Hi,
Can anyone give me an idea about the approximate cost for a pair of front shock absorbers for a Ford Liata? The top caps of my car’s shocks (the one visible when you open the bonnet) are cracked and the mechanic recommends that I change them before they give way. Besides one of the shocks is not very good either – as per the diagnostic tests suggested by sulavaca a while ago. Which would be more economical – original or after-market shocks? Any specific after-market models to recommend?
Also, the same workshop quoted me NTD1200 to clean the fuel injectors (in place cleaning). Is this very high?
Thanks in advance,
Hari
After market shocks can vary in price by a large margin. Usually if you say aftermarket to a local garage with a car such as yours (not to suggest it isn’t a good car) they will assume you want to go for the cheapest however, which can be between 5~6 thousand for a pair usually. The strut tops normally come separately to the shock absorbers and you may also need to replace any rubber bump stops and stanchion protecting outer rubbers, basically a whole strut assembly then.
I would recommend the original manufacturer’s shocks as they tend to last longer than the cheapest local brand shocks, plus they offer much better performance than some of the Taiwan/China no brand shocks. You shouldn’t have to pay much more for them either.
It is also likely that if the front shocks are in need of replacement, then the rear might also be in need.
Also remember to have your wheels/steering re-aligned once you have changed your suspension components. If you can get it done by the manufacturer’s service centre then that’s best, otherwise a specific alignment centre may suffice, but some of the mom and pop tyre centres have a nasty habit of just guessing your alignment angles and may cause early wear to your tyres.
I love the feeling of a fresh set of suspension after replacing old floppy shocks and springs. You’re going to really notice a difference I believe.
sulavaca answered the shock part, i can just advice for the injector cleaning part.
1200 is too much for in place cleaning. I guess they will use some additive added to your fuel. The shops i went to, even i wanted them to remove the injectors and clean told me that machine cleaning the injectors cost so much and over the counter cleaners works well if you put a bottle every 4000km. So i am trying that right now. Also buy gas from CPC only i stop buying from other brands.
[quote=“sulavaca”]After market shocks can vary in price by a large margin. Usually if you say aftermarket to a local garage with a car such as yours (not to suggest it isn’t a good car) they will assume you want to go for the cheapest however, which can be between 5~6 thousand for a pair usually. The strut tops normally come separately to the shock absorbers and you may also need to replace any rubber bump stops and stanchion protecting outer rubbers, basically a whole strut assembly then.
I would recommend the original manufacturer’s shocks as they tend to last longer than the cheapest local brand shocks, plus they offer much better performance than some of the Taiwan/China no brand shocks. You shouldn’t have to pay much more for them either.
It is also likely that if the front shocks are in need of replacement, then the rear might also be in need.
Also remember to have your wheels/steering re-aligned once you have changed your suspension components. If you can get it done by the manufacturer’s service centre then that’s best, otherwise a specific alignment centre may suffice, but some of the mom and pop tyre centres have a nasty habit of just guessing your alignment angles and may cause early wear to your tyres.
I love the feeling of a fresh set of suspension after replacing old floppy shocks and springs. You’re going to really notice a difference I believe.[/quote]
Thanks. I forgot to mention this earlier - the mechanic also mentioned that its better to change the balancing bar – the long horizontal link bar (I’m not sure if I’m explaining this correctly) in the front to which the two struts are connected when the shocks are changed. Is this correct?
Hari
if it is convienent then why don’t you just meet up with sulavaca and ask him to get everything done for you??
if I had my own car now I would just that!! had got so tired of dealing with all the " oh don’t worry I will fix everything for you, sure no problem, no problem " local mechanics that I sold my car and am happy with my scooty for running around town…
just my two cents!!
[quote=“harikvpy”] I forgot to mention this earlier - the mechanic also mentioned that its better to change the balancing bar – the long horizontal link bar (I’m not sure if I’m explaining this correctly) in the front to which the two struts are connected when the shocks are changed. Is this correct?
Hari[/quote]
That sounds like a stiffening bar (strut brace) which has been previously fitted perhaps to the strut tops? If its within the engine compartment, then thats most likely what he’s refering to. If he is then you probably don’t need it replaced as there is little to go wrong with it, although if the previous strut tops were modified, then it is perhaps possible that the new ones may not accomodate the brace. Is it something like this?
If he’s talking about under the car, then he’s most likely refering to the anti roll bar. You would probably not need to change an anti roll bar itself under normal circumstances, but many cars require their bushings and links replacing from time to time. I’m sorry I can’t tell you if yours has the short links on the anti roll bar ends as I don’t recall, but these do tend to corrode and snap on many cars as well as their joints wear out eventually.
The red bar is the anti roll bar in this picture:
This picture shows a basic anti roll bar link assembly:
I think all I have mentioned above should cover anything he may be potentially refering to.
A quick update. I finally managed to find time to talk to the mechanic today. Actually, sulavaca, you’re right. He was referring to the short links at the end of the anti-roll bar and not the whole bar. Anyway, his point is the short links may have to be changed and he would know that for sure only after removing the existing ones.
BTW, he quoted me NTD2900 for a shock assembly - spring + shock and the works. And this is inclusive of his labor. It’s a MIT shock, apparently made by the guys who OEM for Ford. Sounds reasonable to me.
Final update: Got the shocks replaced and wheels re-aligned. Also, replaced the rubber bushes of the anti-roll bar mounts. These bushes cost NTD700 each and I had to get a pair. The short links that connect the anti-roll bar to the suspension were fine and didn’t require replacement.
Changing the suspension makes a world of difference to the ride. The slight rattling noise is gone, ride is a lot firmer and control is much more precise.
Sulavaca, thanks for your timely advise. Though the mechanic that I went to seems like a genuinely honest guy (based on my experience), your inputs were invaluable in giving me the confidence to make, what I feel, the right decisions.
For those looking for a good and reliable mechanic, here’s the address:
Mr.Wong, Jhen Xiang
No 126 Nangang Road Sec-2,
Nangang District.
Phone: 2788-4029
This guy specializes in Continental (Ford/VW/Audi) cars. He used to work in VW and Ford service centers as a mechanic before setting up his own shop. He doesn’t speak English, but his wife does. She’s usually around during late evenings and on Sat. Workshop’s closed on Sunday.
I haven’t been to another mechanic in Taiwan yet, but been to a lot in Singapore (where I was based for number of years and where many mechanics don’t speak English either) and this guy certainly stands out for his honesty and efficiency. I cross-checked the prices of the components he quoted with that from the Ford service center and his prices were way lower.
Hari
Good to know it all went well. The price was spot on too. Now go and check your rear shocks, as its likely they may need some attention if they haven’t previously.
If your tyres start to wear to a slightly rounded profile on the front, then switch them with the tyres from the rear assuming their level of tread is even on both tyres.
Keep an eye on your tyre wear over the coming weeks and months, just in case your front alignment was not set up correctly. You should be checking that the tread on the inside of the tyre is wearing at the same rate as on the outside. If one side is wearing too quickly then its likely that your alignment was not set up correctly, or you have slack in a component somewhere.
[quote=“sulavaca”]
Keep an eye on your tyre wear over the coming weeks and months, just in case your front alignment was not set up correctly. You should be checking that the tread on the inside of the tyre is wearing at the same rate as on the outside. If one side is wearing too quickly then its likely that your alignment was not set up correctly, or you have slack in a component somewhere.[/quote]
A quicker way to spot a problem here is to just make a chalk line across the tire tread and drive a km or two. Any uneven contact will be immediately apparent. Very often, by the time you spot uneven wear on a tire you have already given up many thousands of km worth of tire life, and you are risking life and limb due to the loss of both lateral grip and stopping power. Not to mention that your alignment shop will be much more willing to do the job again the sooner you come back to complain.
[quote=“redwagon”][quote=“sulavaca”]
Keep an eye on your tyre wear over the coming weeks and months, just in case your front alignment was not set up correctly. You should be checking that the tread on the inside of the tyre is wearing at the same rate as on the outside. If one side is wearing too quickly then its likely that your alignment was not set up correctly, or you have slack in a component somewhere.[/quote]
A quicker way to spot a problem here is to just make a chalk line across the tire tread and drive a km or two. Any uneven contact will be immediately apparent. Very often, by the time you spot uneven wear on a tire you have already given up many thousands of km worth of tire life, and you are risking life and limb due to the loss of both lateral grip and stopping power. Not to mention that your alignment shop will be much more willing to do the job again the sooner you come back to complain.[/quote]
Thanks. I’ll try the chalk trick in the coming days.
BTW, do the air-con odour removers such as those available in Carrefour really work? Researching on the Net, it seems like the smell is caused by bacteria & fungi on the condensing coils and these can be removed by spraying a chemical. Do these work as they claim?
[quote=“harikvpy”]
BTW, do the air-con odour removers such as those available in Carrefour really work? Researching on the Net, it seems like the smell is caused by bacteria & fungi on the condensing coils and these can be removed by spraying a chemical. Do these work as they claim?[/quote]
To an extent, but not completely. Spray the air intake to the system liberally with that stuff daily and make sure you have the aircon running anytime you are using the car. If the smell goes away you are in luck. If it doesn’t go away within a couple of weeks you are going to need to have the evaporator removed and properly scrubbed clean. I think on a Galant it won’t be too expensive.