With Dhaba, it’s best to show up just as they open for lunch (prepandemic this was at 11:15 am). Either that or show up for a late lunch, when they can also make dhosas if that’s what you’re craving.
I hope to make it back to Tokyo soon to have a look . . .
Yes! The incredible thing about Tokyo is how highly specialized the restaurants can be. Search hard with key words (say a particular region in France, or west Africa, or whatever you want to try)—there will almost certainly be something available. In that regard, Tokyo is amazing.