So… I have this love and hate feelings towards Taiwan. Every time I fly back and see the Western side of the island, with all the shit in the air and all that tin covering the land, I feel sick. It makes me sad. I hate it.
However, last year I loved for the first time to see Taiwan from the plane: it was a totally different view, I was on the way to Ishigaki and could see the norther part from above, the coast, YangMingShan, the multiple layers of mountains in the East coast… and I just loved it again.
When was that time that you felt you loved this land/country?
“I can’t say what made me fall in love with Vietnam - that a woman’s voice can drug you; that everything is so intense. The colors, the taste, even the rain. Nothing like the filthy rain in London. They say whatever you’re looking for, you will find here. They say you come to Vietnam and you understand a lot in a few minutes, but the rest has got to be lived. The smell: that’s the first thing that hits you, promising everything in exchange for your soul. And the heat. Your shirt is straightaway a rag. You can hardly remember your name, or what you came to escape from. But at night, there’s a breeze. The river is beautiful. You could be forgiven for thinking there was no war; that the gunshots were fireworks; that only pleasure matters. A pipe of opium, or the touch of a girl who might tell you she loves you. And then, something happens, as you knew it would. And nothing can ever be the same again.”
“I can’t say what made me fall in love with Yilan - that the rain can drug you; that everything is so wet. The colors of the rain, the taste of the rain, even the rain. Nothing like the filthy rain in London. They say whatever you’re looking for, it will be rain. They say you come to Yilan and you understand a lot in a few minutes, but the rest has got to be rain. The rain: that’s the first thing that hits you, promising everything in exchange for your soul. And the rain. Your shirt is straightaway a rag. You can hardly remember your name, or what you came to escape from. But at night, there’s the rain. The river is beautiful. You could be forgiven for thinking there was no sun; that the raindrops were fireworks; that only pleasure matters. A pipe of rain, or the touch of a raindrop that might tell you she loves you. And then, something happens, as you knew it would: it rains. And nothing can ever be dry again.”
Probably after conscription. I felt like I actually put in something for the country. Even though in reality we just sat around and marched here and there. But still, it was a commitment.
In 1999. It was the juxtaposition of modern and archaic. I could see a farmer guiding an oxen in the paddy with skyscrapers for a backdrop. It was the friendliness of the people to open their homes to you. It was always feeling safe. The mountains, the rivers, the public transportation… I was 22. I rented a car and drove the island. Not allowed back home. I could drink a beer while walking down the street. Not allowed back home. So many things
This stinking heaving foul and oppressive place
has got to me again
I walk slowly along Sukumvit searching for the shadows
clenching my anal cheeks to prevent leakage
the sun beating me through polluted sky
the stench from the drains is making me gag
home to the millions of rodents
their playground amongst this madness
as I wallow in self pity
I try and learn a language
of a culture that is so alien to me
and which I will never understand
but fascinates me no end
the bane of all travellers
that which afflicts me
in such a lonely
living
hades
I fell in love with Japan and to a lesser extent, Korea. Now I work in Taiwan, because my wife is Taiwanese. I like the country, but I don’t love it. It’s… fine. I really enjoyed my first few months exploring, but the novelty of the temples, nature walks, and new exotic food, was replaced by frustrations about scooter traffic, pollution, silly superstitions, and missing good western food. But I love my wife more than anything and she’s a part of this place, so I’m still happier here than I was when I was alone (or with a lesser ex) and lived elsewhere.
I guess I love Asia as a whole, rather than Taiwan in particular. But certainly, I’ve had some great experiences here, even though it wouldn’t rank at the top of places I’ve lived.