Just go to a hardware store and get a file and do it yourself. If they are really dull you would need to file them down with steel before ever putting them on a stone. File might cost 30 TWD with a handle.
That reminds me, in Mexico we had this old guy who would peddle about on a bike with a pedal-driven whetstone setup, and he would professionally sharpen your knives, machetes, etc. for a few pesos.
Anyway, you don’t necessarily need a file; you can just get two whetstones, one coarse and one fine.
I would NEVER take a file(!) to a good knife! Madness! As DB says, a couple of whetstones are all you need and maybe an Arkansas stone or a cook’s steel for finishing.
Now if only that would work for scissors and serrated edge knives! But it don’t!
Why wouldn’t it work for scissors?
Of course it does! As long as you have a rat-tail whetstone (around NT$20). By all means use a file for sharpening saws, but not for "good quality cook’s knives.
I tried. But, for some reason, while the knife was razor sharp when I bought it, I could never get close to that after AND it didn’t keep what edge I was able to manage.
I bought another knife. Now I have three and two are dull. I just keep them, hoping I can find someone who knows how to do it correctly.
I have been a knife maker for 30 years and yes, you always use a file to get down to were you can use a wetstone to finish sharpening. A dull steel blade that is of hard steel will never sharpen on a stone alone. In fact, a course stone will ruin the blade. What you buy at the store has already been “filed down” so yes, every knife you buiy has had a file in its past.
The grind has to be VERY straight so the cutting edges match up across the full length. It takes a machine to get that accuracy.
Why is that? If you’re willing to use a file on the blade (I don’t) and then a whetstone, why and how exactly would use of a coarse whetstone before using a finer one somehow ‘ruin’ the blade? It doesn’t seem intuitive to me.
I just did a few of mine on a whetstone. Works like a charm once you get the hang of it.
And I’ve been using and sharpening knives, saws, chisels, planes, and pretty much any and every other kind of blade imaginable for 45 years. Therefore EYE win. 
OP, trust me and DB – don’t use a file!
Actually scissors are not straight. They are curved and spring-loaded against each other. The meeting point of the blades moves from tip to pivot as the scissors close.
If its that important to ya then ok, you win. However I think you all are thinking steel files. I am talking diamond files that not only sharpen but clean up the edges on cheap steel. If you use very hard steel like I used to use on hunting knives, it would take a year on a wet stone to sharpen a knife.
But to each his own. Just be sure to remember, a dull knife cuts but a bad women cuts deeper. 
On the subject of knives… I am sick of soft steels because I bought planes with soft steel irons, soft chisels, knives, etc.
With those wooden planes here where it takes forever to remove the iron and sharpen it, then put it back in and position it correctly, having steels so soft that I have to sharpen it after one or two strokes is pissing me off. I wish I can find woodworking tools made from good German steel… sadly all they got are Japanese and I don’t like it that much because they tend to be brittle.
As for knives, I found a cheap knife at Carrefour that must be sharpened after a few uses (I use a 300 grit diamond stone for this, if I go any finer it just “dulls” the blade because I just took away the micro-serration that does the cutting). I heard they got those Kinman knives made from bomb shells or something… how good are they?
[quote=“Dragonbones”]That reminds me, in Mexico we had this old guy who would peddle about on a bike with a pedal-driven whetstone setup, and he would professionally sharpen your knives, machetes, etc. for a few pesos.
.[/quote]
There even used to be a guy with a little truck who drove down the street back in nyc playing like an ice cream truck song and did it. i think i saw him not too long ago.
[quote=“Tempo Gain”][quote=“Dragonbones”]That reminds me, in Mexico we had this old guy who would peddle about on a bike with a pedal-driven whetstone setup, and he would professionally sharpen your knives, machetes, etc. for a few pesos.
.[/quote]
There even used to be a guy with a little truck who drove down the street back in NYC playing like an ice cream truck song and did it. I think I saw him not too long ago.[/quote]
Ditto in India. And me too, saw the guy two days ago!
Buy a ‘steel’ to keep the ‘edge’ on your knife, and only cut on soft surfaces, never use one of these glass cutting boards … once in a while use a wet stone or two, if needed send it in to be sharpened professionally if you don’t know what you’re doing …
[quote]Knife care
#1
Find a good place to keep your knives. Suitable places would be in a knife block or in a drawer (but only if they are in a sheath, as the knives could be damaged otherwise).
#2
Clean your knives after each use. For knives that are supposed to be hand washed, take a soapy cloth and gently scrub the knife, then wash it off with hot water. Dry with a clean cloth.
#3
Keep your knives dry. For example, if you have a carbon steel kitchen knife, it can be rusting even if it does not appear to be doing so. Carbon steel kitchen knives should be oiled with food-grade mineral oil immediately after use to help prevent corrosion.
#4
Steel your knives regularly. A knife’s edge has a tendency to roll towards either side of the edge, and decrease cutting power. To steel a blade, hold the knife flat against a surface and slide it along, gradually raising the back of the blade until it JUST begins to cut into the surface. From there, take your steel in one hand, and hold the back corner of the knife’s edge to the end of the steel closest to you. “Sweep” the blade towards the tip of the steel, making sure that all of the length of the blade comes in contact with the steel. Do this ten times for each side of the blade.
#5
The most common cause of wear of the cutting edge of a knife is due to contact with the cutting board surface. Boards made of glass, ceramic, marble etc are completely useless, they damage the cutting edge in the first cut. Wooden and plastic boards are better and have a much lower dulling effect. For the best result use very soft disposable paper or card cutting board.[/quote]
揣而銳之，不可長保。 
I got one of those from my Kinmen trip (Maestro Wu - actually made from propaganda artillery shells, not bombs or anything that actually explodes), but not being a knife expert or even intensive knife user, I can’t compare much. I saw you can get those a few meters uphill from Eddy’s Cantina in Danshui as well, and probably at thousands of other places.
It sounds like total marketing bullshit to me, but they claimed something like “the steel is more dense (whatever that means) and can be made sharper”. My impression is that the knife keeps nice and sharp, and doesn’t seem to rust much at all (even though I was warned that this is the downside of those knifes). I like it alongside my Kyocera ceramics knife, maybe because of the unique history…