leave room for expansion when making it. Most people gain weight over time.

Definitely wear your dress shoes, not sneakers, to the fitting.

They should discretely notice, but in case they don’t, advise them whether you tuck your todger to the left or the right.

HG

so they can make a third pocket on the correct side. . .

although I usually just tuck mine into my sock.

If you carry keys, cards, cellphones, etc., in your pockets, take those to the fitting and put them in your pockets like you think you normally would.

As for the shoes, DO make sure that they have thick rubber soles, a little gilt “Pjerro Cardine” badge on them and above all, VELCRO fastenings. Laces, buckles and elastic are NOT permitted. Preferably, you should leave them out in the rain for a couple of months before wearing them.
Dandruff, you don’t need to worry about too much. A generous sprinkling of talc mixed with a little salt dusted over the shoulders will fool almost everybody.
I get ALL my style tips from Lord Lucan.

I don’t have much hair for the dandruff to hide in. But I’ll work on the dry scalp fluff. Or better yet, I’ll wear a pink trucker cap.

I luurve my suits - I have 10 now, mostly made by a french guy in Shanghai. My 0.02 in no particular order is:

  • If you have a big ass, double vents make it look bigger.
  • Don’t get pleats if you are big as well - just makes you look bigger.
  • No cuffs on the pants if you are short (but I like them anyway) or if you don’t pay attention to how your pants ride.
  • Some Taiwan tailors like the Japanese style suits where the pants come down over the shoes - they should just break on the top of the shoe - which is why it’s important to bring the correct shoes to the fitting.
  • Insist on a super 120 or 130 wool material.
  • Don’t go for more than a 2 button suit unless you plan to buy lots of suits
  • Go for 1cm of shirt cuff showing for the arm length of the jacket. Get him to adjust one sleeve for the watch you wear.
  • Liners are important - make sure it is good. Also, you can have a bit of fun with the colors. for example I have a nice navy blue nailhead (great hard-wearling cloth) with a light pink liner - Just a little flash of pink when you’re walking.
  • Don’t be a ponce and leave one cuff button un-buttoned so that you can show off that your suit is hand made.
  • Pay attention during the final and third fitting when you pick-up the suit. If it not right then, it will never be right.
  • stay away from fancy angled pockets go traditional and while you won’t be the hight of fashion, you won’t go out of style either.
  • don’t get a spread collar if you have round face - do get french cuffs. It’s one of the few pieces of jewelry an man can wear reasonably. Just don’t get those huge ugly links.
  • Simple, formal color for your first suit.

Other than that, follow Edgar Allan’s advice.

[quote]I get ALL my style tips from Lord Lucan.[/quote] :laughing:

Its a suit he’s wanting, not a thong.

Its a suit he’s wanting, not a thong.[/quote]

What, no subliminal messaging in your suit? All business and no play?!? And you don’t wear a thong under it?

Its a suit he’s wanting, not a thong.[/quote]

What, no subliminal messaging in your suit? All business and no play?!? And you don’t wear a thong under it?[/quote]
Show me a man with a pink lining to his suit and I’ll show you a flippertigibbet. Or maybe an antiques dealer. Really, man, its simply not ON! :fume:

Its a suit he’s wanting, not a thong.[/quote]

What, no subliminal messaging in your suit? All business and no play?!? And you don’t wear a thong under it?[/quote]
Show me a man with a pink lining to his suit and I’ll show you a flippertigibbet. Or maybe an antiques dealer. Really, man, its simply not ON! :fume:[/quote]

flippertigibbet? I don’t think I sell antiques…Ooooh, you mean like someone from your conservative party, right?

Baas: Get the funeral suit - all black. With a white shirt. No “Power” Ties.

I will never buy an all black suit. I only wear very thin leather soled shoes, preferably English and hand made. Ties should be silk and should not have cartoons on them. Socks should match the color of the suit unless its white in which case match to the shoes. Never wear brown suits or shoes in town (ever). Tie pins are great and you can get them for not too much money in Sogo - much smarter than a tie clip and you need something to stop it flapping. If this is for work then a business card holder is also a must - leather is better for a man than a pink enameled thing from the night market (sorry Sandman).

You spelt it wrong. Anyway, I find that leather tends to chafe around the inner thighs.

Sure, no black unless you’re Italian, in the mafia, or a funeral director. No Brown? Brown suits seem fine these days, brown shoes seem okay as well - much less formal and interesting then black. Cordovan also goes nicely with some color suits as well.

Allen Edmunds make some nice shoes - they best part is you can send them back to get re-built on the same last.

One of the reasons I really love my light tan hand made leather shoes and happily pop them on with any dark suit and dark belt. The English have the maddest rules. I foolishly listened to Lord Lucan’s insistence, almost certainly dreamed up by some mad French or Italian poof, that no man worth his mettle could possibly get about with a pocket on shirts with French cuffs and regretted half a dozen of the otherwise best shirts I’d had made.

Unfortunately, if you’re interviewing or doing anything important with a pom, you have to remind yourself of their weird French inspired dress code. It’s difficult. I can never remember if the hankie goes in the left rear pocket of your trousers if you take the fist, and the right if you give, or the other way around. A right pain in the arse . . . or was it a left?

HG