Koh Chang, Thailand

Okay, I’ve just made up my mind. The something like 6 Thai massages in less than 24 hours in Sukhomvit, Bangkok have helped me clear my mind and the decision has been made. I will be picked up at my hotel demain matin and be whisked by luxurious chicken bus down to the Thai/Cambodian border town of Trad (4 hours) from which I will then be ferryed across the strait to Koh Chang (45 minutes), all for 700 Baht (1 way).

I know I reported earlier that I was heading for Koh Tao, but what with the 6000+ Baht price tag for flights to Samui and another 1000Baht (return) for the jet boat to Tao, I figure I’ll put up with the chickens. Probably be pretty cool to see some Thai countryside from the ground as I’ve always travelled in the air or on the sea (or by foot).

Ergo, Koh Chang = more diving dollars. Or SCUBaht…if you will…

So, expect another Boracay-esque report on the newest destination in The Kingdom of Smiles in the coming weeks.

I am leaving in the morning. Any other 'umosans been to The Chang? Should I stay on the big island or would anyone have advice about staying on Koh Rang or Koh Maak?

Any must-do dives? Must-experience food? Must-take pics? Must-pay masseusses?

I’m hunting whale shark. When you are hunting whale shark, you have to be vewwy vewwy qwiet. hehehehee

It may have changed in the 13 or so years since I honeymooned there, but it was a shithole then, worst vacation of my life.
Practically no amenites, but Samui level or higher prices nonetheless.
Surly, creepy, predatory, locals, shit overpriced food, warm overpriced beer, dirty overpriced bungalows.
The worst of both undeveloped hideaways and fully developed hotspots, with none of the charm of either.
Like I say, it may have become the new Borocay in the interim, but…
The experience was so bad that I refused to set foot in Thailand for a decade, finally being won over by the stupendous Kuta Beach on Phuket.
Oh, and the boat dock is Trat, with a T.
Hate for you to get on the wrong bus.

That was your honeymoon. :slight_smile:

When I lived in Thailand, I could never be arsed leaving ChonBuri although I did see the bright lights of Samut Prakarn, occasionally. Honestly, I was like the proverbial frog in a well until I moved to BangNa! There was a lovely shaved iced stand between that 7-11 and the scooter repair shop up near the half built overpass. There was a buffalo carcass downwind dumped on some nearby wasteland, but it’s probably odour free by now. Them were the days!

Adds to what was posted in the dope thread.

[quote=“Huang Guang Chen”][quote=“Huang Guang Chen”]Toe, Toe, Toe!

. . . Then it’s off for some decent Thai grub in a groovy joint somewhere along Pra Arthit before catching Khun Pong, and if I’m really lucky, Georgia, at my favourite bar in BKK, if not on the planet, Ad Here the 13th, for some very sweet blues. An excellent day in mind.

HG[/quote][/quote]

Wow! Toe, you really should have called.

Got to the Ad Here and it was surprisingly closed. Nipped next door and found out it was because everyone was at Georgia’s wedding bash. Quick call and off we went. What a superb night! That’s the last you’ll see of Georgia for awhile; shes off to live in the UK. Khun Pong will be putting together a new band.

No idea why you’d stay on Sukhumvit. Well I do, but still don’t understand it. Banglamphu is the bees knees. Just don’t make the mistake of walking down Khao San, in fact stick strictly behind that Wat.

Not been to Koh Chang, but it and Koh Samet are on my horizon. For whale sharks, wouldn’t you need to be further south?

HG

been to chang last year…its over-developed to hell on the main beaches but a good time can still be had…for peace and tranquility and people with dreds and goaties the treehouse (famed GH on lonely beach) has opened a new branch way out of the way on long beach…its pretty idyllic out there…koh rang and koh maak; definitely worth checking out but i haven’t been there. i think one of the two has full amenities now…

some nice bungalows on the water near to lonely beach but watch out for the scorpions i was bit one morning…hell of a wake-up call!

[quote=“the bear”]

but watch out for the scorpions i was bit one morning…hell of a wake-up call![/quote]

:noway:

Yah, I am out past Lonely…hmmmm…sounds kinda pathetic when you think about it…past Lonely? Kinda like being beyond Hope…

and in Spuzzum?

Chief,

It’s nice out here. I just strolled thru the village out past Lonely… and it’s nothing but quaint little restaurants fronting simple bungalows, ( I have 24 hour volts and air con for 700 baht) (before discount). I’ve been chatting with this Montanan logger/Vietnam Vet who was here when you were and he talks about how much difference there is since '94. I’d wager that if and when you come back here, you’d say, “Koh Chang? Koh Change!”

I guess old Thaaksin made this area his pet project and they have new car ferries and lots more, lots deeper development. The pier we launched from to dive today is going thru even more expansion. Someone said something about cruise ships. I’ll check out the pricier/busier end of things in a few days when I rent a bikea and explore. I am just gonna do a whole bunch of dives first.

And avoid the scorpios…scorpios don’t mix with virgos.

Couple of shallow reef tours today…a porcupine fish was the new additioion to my personal sightings catalogue.

A small stingray and a cute baby moray that my partner found…bloody good eyes on this guy. And some very interesting Cathedral Corral. Unfortunately, Google doesn’t have any pics.

Then there is this guy:

I guess he is eating the coral. My DM flipped him and fed him some rocks. He says it slows him down, he hopes. He added that they were prolly back munching the sweet stuff already. Oh, he’s called The Crown of Thorns Starfish.

It was a long boat ride though. Over an hour each way. That’s the longest pier to dive site transport yet. Almost 2 hours of total bottom time as, it was quite shallow hal diving, nothing more than 10m.

Okay, I got a hankering for a margarita…so I am gonna find out who in this quaint little village makes the best one.

Later y’all.

Hey Kenny Fuckin Dryden,
Couldn’t be happier that my assesment has ceased to be valid.
Glad you’re having a good time and do manage to continue doing so.

[quote=“the chief”]

Hey Kenny Fuckin Dryden,[/quote]

Hey I like that. But I think you may have misconstewed my comments to you. I wasn’t dismissing your assessment. I can see that it must have been pretty dire back in the day. But what with the new ferry (20 minute crossing every (daylight) hour) and the road extending from Long Beach to past Bang Bao, it certainly has become far easier to access all parts of the island. I was only trying to work in my line Koh Chang? Koh Change! Sorry if my post felt dismissive.

That said, I won’t likely be returning. I spend my vacations seeking bottom time. Koh Chang’s diving scene is rife with competition and it’s sites are few and extremely far between. The most popular area is down by Koh Rang. There are maybe 4 sites out that way, but they are shared by at least 1/2 a dozen outfitters. The bread and butter of these operations is the all too common snorkel fish.

Here is a relatively small pod:

Unfortunately, they congregate in much larger schools in the areas around Koh Rang. They are a stupid breed of fish, these snorkel fish are. They stand on coral and represent one of the greatest threats to our global reef system. Education (as usual) seems to be the answer, but the owners and operators of such dive outfitters as BB Divers seem to ignore the laws of nature, preferring to adhere to the greeds of Mammon…

Fortunately, these snorkel fish are a gullible lot as well. Alot of fun can be had at there expense. For example, I politely asked them not to swim over scuba bubbles as we can’t breathe when they do. Lots a yuks in that one…

So, for a diving destination, you can find far better places to go than Koh Chang.

But if relaxation and great food are your vacation’s raison d’etre, Koh Chang may be the place for you. As I mentioned upthread, I had 6 hours of massage on my first day in BKK. I had a pretty nagging kink medial of my scapula and radiating up thru my traps into my sterno-cliedo mastoid muscle. In laymans’ terms, I had a really sore neck. It had been plaguing me for some 3 weeks prior to my Thai odyssey. The fine ladies of Sukhomvit could do little to alleviate my erm, muscular stress. But, on my second day on Koh Chang, I discovered Joy.

Joy is a young man from up near the Laos border. He came to Koh Chang in October to work as a masseuse for Herbal Sauna, located on the main road in Bai Lan, the community due south of Lonely Beach and North of Bang Bao. Joy worked me for an hour and squeezed so much atrementous, acrimonious angst from my system that I fear I may have indelibly scarred the idyllic jungle setting that bears witness to Joy’s work. In what I can only describe as a unique blend of thai and tantra, Joy can cure whatever ails ya. The difference was completely palpable. There was only a residual aching of the original pain after a single hour under his magical hands. I came back the next day for a 2 hour session. That did the trick. I haven’t been bothered by any neck or back pain since. In fact, my body feels lighter, my lungs feel clearer, my heart beats stronger and my skin feels radiant. My very soul has been given the old spring clean. Magic is Joy.

The next day, Joy left for his home. Like crack, I was addicted. Luckily, I was also cured, so I didn’t miss him as much as if I was still in a modicum of pain.

If I was still a-hurtin’, I may have followed him home, thrusting baht his way so he would keep those hands on me. :smiling_imp:

Re:Relaxation…later…gotta get back to my class now…

Again I find myself sitting in Bangkok wondering whether to go to Koh Chang or Koh Tao. Does the Toe, bless him, have it with the above? I’ve done Tao a zillion times and always thought to try Chang instead. My current indecision isn’t helped by the knowledge the slag that lives downstairs, the one that’s conditioned me to grimace when I hear an English accent is no doubt wallowing in a drunken orgy of England’s most despicable on Koh Chang.

I have two hours to decide. The Tao is a longer drive, but I’ll do half of it tonight and the rest in the morning. Or is it the shorter hop to Trat and the Chang, despite the risk of running into England’s most foetid?

Koh Tao? Koh Chang? Koh Tao? Koh Chang? Kaching? Kachong?

HG

Koh Tao is like what? An hour or tow on the boat or less? From Samui. Which is 45 minutes from the airport. Can’t see what your indecision is. Koh Tao.

You’ve never forgiven me for recommending the train, but there’s no train or plane option at this stage without waiting several days, so the indecision centres on the seven hour drive to Chumphon to get the boat to Tao, or the five hours to Trat to get to Chang. I know what’s at the end of one route, the other I have only what the Toe said above.

It’s decided. Sitting in Ricky’s cafe waiting for Missus Huang to show up with the wheels, then we drive south to Chumphon!

HG

[quote=“Huang Guang Chen”]It’s decided. Sitting in Ricky’s cafe waiting for Missus Huang to show up with the wheels, then we drive south to Chumphon!
HG[/quote]
Bastrud. Say a huge hello and a very merry Christmas to Ying from me and Jojo and tell her we hope to see her again soon.

Oh, and to you I suppose I’m supposed to also say “have a great time.” Cunt.
Have a few days here and say a big hi to Ting and Nao. Tell 'em we’ll be there soon with the kid.
http://www.shopart.com/thailand/viewrockresort.html
Then after “roughing it” for a few days there, move down to Sairee and stay for a day or two here to unwind.
http://www.thipwimarn-resort.com/
How I wish we could be there with you.

That puts your honeymoon in 1994. Funny, I was in Koh Chang the summer of 1994 and thought it was quite relaxing. Seemed like cheap accommodations and cheap food to me. There was no electricity back then, so they gave you lamps to help you find your way back to your hut.

That was my first experience with falling coconuts. They said every year one or two tourists were killed by falling coconuts. Apocryphal? Well, the roof on the hut next to mine was bashed in by falling coconuts. My first night there I got high on low-grade weed and paranoid on low-grade conversation with a group of stinking dread-locked hippy types intent on one-upping each other with Indian toilet horror stories, and on my weaving trot back to my hut on a dark, moonless night I heard two or three thuds on the sand that sounded perilously close.

So for me, Koh Chang equals coconuts, and will ever more.

That’s right, THAT’s the spot you mentioned previously, Sandman! Will have to pop in and pass on your good wishes. Message to Ying duly passed, and her and Mae’s best offered in return.

For now, tapping from the Tao, where clouds threaten rain, my lad lies sick with the squirts and a stitched knee after dropping his scoot in the rain and I’m full of head cold. It sounds bad, but it sure as hell beats working.

HG

Will be here end of the month. Driving over from Bangkok airport, should be fun. Found a good site, will hit some of these restaurants for sure

iamkohchang.com/chapter/restaurants

[quote=“the chief”]Oh, and the boat dock is Trat, with a T.
Hate for you to get on the wrong bus.[/quote]
Trat, Trad, potato, potahto. ตราด is spelled either way.

[quote=“Tempo Gain”]Will be here end of the month. Driving over from Bangkok airport, should be fun. Found a good site, will hit some of these restaurants for sure

iamkohchang.com/chapter/restaurants[/quote]

Great time, this site was indeed a great resource.