Everything came together yesterday (weather good, family out of town) - so I threw the bike in the car and headed back up the Shoufeng River. Cycled in the same 2km, but at the point where last year the path had stopped amidst rocks and boulders, now there was a clear bulldozed track continuing along the south bank of the river. This continued easily up the valley for 6km, didn’t have to cross the main river at all. There were a few small fords of side-valley tributaries, but the water was only ankle deep, and I rode through them.
I was so intent on following that bulldozed track that I followed it left up the wrong valley for a further km, where it came to a sudden stop. I scrambled on by foot for 20 min, before realising that I’d come too far. Sat down and had b’fast, and when I got back to the bike there were guys working the guai-shous, extending the ‘road’. Must be something worth extracting up there.
Rode back down to the fork, and there was a 4x4 just parked up there. 5 folks from Yilan, who were off to spend 2 nights at the Hot Springs. “Did I want to come?”
They seemed to know more than me, though they’d also never been here before. I asked them how far up the valley the springs where - “Oh, about 10 minutes”. So off we went.
2 and a half hours (!) and 9 river crossings later, we got there. I did most of it barefoot, they had full backpacks & river boots, and we used ropes across the river - that was necessary, it was waist deep in places, fast and cold. Crossings 8 & 9 (closest to the springs), could perhaps be avoided by some scrambling, but they weren’t that deep anyway. Crossings 2-4 were the deepest and fastest. The springs themselves are great; clean, hot (of course), 2 medium sized pools taking maybe 5 people max in a really nice valley spot, with a large calm section of river right next-door and perfect for swimming, flat raised platform for camping.
The men went fishing, the girls set up camp, and I walked out on my own - took a while as it’s easier to walk barefoot upstream, you’ve got less momentum and can place your feet more easily. There are plenty of sandy sections, and smooth rocks, but also areas of gravel and small stones. A couple of my return river crossings weren’t pretty - ropeless, and I was keeping a camera dry with the strap clenched in my teeth - but I made it.
I’d recommend a minimum of 2 people w. rope & river boots. It’s a full day in/out, staying overnight there would be wonderful, but then you have to carry more.
Will put up some directions and timings later.
but honestly it was pretty miraculous and one of the more amazing natural wonders I’ve seen in my life.
.