Hey. I’m coming to Taiwan for three weeks in Aug/Sep. Thinking about moving there, but want to check it out first. Can someone suggest a few must-do things? The guidebooks are great, but there is SO much to see that I’m having a hard time narrowing it down. I’ll be traveling alone with a pack, stay in hostels, etc.
I’m planning to climb Yushan with a group (hope that was the right decision 
. I’m a bit stressed about the “need a permit to climb” stuff. Is it possible to meet up with other hikers and get permits quickly to climb the nearest peak?
Advice is much appreciated!
[quote=“kmm005”]Hey. I’m coming to Taiwan for three weeks in Aug/Sep. Thinking about moving there, but want to check it out first. Can someone suggest a few must-do things? The guidebooks are great, but there is SO much to see that I’m having a hard time narrowing it down. I’ll be traveling alone with a pack, stay in hostels, etc.
I’m planning to climb Yushan with a group (hope that was the right decision . I’m a bit stressed about the “need a permit to climb” stuff. Is it possible to meet up with other hikers and get permits quickly to climb the nearest peak?
Advice is much appreciated![/quote]
You’re going to have a hard time getting permits these days to Yushan. Contact Richard Foster at Barking Deer. He does trips up there and also can arrange, for a fee, getting permits (though there is no garantee). I’m pretty sure he is planning a Yushan trek in August. If you can go mid-week you have a much better chance. It takes a minimum of one week to apply and get a permit.
Snow Mountain is easier to get permits for, and is as beautiful as Yushan.
Also check out the hiking thread in Travel as me and my group go out most weekends. Also check out my blog to see some of the places we get to. These trips are free of course.
the permit system is to limit numbers walking on the highest (famous) peaks. as there are many more applications than positions, they run some kind of lottery system… so there’s no guarantee you will be in luck. and even if you win a permit, it can be cancelled with no notice due to weather concerns, such as an imminent typhoon. (no, you do not want to be stuck up YuShan during even a small typhoon).
also be aware that most taiwanese climbers seem to feel the need to arrive at the peak just before dawn, so there will be a lot of activity at about 2 am in the hut below the summit (where you have to sleep). of course, that cuts out the view on the way up, and it’s usually clouded in up there on the peak anyway so there’s little chance of actually seeing the famous sunrise over a sea of cloud. it IS pretty when you do catch it, though. it is almost guaranteed to rain up on the mountain too.
Something else to keep in mind is that now it’s the summer hols, there are a lot of student hiking clubs active on the mountains. As well as taking up a lot of the daily quota for hiking permits, it also mean the huts will be full a lot of the time. Weather-wise in the summer, clouds roll in for a white-out earlier in the day, but sink down near sunset allowing views of the surrounding peaks and ridges. Thus, as well as catching the sun-rise, local hikers rise at dawn to maximise the chances of clear weather and often knock off mid to early afternoon.
This is great information and very much appreciated.
I’ve already contacted Richard at Barking Deer about his August climb, and I’m excited about that.
I’ll look into Snow Mountain too.
I’ll also check out the hiking thread and definitely meet up with your group if you have room for me.
Your blog is great! My only complaint is that my Amazon order for the Lonely Planet guide is taking forever to ship! I got the Rough Guide in a day.
Thanks also for the other posts. This is great site for local info.
[quote=“kmm005”]This is great information and very much appreciated.
I’ve already contacted Richard at Barking Deer about his August climb, and I’m excited about that.
I’ll look into Snow Mountain too.
I’ll also check out the hiking thread and definitely meet up with your group if you have room for me.
Your blog is great! My only complaint is that my Amazon order for the Lonely Planet guide is taking forever to ship! I got the Rough Guide in a day.
Thanks also for the other posts. This is great site for local info.[/quote]
A man who buys two guidebooks and does research online. I like that kind of traveller. 
I would like to hear your opinion on RG versus LP. I am a big fan of RG’s, but they do not have it at my bookstore.
Since I don’t have my LP guide for Taiwan yet, I can’t comment. However, in general I like RG a little better but it depends on the location. I normally like to read both, but I usually haul RG along with me on a trip.
However, I’m a HUGE fan of other material too.
I’m reading “Forbidden Nation - A History of Taiwan” by Jonathan Manthorpe. It’s really excellent. Travel guides normally do a very poor job on history since that isn’t their focus.
Also, independent guides are sometimes wonderful. Rick Kennedy’s “Little Adventures in Tokyo” was one of the best (stonebridge.com/KENNEDY/littleadv.html). I enjoy the format - very personal with huge local flavor. However, that’s exactly why it won’t work as a series - since Kennedy lived in Tokyo for a long time before publishing.
kmm005,
Enjoy Taiwan for all it has to offer. I have simply fallen in love with this Country. I have been to Taiwan four times, and will return again in a few months.
My last trip was the time you will be there. My last trip was mid-September to mid-October. The last part was fine, climate-wise, but during September I was met with a great wealth of heat and humidity. Your trip may be worse as far as that aspect goes. Things cooled down for me in October, but you are there for the earlier cusp, that is the heat of the summer.
So, have lots of things to keep you cool. I don’t know where you are from in USA, but if you are from Mississippi, or Louisiana, or Florida, you will be fine. If you are from Montana, like me, or anywhere else with similar climate, just be ready to sweat buckets. Have lots of water with you, light clothing, dew rags, high energy snacks that keep your body moisture with you, etc.
I was there on my last trip from mid Sept. to mid Oct. I found it odd how most around me were wearing vests, sweaters, jackets, while I walked around in a t-shirt sweating buckets.
Up high, in the cooler altitudes it will be more comfy.
Assuming if you are coming in to Taiwan you will enter through the CKS airport and venture to Taipei… you should check out the Taipei Fine Arts Museum, the Museum of Contemporary Art, the Puppet Museum, The Living Mall, Taipei 101, but most of all…simply visit any Night Market and eat all sorts of food.
You can’t go wrong in Taiwan. That is the good part. You can go anywhere and find amazing sites, people, food, culture, beauty.
Just enjoy. Rely on yourself. You will find some of the most wonderful things in Taiwan when you are not looking for them.
jm
John,
Thanks for the post and advice. I’m a runner from Alabama, so excessive heat and humidity don’t worry me. If it’s 35c, I’ll be thrilled. I’d be more worried about the snow drifts in Montana!
I’m a huge fan of museums and I’ll make sure your list makes it to my TODOs. Do you stick to Taipei when you visit (like for work) or are you all over?
I’m heading to Yushan right after I land. After that, I was thinking of making a circle tour - trips to Sun Moon Lake, Tainan, Kaohsiung, Taitung, Hualien, Taroko, then ending in Taipei. I want to see a real cultural mix - so I’d like to focus my time outside of the cities. Any specific spots you suggest?
I know Ghost Festival is in August sometime - but the lunar calendar thing is killing me! I’d love to get to Keelung to see the celebration but I have no clue what date (I mean the date I understand) it falls on.
Kevin
sounds like you have a great plan already Kevin.
Don’t miss Wulai, or Dan Shui, or Yangminshan. Take in the dry (sundry) goods market on DiHua Street.
Check out the Paper Museum. Then take in the Nougat Museum. There is a museum for everything in Taipei. Museums are closed on Mondays, so do something else on Mondays.
Once again, I can not stress the night markets enough. They are the real deal. Hit ShiDa, Gongguan, Shilin, Raohe. Avoid
Snake Alley-it is disgusting, in my opinion. ( Go if you want, but I don’t care to see snakes and turtles hung up and slit open.)
And for people watching don’t miss Ximending or simply the area near the Kmall-just south of Taipei main station-lots of food and nonstop people.
The people of Taiwan have been very gracious to me. They put up with my basic understandning of Mandarin. I feel I get better each time, with practice, and the help of my friends. The locals will appreciate your attempts to learn the local language, and I find it fascinating, fun, and even rewarding at times when someone understands me.
The Huashan Art Center is nice too, but has been under development for a couple of years-which I actually found more interesting than a done deal.
Also, take time to see what is up at the most obvious place- the CKS Memorial Hall- or now I understand, Taiwan Democracy Memorial Hall. (forgive me if I have the new name wrong). For I would wander through there even if no festival was going on, only to find an outdoor opera, or an orchestra, or something else as wonderful.
You will have no problem finding things to blow your mind if you just wake up, look at the map, set out, and wander.
Saunter along and you will find things that are amazing. Perhaps I am easy to please, but I can (and do) sit outside my hostel simply watching the rush hour traffic blazing by with scooters, buses, taxis, cars, trucks, all making their way.
Oh, and ride the MRT. It is the best way to get from one of the city to the next. Cheap, efficient, reliable, clean, and fun.
Looking forward to more adventures late this year, and wishing you many good times, good views, good food, good friends, good memories.
Enjoy Taipei,
maybe I’ll see you there in Nov/Dec.
best to you,
jm
[quote=“kmm005”]John,
Thanks for the post and advice. I’m a runner from Alabama, so excessive heat and humidity don’t worry me. If it’s 35c, I’ll be thrilled. I’d be more worried about the snow drifts in Montana!
I’m a huge fan of museums and I’ll make sure your list makes it to my TODOs. Do you stick to Taipei when you visit (like for work) or are you all over?
I’m heading to Yushan right after I land. After that, I was thinking of making a circle tour - trips to Sun Moon Lake, Tainan, Kaohsiung, Taidong, Hualian, Taroko, then ending in Taipei. I want to see a real cultural mix - so I’d like to focus my time outside of the cities. Any specific spots you suggest?
I know Ghost Festival is in August sometime - but the lunar calendar thing is killing me! I’d love to get to Keelung (Jilong) to see the celebration but I have no clue what date (I mean the date I understand) it falls on.
Kevin[/quote]
With three weeks you can miss Sun Moon Lake. Also note that if you plan to go to Taitung you will have to go via the north or by train from Kaohsiung as there is no longer any bus service across the South Cross Island. Which is a shame as that is one of the must-sees in Taiwan.
In Taitung visit KASA on Heping Rd for the lowdown on that area. And do bring your LP for the east coast, the Rough Guide is really pathetic on this area and includes place like Shanyuan Beach and the hot springs in Taroko Gorge that have been closed for years.
Some great camping spots along the coast:
And there is a little arts scene at the Dulan Sugar Factory every weekend. This is just north of Taitung.
Taking a bus from Taichung across to Hehuanshan and down to Lishan and Wuling Farm would expose you to some of the best high mountain scenery in the country.
Do visit the Chung Tai Chan Monastery in Puli. Both LP and RG list it as a top spot. Fantastic artwork, temple architecture and statuary with English explanations and guided tours by the local nuns. Rough Guide has a great intro to the place to get you excited before you go.
Wulai, about 40 minutes from Taipei. To swim in jungle pools. LP covers this area very well.
Also check out this natural water slide:
tw.youtube.com/watch?v=FKziyVcE0zA
When in Taipei take the new gondola on a sunny day up to Maokong, an old tea growing region that’s dotted with teahouses overlooking the city. Also some lovely trails. This is my neighborhood.
Caoling Historic Trail on the NE coast. Both LP and RG agree it is probably the best day hike. Start early and bring a sun umbrella as you go along a long ridge overlooking the ocean.
Juifen and Jinguashi are pretty cool as well, as the lush green treeless hills overlooking the ocean are super scenic.
For museums don’t miss the Guqifeng Museum in Xinzhu. It’s a private collection of antiquities that include 2m long jade boats, a pure jade bed, bizarre statuary and the longest jade panel in the world. It’s little known, and most of the works are just piled up in a warehouse. Don’t miss it:
Another small museum is the stone lion museum on the NE coast near Toucheng. A personal collection of thousands of stone lions, some going back to the Ming dynasty. Also, the boutique hotel here is a great place for lunch.
Mucha Man -
Do you post details of your upcoming trips on the hiking thread? I’d love to accompany you if I’m able.
I’m heading to Yushan after arrival (climb with Barking Deer), then will be a free spirit for the rest of my time.
I’m planning to haul a tent in hopes of finding good places to camp. Is that a reasonable idea given the inclement weather? I don’t mind getting rained on, but I’d prefer not to die.
I was thinking about heading back for a day or two in Chaiyi, then going South and hitching the East/West highway and up the East coast - stopping whenever the mood hits me. Then ending in Taipai for museums, etc. If I look pitiful enough, maybe they will give me a ride from time to time.
As a novice traveler in Taiwan - is that a good plan? Do you have recommendations?
[quote=“kmm005”]Muzha Man -
Do you post details of your upcoming trips on the hiking thread? I’d love to accompany you if I’m able.
I’m heading to Yushan after arrival (climb with Barking Deer), then will be a free spirit for the rest of my time.
I’m planning to haul a tent in hopes of finding good places to camp. Is that a reasonable idea given the inclement weather? I don’t mind getting rained on, but I’d prefer not to die.
I was thinking about heading back for a day or two in Jiayi, then going South and hitching the East/West highway and up the East coast - stopping whenever the mood hits me. Then ending in Taipai for museums, etc. If I look pitiful enough, maybe they will give me a ride from time to time.
As a novice traveler in Taiwan - is that a good plan? Do you have recommendations?[/quote]
Bring a tent, though be aware that it can get pretty damn hot in a tent in the morning. Expect to be up early if it’s a sunny day.
By the east-west highway I take it you mean the South Cross island. Lot of damage from the last typhoon but if my permits come I’ll be starting a hike off that this weekend. Will let you know how it is.
I’m also going on that Yushan hike so we can talk more then.