One of the most basic activities of swimming is to get coordination right. Out of the water exercises are standard for any learner. You do exercises pool side so you can get the stroke right without worring about drowning.
news.bbc.co.uk/sport1/hi/other_s … efault.stm
Are a couple of useful sites for you. As for the back pain; you may be rushing into it too quickly. Do some slow warm ups first. Do you do any other kind of exercise? Swimming is a great all round exercise - it is possible you need to get used to your new routine.
It is possible that instead of rolling on to your side to breathe you are “breaching” (lifting your body out of the water - the back pain could also come from this -make sure you roll when doing frontstroke (freestyle)).
Taipei 101 bookshop Page One has some great books in the sports section. You could go in there and have a peek to help you.
I started to learn about four years ago, last week I swam a mile for the first time. I had an instructor for six months or so when I lived in England - since then I have been self-taught. Watching others is also a good way to learn what not to do too.
Use those links above to get yourself started. Unfortunately, I can’t recommend you an English speaking tutor. If anyone knows of a good one please let us know.
The pools here are generally good. Try to avoid evenings and weekends if you can.
Hope this helps.