Motorcycle Fork Strip

Anyone know if these forks can be (reversibly) stripped further?

Not done this before, but the ends look to me to be pressings, so perhaps not further dismantleable. They are off an old SYM Wolf 125 (drum brakes and chain case stylee).

The two forks are different designs (one had a plug thing on the narrow end which I assume restricts the oil flow, the other more oil flow ports) so at least one isn’t original, unless SYM production control is very informal.

These are both pretty knackered so IF I get it running again (old motorcycle wiring is REALLY horrible) and I keep it I’ll probably be replacing them, and would like to get completely strippable versions, though I dunno where I would source these in Taiwan and expect it would be difficult to explain the requirement.

Meantime I’ll put gaiters on if I can find or make some.

Wolf parts are easy to get in Taiwan. Some mechanics specialize in Wolf and similar bikes (KTR, etc.). Shoppee has OEM Wolf parts brand new, and Shoppee and Facebook both have used parts

If the engine is in good shape, why not rebuild with nice forks? Something custom that is easier to sell later?

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Ze plan, such as it is, is a basic fettle of this tatty old bike. IF I get it running, which I’m not at all sure of, (because electrics) I will probably replace the forks, but I cant see anything fancy giving an old drum-braked Wolf a lot of punter appeal.

Your average biker is, after all, about as indifferent to appearance and peer pressure as your average teenage girl is.

If I buy something for my own use, I would like to be able to strip it down completely, which I believe is possible with some fork designs.


Not much help as I haven’t owned a wolf but you should be able to pick up second hand parts cheep as chips at the beakers yard.

I personally would stop worrying about the forks/ frame etc (I know it easy to get distracted by these things) and get the motor ticking over. If the wiring is shot just strip it down to what you need to get it going. no need to get a battery just give it a jump from your wife’s scooter.

If its a runner you can take it from there, anyway I will stop myself being dragged down the rabbit hole of the internet as I’m not sure which year model etc you have, but here are a few links for sites I use to get repair and owners manuals.


Thanks. I have a few manuals from Honda for various CB125 models , the Honda CG125 manual from Haynes, and one for the SYM Wolf “Classic”. All the forks differ, and none of them seem to be exactly the same as these are.

The SYM Wolf "Classic"one is actually sourced from SYM, but while its a bit useful, its for a disk braked model, doesnt go into much detail, is sometimes a bit obscure of meaning (Chinglish stylee) and has a lot of errors and inconsistencies, for example, wiring colours (Chabuduo stylee).

I’ve packed bearing grease in the oil and dust seal grooves and put the forks back together. I’ll leave putting oil in them until they are back on the bike.

If there’s a hydraulic line between them this may be by design.

But forks are relatively cheap, could just get a new pair. :man_shrugging:

No lateral linkage. The one without the plug was quite difficult to re-assemble. I think the plug helps align the screw on the bottom of the fork that keeps it all together. Without one its difficult to get its thread engaged, but eventually got the tail on the donkey

Do you know if you can get fully strippable replacement forks?

I don’t know your area, but there is a bike/scooter breakers in Chaozhao, it may be worth your time having a look for one near you. Normally these types of places know what other manufactures parts are interchangeable, I would be surprised if you couldn’t get some Honda or Kymco forks that fit.

Thanks. I’ll have a look around when I shop for the gaiters, unless I order them online.

Explaining the concept of maintainability to a Taiwanese parts purveyor is likely to be challenging, but worth a try.

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Why don’t you try asking on ?

I’m pretty close to farmer country, so being frugal and make do and mend are part of the conversation here.

I should add that in the city it’s the same old “just get a new one” conversation.

Yeh, I may have a forgotten login ID on one or two motorcycle-specific forums that I should try to revive.

“Thumper Talk” and “Visordown” ring a bell

I’m only aware of car breakers, including the one that fairly recently got my car direct from the cops. Didn’t see any bikes there so I assume its a specialist niche.

If they are anything like the car trade, I wouldn’t expect them to be set up to sell bits direct to the public, because there is no DIY in Taiwan, so you might have to source scrap parts via a mechanic.

Local mechanic in my village seemed a bit freaked by the DIY foreign weirdness. especially the using of printouts from manuals. I suspect him of making the sign against the evil eye behind my back, and muttering “'Tis flyin in the face o nature” in the local equivalent of a rural Dorset accent.

You are right that fiddling with the forks is partly a way of postponing dealing with the electrics, but I wanted to fix the flat on the front in case I had to push the thing to a mechanic, which meant removing the wheel, and then I wanted to clean up the forks because they were embarrassingly rusty.

Perhaps I do have biker potential after all.

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fork 叉子
bike is sym 狼

google should take you the rest of the way to those parts if you can’t find some other way to get em. They’re so ubiquitous that if you have the tools n know how to do it, you might as well DIY it.

Wish i had all the tools n all, but I don’t want to invest in all that shit when I’m probably gonna be headed home or whatnot. Would love to look inside my wolf’s engine and try and get it back into working shape. Think it just needs the valve clearance surgery done…Either way, good luck mate.

Thanks. Havnt done the valve clearances, but I doubt you need anything special. Tools arent really very expensive, but they are heavy, so I get that you wouldn’t want to buy them if you are leaving.

I have a lot of tools and it’ll be annoying to leave them behind, but I dunno if I’ll have a use for them back in The Yook, since running a banger there is likely no longer practical for me.

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More just a question of when… as it stands, i’m just gonna probably try and sell it and let the next person get it done.

Dont much like that site from a quick look. I’ve come across it via search engines but have never posted before.

Seems to have lots of model-specific stuff but nowhere obvious to post general mechanical threads.


There’s a Garage forum so I’ve posted it there. No specific info received on strippable replacement but then the Wolf isn’t really an enduro or dirt bike, which is their bag, and I probably couldn’t get it here anyway.

I also want to see how bad the existing freshly polished turd is first.

Got a pair of gaiters 300N at a local Kymco dealer, there not being a SYM-specific place handy .

I expected they would fit tightly over the lower shock unit but they are the same diameter, so they are a bit strained when stretched over, and seem to be intended to sit loosly on top. They have grooves and a vent hole in the lower wide bit, so they will leak oil, Thats likely unavoidable anyway.

I put a nylon mesh tube (cut from old pair of GF’s tights) inside each gaiter to protect it and maybe soak up some oil leakage. I taped the bottom of each gaiter to the lower shock, though the tape likely wont last long.

I’ll probably add some sort of bandage (inside or outside the gaiter) to catch oil seepage until/unless I get motivated to change the shocks.

A telescopic tampon

Small grinding stone cleaned up the damage enough so the top plug/bolt went in OK.

I put some beeswax stuff (for boots) over the shiny bit to hopefully limit further corrosion of the upper part of the shocks, which is both exposed and difficult to get to.

IF/when I get the bike going I’ll ride it without oil initially (it has some grease but will be un-damped) then add it incrementally (say 50 mls initially then 10 at a time) until it settles down a bit.

Incidentally the “slide the tube out” manual-speak translated to a half-day of hammering, but towards the end I discovered that a Royal Brunei in-flight catering stainless steel knife I had in the bottom of my toolbox hammered hard into the lower triple-tree ring mount split loosened things up a little. Going back in, cleaned and waxed, wasn’t so bad.

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