That realization is an important milestone on the road to Enlightenment:
Anakin thought padme was going to die…
Spoiler Alert.
She did
Om Padme OH, if one got some springs and/or bits of bungee and calibrated them with weights, one might be able to improvise a fairly versatile (if a bit cumbersome/primitive) torque wrenching capability at very little cost…Humm…that’d probably fit.
Turns out I did have to take the head off again, because (against my better judgement) I followed the manual’s suggestion and attempted to lock the camshaft with a screwdriver. This was quite obviously never going to work, and sho nuf the cam sprocket shifted and jammed.
Dont seem to have bent the valves, since I can turn the camshaft with the head off. I still cant torque it though, since although I can get the torque wrench on it, I still dont have any way of locking it, and its harder to deal with wobbling around on the car roof.
Put the head back on. Might try lashings, or maybe securing it with an old cambelt.
I’m quite impressed by the utter bollocks in the manual in this context. The suggestions for locking the crankshaft were similarly reality defying.
I have a torque wrench I’m not using. You want it?
But seriously, a torque wrench isn’t expensive.
If you don’t have the right tools, either buy the right tools or take it to someone who has the right tools.
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I have a torque wrench. Hence “although I can get the torque wrench on it” in the post immediately above.
You thought I just made up the torque measurements in the earlier headbolt torquing graphs?
Its a cheapo torsion beam type. Not very precise but they are more robust than the “clicky” type, which is why I brought it back from the Yook. Cant get them in Taiwan, according to the Ktown tool shops.
There isn’t clearance to use it on any bolts on the front end of the engine when its in the car, apart from the crankshaft pulley bolt, which is accessible through a port in the wheel well. I cant get a ratchet or a breaker bar on them either so its likely any torque wrench won’t fit.
IOW there probably isn’t a “right tool”
I have to use ring or open-ended spanners on these other bolts, but in theory one could apply a measured force to these with a calibrated spring, giving a torquing capability.
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these type?
Dunno mate.
Might as well be in Chinese. Look like some kind of login screens.
Like I said, I have a torque wrench, which I brought back from the UK after looking for a torsion beam type in Ktown and getting the Universal M-word.
This was before I’d heard of Shopee, and probably before it existed.
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well a picture is worth a thousand words
Shoppe is my fall back solution to get stuff, I to look before I buy but not always possible living in Pingtung.
Yes, that appears to be a torsion beam type.
There was a nice old Sturtevant on Ebay that had allegedly been used on B17’s during WW2, and it was a tempting price, but shipping charges from the US put me off.
As I understand it, that is the basic principle of Chinese.
QED
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Since y’all like pictures, heres the pretty graphs of the re-torqeuing. I used the torque-to-turn-translation (tturnslation?) method for aluslip lubricated bolts as before.
Recorded torque values are higher this time, perhaps due to the thinning out of the aluslip and/or compression of the gasket.
If I have to do it again (hope not) I’ll likely top up the aluslip a bit.
Bolt 2 (2nd in tightening sequence, not position 2) doesnt gain any torque between the penultimate and final turn, which seems odd, but happened last time. so it also seems consistent. I’d guess this is due to the turning of bolt 1 unloading it.
The increase in torque does seem to support the “received wisdom” that you shouldn’t re-use head gaskets (though I have re used one on an 1800 BMC B series with no issues, and you have to re-use at least once to use this torque translation technique).
Probably contra-indicates installing this gasket again, or indicates reverting to a torque limited procedure if I did re-use it.
If I have to take the head off again, I might re-use the original gasket, (which has only been installed once, though of course its been in the engine for 12 years) or maybe even break down and buy yet another head gasket.
Is the head gasket something that must be made to order, or can it be applied to the head like a liquid compound, or can it just be a sheet of material that can be laser cut to the exact specification of your engine?
I can get a composite type gasket (the cheapest, lowest performance type) for this engine for 500NT so making one (which I’d class as a fairly desperate measure) isnt likely to be worthwhile.
Here’s UT on head gasket history, though there are some types, notably copper, that he doesn’t mention. (skip the first 5 mins or so).
He reckons you can re-use the composite type, though that isn’t “received opinion”, and the increase in torque I note above wouldn’t encourage this.
Doubt a liquid-only head gasket is a great idea, though I have heard of engines that didn’t use a head gasket, so I suppose it could just possibly work.
Cutting out from a (steel, aluminium or copper) sheet MIGHT work, especially on a simple air-cooled engine, but gaskets generally have some embossing (as a minimum), integrated fire rings, or separate copper wire or machined stainless steel fire rings to aid sealing. In the latter case the block has machined grooves to accept the ring and help it seal.
Here’s some fun-loving Russians doing one for a Lada, which they got cut with a water jet. Didn’t work.
(a) Triple layer, which is probably asking for woe, woe and thrice woe.
(b) No sealant. I’d have used some, especially between the layers if I was going multi-layer
(c) No fire ring. Maybe you could get away with that if you addressed (a) and/or (b), maybe not.
Ok, I had no idea a head gasket was that complicated. I was assuming it was made of 1mm thick rubber sheet that I can laser out. I guess it makes sense it’s made of soft metal rather than rubber.
While there are lasers that can cut aluminum a 70 watt CO2 laser isn’t one of them. To cut steel you need a minimum of 300 watts in CO2, and this is only for steel or stainless. Not copper, aluminum, or anything else. Fiber laser will cut aluminum but at that point you might as well use CNC plasma.
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Case in point. I wanted some std weights to calibrate my home made torquing thing. This is 5 somethings. kgs?, pounds? Catty’s? Something even more ethnic/atavistic? Or just an arbitary series number? Asked the GF what the Chinese said.
“It just says what it is” (?!) “They are probably kilos”
Ah. So in this case a word is worth exactly the same as a picture I already have. i.e. bugger all.
According to the nearest clinic scale (accuracy unknown) its about 1.9kgs, which doesnt seem to be 5 of anything obvious.
Or is that a stylised 2?
In which case its those Arabs at fault.
They are an absolute shower!
(Picture upload don’t work from LXLE via Librewolf browser, had to boot back intae Windaes, which is a pain)
No torque wrench, no problem?
I’m using the luggage scale method outlined here, except I dont have a luggage scale.
Crude substitute is half a bike inner tube, cut ends knotted together, with a few turns of Norfolk whipping bootlace above the knot, finished in a reef knot. Shorter loose end is tied to the spanner, longer gets used to measure (and limit) the applied tension. Steel tube through inner tube loop forms T-handle for the pull.
Calibrated by hanging a jerrycan from it and filling with water. (1L water taken as 1kg.) supplemented with 2 X1.9kg iron weights. Not VERY linear (deviations seem to be after loading up the iron) but probably close enough.
Torque = Force X length =mgL
Torque spec. for cam pulley bolt 40nm. Ring spanner 0.22m long ring to ring
m =40/(9.8X0.22) =18.55kg
from above regression line eqn, length for this force =1.65x18.55+25.13 =55,73cms
Snags? (apart from maybe getting the arithmetic wrong)
(a) If that spanner comes off it likely whack the operator pretty hard. Should probably give it a tether.
(b) A “clicky” torque wrench stops applying torque as soon as the spring pressure is exceeded. With this the operator has to stop applying torque, as with the torsion beam type. Likely both clicky and these are affected by how they are used, but to different extents.