Pre-& during CNY Backpacking in Taiwan

Hi,
We have booked our air tickets to Taiwan from Jan 29 – 8 Feb 2011. We have tried to book a 5/6/7days Taiwan round island tour but told there won’t be any available because of the CNY festivities. Can anyone advice which tour agent in Taiwan can provide this tour from 29th Jan.
Our contingency plan is to backpack the western coast. Our itinerary being:
Jan 29: Airport > Taichung
Jan 30: Taichung> Puli> Chaiyi
Jan 31: Chaiyi> Alishan
Feb 1: Alishan> Tainan
Feb 2: Tainan
Feb 3 (CNY) : Tainan> Kaoshiung> Taipei
Feb 4 (CNY) : Taipei City
Feb 5: Taipei> Keelung> Jiufen> Taipei
Feb 6: Taipei> Beitou> Dansui
Feb 7: Taipei “Electronics” shopping
Feb 8: Taipei > Airport

Our concern being availability of transport to travel between places and the high cost of accommodation pre and during the festivities period.

Are we expecting too much coverage of Taiwan during these “shutdown” period.

Pls critique itinerary and advice most welcome.

Here’s my :2cents:

For the last three CNYs I’ve traveled (solo) in Taiwan and China for the duration of the holiday. This is what I’ve learned.

[ol][li]Skip the tour company – if you can find one that isn’t booked or non-operational at the time. Armed with little more than a copy of Lonely Planet Taiwan, you can do it on your own. Get a copy of that book, seriously.[/li]
[li]CNY is a good-and-bad time to travel in Taiwan (or most of Asia). The key is to avoid the rush leading up to CNY itself. This is the time when everybody is trying to get “home” or wherever they’re going. Seeing as how this is already a moot point (arriving on Jan. 29), you’re just going to have to deal with it. Yes, many hotels tend to jack up their rates during CNY, but usually only in “destinations” – for instance, Kenting. Immediately following the Big Day, there will be a noticeable drop-off in prices and the number of people coming and going.[/li]
[li]Judging from your ‘contingency’ itinerary, I’d say you have it down pretty good. The one thing that doesn’t shut down during CNY is the transportation system(s). Buses and trains are running, in some cases, more frequently than usual. Since the Big Day is pretty much in the middle of your trip, the first half will probably be the challenge. Put it this way, you won’t be alone. I can’t say one way or the other what will be happening in Alishan or Puyi during this time. And I can’t speak about the hostel situation (if that’s your budget – no offense to hostel-lovers – I’m just too old for dorm rooms. :eh: ) but I would imagine that some of them may shut down for the holiday. You should definitely do some early-birding on that issue. Get on the phone or send emails.[/li]
[li]I believe that much of the hype regarding travel during CNY is just that – hype. Sure, there’s a lot of travel happening, but generally speaking, you’ll get to where you’re going and you’ll find a place to crash when you get there. I hear frequent chatter about “Taiwan shutting down” during CNY and I think that’s just false. Again, this is just my opinion.[/li]
[li]Do your homework and stay flexible. If it seems like too much of a hassle to slog it around the west side, consider going over to the east.[/li]
[li]Here’s a decent link if you don’t already have it. eztravel.com.tw/[/li]
[li]I’m sure there are other Forumosans who have opinions and objections to what I’ve said so far. Let’s hope they speak up.[/li][/ol]
Good luck and have fun. You’ll be fine. It will be a great experience.

Thanks for your quick take. I used Lonely planet to dig up the basic info but do not want to lug it along to Taiwan. I have posted the details onto the cloud(emailed myself with details of interests) and to pull out from the cloud as required.

We intend to stay at budget hotels around the transportation hub for easy commuting and to conserve retirement savings for our rolling “stone travelling” for the next 10 years or until the legs give way. Henceforth budget is a key factor in our travel.

What’s you take for hotels reservation? I found no advantage in early reservation (2 weeks before the arrival date). In many places in Asia just turning up at the front desk secures better rates. How about Taiwan?

to myself to revisit

Generally speaking, outside of CNY, there’s no benefit to advanced booking online (except in Thailand, H.K. and the Philippines) in terms of saving money, and you’re right, many many times you get a break from the rack rates coming in off the street. Note I said outside of CNY. If you were going to mainland China I would say fuck it completely and just roll up. However, during CNY, it might be to your advantage to try and book something in advance so you don’t wind up wobbling all over Tainan looking for a place to crash. This is debatable and I’m disappointed that no other Forumosan has weighed in. I would say that this is not a question that comes up every day. Anyway…there are loads of budget accommodation in most, if not all of the areas you plan to visit. It has been my experience that the hotels in the big cities are more or less half-full during CNY, and that includes Taipei. I had no problem finding nice lodgings in Kaohsiung and Penghu during the days leading up to CNY 2010. Same for H.K., Guangzhou, Xiamen, et al but you’re not going to China.

Here’s something you didn’t mention: How’s your Chinese? If you said “Non-existent” or anything similar, expect some obstacles, especially in the hotel and transportation category. Food is easy. Point, pay and eat. It sounds like you know what your doing already. Just curious. I got mercilessly fucked my first go-round in the mainland for not being able to speak intelligible Mandarin. I wound up on buses going to places I didn’t want to visit, showering in cold-ass water, asking for domestic dog meat, and ordering 8 beers that came to my table at the same time (because I didn’t understand the Y100 minimum purchase scam).

In terms of its size, I would rate LP Taiwan worth its weigh in China White heroin. I see you have a back-up plan but whatcha gonna do if you don’t have internet access, which, in the sticks of Taiwan, may be a Quixotic experience trying to wire up? I don’t care if I’m making a day trip to Keelung or Fulong, I put it in the sack and sweat the extra calories just in case. That’s me.

Looking again at your itinerary, I notice that you’re really moving around on the 3rd and 4th. I’d re-think that but again, that’s me. The HSR will be running but look out for two things: (1) Taxi drivers not using the meter and charging special CNY price from Zuoying to Kaohsiung City and (2) the fact that a healthy chunk of Taiwan is going to be moving around during those times. In other words, get online and see if there are any HSR tickets from Tainan to Kaohsiung to Taipei still available. You can always take the regular train or a bus but IMHO, you’re making a big mistake. thsrc.com.tw/en/

It occurred to me that perhaps you may be a little more of a free-wheeling traveler, e.g. prefer not to plan ahead. I like to have a landing pad at the beginning of a trip. For instance, when making extended journeys (more so in China) I typically book a hotel room online for the first and last night. Therefore, if it were me, I’d have booked my first night in Taichung and my last night in Taipei.

It seems you are planning to do a fair bit of moving around. Any particular reason you want to go to Taichung/Puli?

I would book up something for those two days in Tainan. I was down there around CNY last year, and it was a bit of a nightmare trying to find a place to stay.

Keelung/Jiufen/Beitou and Danshui will be pretty hectic these days, but that is fine if you don’t mind mixing it with the crowds.

I don’t know where you are coming from, but you might want to check prices online before you decide to spend a day electronics shopping. I found recently that a lot of things were cheaper to buy in the US than over here.

Hi Super Lucky & Mugatu

Our back up plan for lodging especially in Tainan is to go to temples for the night. Hopefully that’s not the outcome we look forward to especially eve of CNY. We might just splurge on accommodation for the eve of CNY to greet CNY if we can skimmed off expenses elsewhere before the night. We were in Guilin (Yangshou), China last CNY and no problem with accommodation whatsoever.

My spouse speaks both Taiwanese and Mandarin however struggles with written form. Nevertheless we still got bumped in China because they immediately recognised us as foreigners because of the way we dress (the giveaway being the hiking shoes and the NorthStar jacket) and of course the backpack. Overall in China we got on well and saved lots of money with food and local tours and yes hotels after bargaining. Everything is negotiable there.

Alternating Lonely Planet book, we have extracted summarised info onto 6-8 pages of printed A4 paper; indicating shortlisted 4 hotels for each city, places to visit in each city and city maps. Know where I can download printable map for Tainan City?

A free GPS map of Taiwan (in English) of course would be most helpful. Know any link for either the free or paid GPS download?

Mugatu, reason for Taichung/Puli is the Sun Moon Lake tour. We reckon Taiwanese will be so busy preparing for the CNY that they will not turn up in force on the Sunday before CNY. What’s your take?

We will be flexible for 3rd Feb; we may just skip Kaoshiung altogether and just head to Taipei to enjoy the emptiness of Taipei to visit the nornal must visit places like 101 Tower, CKS Memorial, Martyrs’ Shrine, Longsheng Temple. Is the Imperial Palace Museum open on CNY?

Tainan/Kaoshiung > Taipei via HSR would be ideal but we are not even sure if we can reach Tainan/kaoshiung as per plan.
So spontaneity for HSR, Tze train or intercity bus. No preference on mode of transport. Take whatever is available on the day or even journey’s diversion. This can both be frustrating and fun. Oxymoron!

We shared the same preference for hotel reservation for the 1st night upon arrival and last night before departure. However we find that the 1st night hotel reservation is most deserving to unload upon arrival and breathing space to assimilate the environment as to local rates and actual satisfactoy check of hotel room and easy transportation to airport before making reservation for the last night. Most of the time we get good rates as well as examplary good service. This is especially true in developing countries but feel indifference with developed countries. What about Taiwan?

Mugatu,
Thanks for your local knowledge.

Reason for Taichung/Puli is the Sun Moon Lake tour. We reckon Taiwanese will be so busy preparing for the CNY that they will not turn up in force on the Sunday before CNY. What’s your take?

We are coming from Malaysia. Yes my daughter in New York said electronics there is definitely cheaper online. We don’t intend to buy much electronics but more to look and learn what Taiwanese are up to in the electronic arena.

Actually we would prefer visiting the Movies village/town (Taiwanese version of hollywood) over Keelung but can’t find the name of the place. Do you know what’s it call? and the location?

cheers

To the OP:
I highly recommend you save yourself money and get a guaranteed place to stay. How do you do this?
couchsurfing.org
Plenty of Taiwanese are on this site all over the Formosa and are waiting for people to stay with them! I am planning on using this on my upcoming Journey through Taiwan. I have used this also on my previous trip to Taiwan and it worked beautifully! Great people on that website!

bring warm clothing, waterproof boots, a raincoat, and an umbrella as the weather during CNY is GOD AWFUL…its best to flee this rock during that time of year.

[quote=“super_lucky”]
In terms of its size, I would rate LP Taiwan worth its weigh in China White heroin. I see you have a back-up plan but whatcha gonna do if you don’t have internet access, which, in the sticks of Taiwan, may be a Quixotic experience trying to wire up? I don’t care if I’m making a day trip to Keelung (Jilong) or Fulong, I put it in the sack and sweat the extra calories just in case. That’s me.[/quote]

I haven’t traveled around Taiwan at CNY, but I heartily agree with S_L here. LP doesn’t weigh too much and on several of my day trips I found no wireless signal available anywhere and sometimes not even cellphone data. I would not rely on the cloud for my info on a trip like yours; especially since you’re going to try to get around most of the island, I’d chuck the book in the backpack and feel glad to have it, if for nothing else, something in English to pass the time. :slight_smile: It might also save your ass when you’re trying to get a hotel room if you don’t speak Chinese because you could print to the Chinese phrase in the LANGUAGE: Conversation & Essentials section.

Have a great trip… and if you want to be nice to those who follow you, consider writing a long post with how it all turns out and your advice for those who follow you… or if you have a blog where you do the same, point us to it. I’d like to make a similar trip at some point and enjoy hearing about other folks’ experiences. :thumbsup:

If you decide not to take a guide with you pick up English maps locally at the visitor centres. All major cities, including Tainan, have one right in the train station. In the future, consider buying the pdf version of the LP guide (available by the chapter) if you are already carrying a laptop or iphone.

Thanks freethink83.
I did register with couchsurfing a couple of months back and totally forgot about it. Yes will take advantage of this opp. We will be looking for matches where we can learn and help expend noble societies mission while on our travel.

Deuce Dropper,
Thanks for the weather alert. The clothings and rain proof accessories are all in the 6kg fully loaded backpack that qualifys as flight hand lugguage. And this reminds me to shop for a thin thermal sleeping bag. Know where we can buy these in Taiwan?

There are inexpensive internet cafes everywhere in Taiwan even in tiny villages high in the mountains. Just ask for a wǎngkā. In Taipei, almost any independent cafe will have free wireless.

Your itinerary is foolishly jam-packed and you are hitting all the major tourist traps. At certain points during the holiday, these will be jam packed. Sun Moon Lake and Alishan are both awful and worse during lunar new year.

Tainan is a good choice and you have a better chance of good weather. Be sure to visit Nankunshen.

If you must go to Alishan, go to Fencihu, not the town of Alishan.

Any trip to Taiwan without visiting Taroko Gorge is just silly. It is Taiwan’s one, truly world-class attraction. If I were you, I would revise my itinerary. Just go straight to Tainan, stay there a few days, and make your way up the east coast, taking time to stop in the rift valley and Taroko Gorge.

Yes, the National Palace Museum is open every day, so it’s a good choice for CNY itself.

I agree with Feiren that the east coast would be preferable to many of the places you’ve listed. If I were you I’d concentrate on the three T’s: Taipei, Tainan, and Taroko Gorge.

Travel during CNY can be a dream if you’re going south when everyone else is going north, and vice versa. Going south when everyone else is going south is a nightmare. The traditional day that the people in Taipei flock en masse to “niang jia” (mom’s house) is the day after CNY itself. It is unwise to attempt to travel south from Taipei on that date.

Just a note to anyone thinking that traveling to Taiwan during CNY: it’s not a great time to travel to Taiwan. You might think that there will be all kinds of cool festivals and big parties in the street. It’s really not and most people just get together with their families. And the weather in Taipei isn’t that great (rainy and cool) during the winter but in the south it’s 75F and sunny almost everyday.

I’m not a Taiwan expert so maybe others have had different experiences but CNY is not a travel must do (rather a must avoid) in Taiwan. But Taroko is and there is a lot great hiking that is underrated imo.

[quote=“Hon Est”]Thanks freethink83.
I did register with couchsurfing a couple of months back and totally forgot about it. Yes will take advantage of this opp. We will be looking for matches where we can learn and help expend noble societies mission while on our travel.[/quote]
You are more than welcome! I hope you find many nice hosts on the site. Please dont hesitate to send me a private message if you have any questions or concerns! enjoy the trip :slight_smile:

Are you talking about Beitou or Jiufen?

Beitou is sometimes referred to as the “Hollywood of Taiwan” because a lot of movies were shot there, but this was back in the 60’s (or maybe 50’s?). You won’t find much about that there now, except the exhibition in the Hot Spring Museum.
Or maybe you mean Jiufen? A lot of movies have been made there in the last 20 years or so. I would hardly call it a Taiwanese version of Hollywood, but it is a really nice place to visit (less so on weekends)
Or are you just talking about that daft sign that says “KEELUNG” in Hollywood style?

I think you will be alright going to Sun Moon Lake on that Sunday, it just depends how many mainlander tour groups there are then.

Hi Duce Hopper,
Thanks for the weather alert. The clothing and rainproof accessories are all packed into a 6kg backpack that qualifies as flight hand luggage. This reminds me of compact and lightweight thermal sleeping bag/blanket. Know where I can buy these in Taiwan?

cheers