hello can someone give me some site for car speakers? seems to me every store I go to they all got different brands lol…there are so many brands…a lot are fake and made in Taiwan I bet…can someone point me to the right direction thanks…oh and can I trust their installation with my new car…I saw on news that one guy went to get a car wash and the car wash place gave the car to another guy/theft lol…that’s bad
You can get wiring and insulation supplies very cheaply here. You can also get subwoofer enclosures made here for reasonable prices. Just don’t buy car audio electronics or drivers in Taiwan. The good stuff is horribly overpriced and the junk… is really awful junk. I buy all my hardware in the US and install/tune it myself.
do they ship internationally or you get it when you go back…ya I was looking at this alpine type r speaker it’s like 300 USD…in the states it’s only 200…sucks
I’ve had stuff shipped when I was in a hurry for it, but I usually I wait until a buddy is coming out here and make him lug it with! 
The poor slob that brought my sub over almost got a hernia. I’m an asshole. 
damn I want my speakers now…the stock speaers are just horrible…what’s worse if I have to drive slowly tobreak in the car…imaging driving so slowly in a wrx with shitty speakers in shitty traffic on shitty roads lol…I guess I need to spend the buck to get those speaekrs or find some other ways to get it cheaper
Actually, the stock paper cone speakers that Subaru specs aren’t too bad. They take up to about 80W if you don’t ask them to play below about 80hz. What I would do is mat / seal the doors and buy / install a simple 2 channel amp of about 100W. You can get some line-out converters so you can keep your stock head unit for now. While you have the carpet up to install the amp, put some more mat on the parts of the floor they missed at the factory, and then put a layer of the usual 1/2" thick carpet underlay under there. The Impreza’s floorpan is really, really stiff so it makes a great speaker diaphragm for the suspension and engine mounts to play. Quiet that down and your whole noise floor drops 10dB or so.
That should keep you busy/happy until you get back to the land of cheap car audio gear for some shopping.
BTW, does the '06 come with tweeters in the door handles, or did they skimp on that?
if i were driving a rex, i wouldn’t care about speakers… the sound of the boxer engine is bliss to the ears…
[quote=“redwagon”]Actually, the stock paper cone speakers that Subaru specs aren’t too bad. They take up to about 80W if you don’t ask them to play below about 80hz. What I would do is mat / seal the doors and buy / install a simple 2 channel amp of about 100W. You can get some line-out converters so you can keep your stock head unit for now. While you have the carpet up to install the amp, put some more mat on the parts of the floor they missed at the factory, and then put a layer of the usual 1/2" thick carpet underlay under there. The Impreza’s floorpan is really, really stiff so it makes a great speaker diaphragm for the suspension and engine mounts to play. Quiet that down and your whole noise floor drops 10dB or so.
That should keep you busy/happy until you get back to the land of cheap car audio gear for some shopping.
BTW, does the '06 come with tweeters in the door handles, or did they skimp on that?[/quote]
that was pretty informative…but I think I will switch out the speakers…stock speakers for most car are just sucky heh
ya 06 got tweeters in the door handles…and rear speakers are located in the doors as well…not in the back of the car like I thought…
this guy says if I want to upgrade speakers just upgrade the fronts and forget about the rears…since you dont’ really hear the rear at all…is that so
Trust me, the reason the sound is so bad is your head unit. It’s an OEM deck which is made to look as bling as possible at the lowest price. Almost all head units lack a stepping transformer and thus have a real power of no more than 17W RMS per channel. You turn it up and very quickly drive it’s puny little amplifier into clipping. You are going to be disappointed if you just install an aftermarket component set since the efficiencies are usually LOWER than the OEM drivers. Sound quality as often as not comes at the cost of some efficiency. The sound will be a little bit cleaner, but you will drive the head unit into distortion at an lower level than with the stockers. Take my word on this, I have run both ways and an external amp on the stock speakers sounds waaay better (not to mention much louder) than the head unit’s own power on comps. Especially in car audio, current is everything. If I’m not mistaken your OE head unit is made by Panasonic. It’s really not that great. You can run an amp off it with some LOCs, but plan on upgrading to an aftermarket deck with pre-outs later if you want real sound quality.
The one single thing you could do right now is to install capacitors into the speaker wires to block low bass frequencies from the stock drivers. A cheap 6.5" midwoofer with like 4mm of excursion cannot possibly reproduce bass frequencies below about 80hz without bottoming out and sounding like ass. If you attenuate the bass frequencies you leave more headroom for the midrange which the driver can reproduce more efficiently anyway. You need to splice a pair of 500uF capacitors with a current rating of at least 17W into the positive lead to each woofer. Don’t buy electrolytics as they sound awful, they are marked for polarity so that’s easy to spot. Bass reproduction is best left to a subwoofer or two and a dedicated amplifier.
Another problem we face is that the Impreza has very shallow doors and the window mech takes up a lot of space. Maximum depth for a midwoofer is 81mm, though it’s a bitch to fit anything deeper than about 76mm… you need to fab custom spacers and trim the door panels to squeeze them in. The lower you want a driver to run, the more excursion it needs. The more excursion you have the deeper the driver chassis has to be. So in the end you need a subwoofer if your system is going to have any low end extension at all. Then you can cross your mid and sub bass at 80hz or so and it makes the driver selection task much easier.
As to rear fill: Rear fill is the devil. If you have enough power on the front stage you do not need rear fill, and in fact it interferes with the front stage. Read this: betteraudio.com/geolemon/Mul … ltiple.htm
Sorry about the novel.
That’s correct…I installed a $25K Morel speakers to replace the front speakers and leave the rear speaker stock…I also installed 12" sub, 5chn amp and 1m capacitor…all made by SoundStream…and I’m very happy with the sound now…if you ever in taipei, I can take you to my shop…they are not cheap though but they are very good in tuning your audio and they sell only high-end/quality audio brand…no Taiwan brand at all…
^^^ Throw the capacitor away and it will be even better. Trust me on this. SS and Morel eh? Nice. 
Why?..I thought capacitor is a"must have" if you install a sub to prevent lack of electricity
Care to share your current system, Redwagon?
There’s a very long and detailed explanation for this. Fortunately, I don’t have the time to go into it. Suffice it to say that capacitors rated at (say) a farad are only being asked to meet a demand over the voltage difference between the system voltage and what the rail on the amp has dropped to. That’s a tiny fraction of that farad rating, so little in fact it makes no measureable difference at the amplifier’s output transistor supply rail whether it’s there or not. On top of that, the time it takes the capacitor to drop it’s available current into the system is so long the voltage sag (like on a big bass hit) is over by the time the cap does it’s thing. Yes, there is some voltage smoothing going on with a cap in the circuit, and that does help with headlight dimming, but the net effect is to actually reduce the RMS system voltage because the cap needs charging and it’s far from being 100% efficient. You actually put more load on the alternator and there’s still less RMS voltage available at the supply rail.
To prevent ‘lack of electricity’ you concentrate on the following: Current.
Sufficiently large power and ground cables for the application, including the ‘big three’. Big three refers to the line from the alternator to the battery, the engine to battery ground and chassis to battery ground. If you don’t have enough copper here, nothing else will help at all. Next, the alternator… does that have enough capacity for the demand?
Here is a really handy calculator for system design: bcae1.com/images/swfs/system … istant.swf
Right now I’m running nothing expensive, fancy or large, it’s a simple wannabe-SQ setup.
Fully matted and sealed front doors. (Impossible to get midbass without this)
Fully matted and insulated floor. (Lowers noise floor so you need less system power)
Clarion DXZ435MP. (Nice simple deck with 6 pre-outs, decent crossover, dedicated subwoofer controls and good DACs)
8ga big three. (Current)
Dual 8ga power and ground to my two amps. (Current)
100W RMS x 2 channel amp for front stage.
Separate 300W RMS (bridged) amp for subwoofer.
Image Dynamics IDQ10D2V2 subwoofer in sealed (28 liter, Q=0.63) enclosure fed by a very short run of 10ga.
Infinity Reference components on 18ga all the way from the amps to the xovers and drivers.
I’m using budget amplifiers because when it comes down to it, a watt is a watt. All class AB amps these days have distortion figures below what the human ear can detect, and my amps are hidden away under the seats anyway. Sooner or later I will upgrade to class D mono sub amp for more power, but so far I’m happy with it. I have no rear fill… I removed the rear drivers and tossed them in the trash where they belong, and tore out the wiring. I have a wagon, so I have the sub aimed at the rear glass for the longest bass wave possible (after bouncing back into the cabin) and get about a 4dB gain from that alone. My weak link atm is those Infinity components because they lack a little in high end definition (silk tweeters) and suck at midbass. 
OTOH they are very easy on the ears, the mids are extremely well installed in the doors and the tweeters were located and aimed with the aid of a professional 4-channel spectrographic analyzer and microphone which cost over half a mil (perks of my job). I also used this rig to tune the crossover points and slopes, as well as the eq on the deck. I own a 1f capacitor but it’s hidden in a closet at home.
Surely you’re an expert on this…I’ll try this capacitor thing later…BTW, maybe u should try morel…mine got a smooth tweeter and great mid bass, but the vocal (mid range) is not “thick” enough if you know what I mean…the higher/highest level of morel are much better but much2x more expensive (up to $60k here)…I also thought about doing a three-way system in the front but then I have to re-do the door panel…and that’s ma-fan…
No mate, I’m no expert… I just read a few books and played around with a few things. I would love to try your Morels. Shall I PM you my mailing address? 
As I mentioned earlier to ironfist, we Subie guys have a serious depth problem in our doors. In a sort of variation of Hoffman’s Iron Law, we have a list of three desirable attributes: Shallow mounting depth, reasonable price and good midbass performance. Pick any two. 
Honestly, the Impreza is a bad platform for a real SQ car, so the Morels would be a waste as soon as the car is moving under it’s own power.
IIWY I’d stick with a two-way system for simplicity, unless you want to fabricate kick panels. But, and I can’t stress this enough, as far as staging goes everything depends on how you phase and mount the tweeters. They have to be as far from the listener’s ears as possible and aimed until the system images properly. That’s the part that seperates the experts from the dabblers (like me). As to midbass, well I already spilled what I know there. As frequency drops the wavelength increases… we all know this from highschool physics. We also know that waves can either build one of top of the other or they can cancel each other out. If you let the waves the back of the drivers are making leak out of the door they will interfere with the waves coming off the front, which is bad. It gets worse with every octave you go down.
It’s really hard to recommend drivers or component sets to people, it’s kind of like choosing underwear for strangers. Everyone’s ears are different. I loved the Morel tweeters I’ve heard but I was not really sold on the midranges. I kinda prefer the scandinavian drivers for the warmth at the expense of a little detail. You might like the Focals for the meaty, precise midrange. I find their tweeters a little harsh. Like I said, it’s all personal preference.
I’m probably going to end up making a hybrid set with my Ref tweeters and some DIY midranges. If I can keep my xovers great, if not it’s cheap to buy caps and coils down at electronics alley. Last time I tried this I got a pair of Vifa PL drivers that I then couldn’t squeeze into my doors. 
Well, Subaru is a performance car, you should listen to the that boxer engine revving rather than SQ …anyway, I didn’t do anything fancy on my car audio here, just plain and simple…but please pm me if you want to try the morel…I want to hear yours too 
Performance car? What’s that? Those cars that make a lot of noise and accelerate away from lights a little faster than my scooter…is that what you mean? I’m confused.
The Spice Girls sound just great on the CD player in my Sentra, that’s for sure, but then, they’d sound just great anywhere, so its not really a fair comparison, I know…
:blah:
@ Mordeth: :blah: