My front brake’s started squeaking a bit. Not consistently, just on and off. The brake still has plenty of power, but I’m guessing that the squeaking means time to get a new pad. Is that correct?
If I do need a new pad, is it worth getting a high performance one? (Do they even make them in scooter sizes?) The brake power’s good at the moment, certainly better than on any other little scooter/motorbike I’ve ridden here. But more power is always nice, as long as it doesn’t end up being too much more expensive in the long run.
[quote=“Jack Burton”]Ren’t you supposed to look at the physical thickness and wear and tear? Sometimes, the squeaking could mean the contact pad needs to be cleaned, no?[/quote]Look at things? I might get my hands dirty! Isn’t that what mechanics are for?
I’m sure you’re right. I was hoping for a more hands-off solution but it makes sense to check the situation before replacing pads.
when you get new pads make sure (as good as you can) that you don’t get fake ones. once i was unlucky enough to get some, after about a 100km they looked and felt like glass. sure in some ways they were, too. so i had to buy yet another pair of pads. :loco:
[quote=“joesax”][quote=“Jack Burton”]Ren’t you supposed to look at the physical thickness and wear and tear? Sometimes, the squeaking could mean the contact pad needs to be cleaned, no?[/quote]Look at things? I might get my hands dirty! Isn’t that what mechanics are for?
I’m sure you’re right. I was hoping for a more hands-off solution but it makes sense to check the situation before replacing pads.[/quote]
well, hey, if you’re rolling in cash-money, and can’t afford to get your nails broken, then go ahead, have your servant buy the pads, install them, and test them for you.
Actually, I knew I had to replace my pads when on using them heavily, I spelt burning rubber or something.
Do you get the noise when applying the brake, or when it’s ‘off’?
Chances are the caliper mech is dirty and that leaves the pad in constant, light contact with the disk. That glazes the pad and then even if it’s not worn, it will squeal.
Or it could be that the grease on the anti-squeal shim is old and hard or just plain gone. Either way you need to pull the caliper apart and clean it with brake parts cleaner, then lube the sliding pins and shims with high temp brake grease.
Better yet, leave it with your mechanic while you go get your nails painted.
[quote=“redwagon”]Do you get the noise when applying the brake, or when it’s ‘off’?Better yet, leave it with your mechanic while you go get your nails painted. [/quote]Just when applying the brake. Through the brake lever, the caliper action feels fine: nice and progressive and not at all stiff or jerky. So maybe it’s the second thing you mentioned: the anti-squeal shim.
So don’t scooter brake pads have the squealing “built-in” to tell you when it’s time to change them?
[quote=“redwagon”]Better yet, leave it with your mechanic while you go get your nails painted. [/quote]Hmm. I’m a bit concerned about this “girly man” impression I seem to be making on the forum, what with my reluctance to get my hands dirty and my liking for cocktails. Better nip this in the bud now by posting on the beer thread.
[quote=“joesax”][quote=“redwagon”]Do you get the noise when applying the brake, or when it’s ‘off’?Better yet, leave it with your mechanic while you go get your nails painted. [/quote]Just when applying the brake. Through the brake lever, the caliper action feels fine: nice and progressive and not at all stiff or jerky. So maybe it’s the second thing you mentioned: the anti-squeal shim.
So don’t scooter brake pads have the squealing “built-in” to tell you when it’s time to change them?
Sorry Joe, I missed the reply.
No, none of the motorcycle calipers I’ve seen have those tags on the shims to start the squealing sound as the pad materials wears to the limit. Motorcycle pads are so easily visible to the owner there’s not much excuse for fitting them. On a car you have to remove the wheel to get a look at the pads.
If the brake action seems okay then I’d clean the caliper anyway before greasing the shims. You may as well do this while you’re in there. Or rather, while Ah-huang is in there.
I bet you drink that Belgian fruit beer that is so popular with the hsiaojies these days…
[quote=“joesax”][quote=“redwagon”]Do you get the noise when applying the brake, or when it’s ‘off’?Better yet, leave it with your mechanic while you go get your nails painted. [/quote]Just when applying the brake. Through the brake lever, the caliper action feels fine: nice and progressive and not at all stiff or jerky. So maybe it’s the second thing you mentioned: the anti-squeal shim.
So don’t scooter brake pads have the squealing “built-in” to tell you when it’s time to change them?
[quote]If the brake action seems okay then I’d clean the caliper anyway before greasing the shims. You may as well do this while you’re in there. Or rather, while Ah-huang is in there.[/quote]Cheers, Redwagon. I think the brake fluid’s due for replacing anyway so I’ll get that done at the same time.
[quote]I bet you drink that Belgian fruit beer that is so popular with the hsiaojies these days… [/quote]Even worse. I fruitify my own beer! forumosa.com/taiwan/viewtopi … 589#595589
What’s your own opinion for motorcycle oil changes for a new bike in the first year?
per the manufacturer ie 500 miles for first
or even more aggressive because of metal shavings etc ie 200 miles for first change
?[/quote]I’m not really the guy to ask about this. But I’ve done it like this: 100km or less for first change, then at 500km, and thereafter at 1000km or so.
Some people say that the first batch of oil (that you use for the first 100km) should be mineral oil, not synthetic. Not quite sure why, and not sure whether it’s necessary.
There are a few decent threads on the forum about breaking in new engines. Mordeth’s an adherent of the “hard break-in” school, whereas most other people prefer a gentler approach.
[/quote]Just when applying the brake. Through the brake lever, the caliper action feels fine: nice and progressive and not at all stiff or jerky. So maybe it’s the second thing you mentioned: the anti-squeal shim.