🏞 đŸš¶ River Tracing | River Tracing in Hualien

Travel Taiwan Travel
,
1

Hi All,

I thought I would set up a topic for folks interested in coming down to Hualien for a trip into the outdoors. We are up in the mountains often, so we know the local conditions. As I am sure anyone who has tried to do the research in English knows, info on the area is outdated at best, dangerously inadequate at worst. I will try to keep the thread updated with info about closures due to typhoons, earthquakes, landslides and the like. Local conditions can change quickly here, and it might be able to save some people a wasted trip to Hualien.

Trails Opened And Recommended

Zhuilu Old Trail- Open to 3.1km! By far the best day hike in the gorge. Needs permits, however, and they have to be done in person at least a day before.(Unless you get us to help out)

Baiyang Trail- Open and in great condition. If you can only do one hike on a sightseeing tour, this is the hike to do! Tunnels, waterfalls, bridges and the famous ‘Water Curtain Cave’. Bring an umbrella even if it is a sunny day


Lushui Heliu- Open and doing fine. Great easy hike.

Lotus Pond Trail- Open and worth a plan B hike as it doesn’t need a permit. First big suspension bridge is ‘fixed’ and offers some amazing views for those who like that type of stuff!

Wenshan Hot Springs- Open and getting more crowded all the time. The cave is now waterless, and the hot springs come out right into the river. During low water periods it is one of the most esthetically pleasing places I have ever been, with multi-leveled pools and a swift to take a dip in. During high water periods it is very, very dangerous. Pick your time wisely.

Shakadang- Open again after repairs but not very scenic. River was filled with stones due the last big typhoon. Still worth a nice walk if you have some extra time.

There are many other places and trails in Taroko, but the above are the best of the best. If you want info on something not mentioned, just ask.

Trails Closed For A Long Time

Tunnel of Nine Turns- Already closed for a long time, will stay that way. Fresh rock falls almost monthly.

Here is the Taroko Gorge National Park Website for more info taroko.gov.tw/English/?mm=0&sm=0&page=3

The high mountain hikes are mostly open, with Hehuan being the most accessible. Remember that the permits for deeper hikes all need a Taiwanese leader if you want to attempt them.

River Tracing

Water is still pretty cold. Season doesn’t really get started until May. Email or PM for info.

I will try to keep updating this space, and if there are any questions, ask away!

Happy Hiking,

-Hualien Outdoors

1 Like
2

I’ve read that you need a permit for Baiyang Trail. Is that still true?

It’s a bummer about Shakadang. Easy trail and a great way to see part of the real Taroko. So much better than just driving up and jumping out of the car/bus at every viewpoint.

3

What happened to the cave at wenshan springs? I have been there one year ago and it was full of water. Was the water diverted or did the pool break somehow? *

4

[quote=“Abacus”]I’ve read that you need a permit for Baiyang Trail. Is that still true?

It’s a bummer about Shakadang. Easy trail and a great way to see part of the real Taroko. So much better than just driving up and jumping out of the car/bus at every viewpoint.[/quote]

I walked the first short part of Shakadang (just until the vendors:-) during CNY and was mightily disappointed that there hardly any water in the river. Sign in (Chinese) said that this is due to the dam, and that water is released at certain (unspecified) times. Is there a schedule for this, or is it just pot luck?

5

I was there in September 2-3 yrs ago so water should have been higher at that time. It would be disappointing if there weren’t the turquoise pools of water though.

6

Not true, now that the tunnel has reopened next to the main road.

Before that, when the rock face above the main road was being stablised and the tunnel was closed, the only route to the Baiyang Trail was a path climbing up from the back of Tianxiang - that was a bit narrow in places and you did need a permit there. That back trail ended up being taken out by a small typhoon, it might not even be open any more.

7

Shakadang trail, first 2km, CNY 2013

Wenshan ‘Hot Springs’ CNY 2013

8

No permit is needed for the Baiyang trail if you start from the big tunnel by the road. The other trail up over the mountain to the Baiyang falls is still closed as far as I know. As for Shakadang, it was open? I haven’t seen the red tape off the entrance on the bridge since the summer, but I haven’t been looking too closely either. I checked the website and I guess it is open now! I will change that in the OP. I will have to check it out one of these days.

As for the lack of water in the river, it is due to the last big typhoon. The rivers here change so much after big typhoons. After a big one, they fill with gravel and small stones. Pools will be smaller and might even disappear, waterfalls will be filled in and swifts will be buried. That only lasts until the next typhoon however, as all that stuff will get pushed out the next time the river rises. Right now it looks horrible in those pictures. It will take a good 2 or 3 level typhoon before it looks as beautiful as it did before. The beauty will return though, I have seen it happen many times before.

9

Mmm
the river above the dam was full, below the dam is what you see in the pics. There is a sign that clearly states in Chinese that the water from the dam is only released at certain (unspecified) times.

We have the same problem in NZ, the Full James rapids on the Waikao river are only kayakable when the dam is oened, but at least in NZ we know that the water will be release everyweekend.

Shakadang was ONLY open for the first 2 km, until the entrance to the small village. Just past the vendors the trail was closed with red tape
however, due to the lack of water this is not really an issue, as there is no point walking along an empty river to the Mysterious Ponds whih, I assume, will also be empty.

10

That might actually be typical. I’m not sure that there is ever a lot of flow along the Shakadang trail. Even in September it wasn’t really flowing but the small rocks are gone and there are the nice green pools.


theworldisnotthatbig.com/2010/09 
 o-gorge-2/ this was only my 2nd hiking trip in Taiwan.

11

We did the Zhuilu Old Trail today and it was awesome, perfect weather, great views. Not for those with fear of heights, that’s for sure (I started to get wobbly on the way back, and was clinging to the cliffside steel rope with both my hands all the way). Back down, at Swallow’s grottos, hordes of mainland Chinese tourists, like an invasion. Got out of there rather quickly


12

Can some of you please help? I’ll be visiting the Gorge soon, probably spend 4-5 hours driving around there-including stops. What would you recommend given that time frame?
Thanks.

13

[quote=“Kea”]Can some of you please help? I’ll be visiting the Gorge soon, probably spend 4-5 hours driving around there-including stops. What would you recommend given that time frame?
Thanks.[/quote]

Swallow Grotto is great but you have to share the place with bus loads of mainland Chinese tourists. If you want to go for a walk, the Lushui Trail is a good combination of easy hike and spectacular views. You get to see the gorge from higher up above the highway (takes about 60 to 90 minutes to complete the loop). We walked the Shakadang trail yesterday and as has been said before, the lack of water is a bit of a bummer, but there are still the huge boulders and marble walls, which make the walk quite interesting.

14

With 4-5 hours I would say to go early and start at Baiyang waterfall trail, which is a couple hour total return trip. Go there first so you miss the crowds. Then head to Wenshan hotsprings for a dip, as it is about 5 minutes up the road. Great place even if you just walk down for look. On the way back you can stop at the Lushui-Helio hike, which is a great hour long or so walk. There are some other places to stop in as well on the way down, but nothing as good as the hikes I mentioned.

I will have to go up to Shakadang one of these days and check it out. Sounds very disappointing. I used to lead river traces along that section of the river.

As for swallow’s grotto, unless you arrive before 8am, or from 12pm-12:30pm when the Chinese tourists are at the trough, DO NOT STOP. Thousands of mainland Chinese tourists get their ‘Taroko Experience’ in that spot and it turns into a nightmare of honking buses, hordes of oblivious blue helmet clad gawkers and can be VERY dangerous. I have seen tour buses hit pedestrians with their big front-hanging mirrors more than once. I am often forced to walk through there in the thick of it after finishing Zhuilu to get to the parking area. Not fun.

If you can get there with no crowds, however, it is a spectacular walk. You can even see swallows during the deserted times!

Have a great trip!

15

We saw some swallows flying even with the hordes walking those 500 meters “doing Taroko”. They are probably used to it by now.

When driving through the gorge, watch out for those tour buses driving in the other direction, they can come dangerously close, crossing over to your side of the road.

16

[quote=“Kea”]Can some of you please help? I’ll be visiting the Gorge soon, probably spend 4-5 hours driving around there-including stops. What would you recommend given that time frame?
Thanks.[/quote]

Stay overnight nearby, get a packed breakfast ready (anything, you’ll be outdoors and it’ll taste great), set the alarms and drive up at 6.00. Seriously.
The early light, the lack of tourists, makes for a gorgeous gorge.
You can always have a nap in the car after lunch, if that’s really too early.

17

Sell your firstborn if you must, but, like others said, AVOID THE TOURISTS!

18

Taroko NP site is listing the Huoran Pavillion Trail (豁然äș­æ­„道) as open, that’s been closed for at least the last 6 years.
When did that happen / has anyone hiked it yet?

http://www.taroko.gov.tw/English/?mm=0&sm=0&page=3

19

We walked Dali-Datong-Shakadang today, the whole of the Shakadang trail to Sanjianwu (5km?) has re-opened.

It’s clear that the valley got a total clear-out from Typhoon Tembin last year. There’s been a great deal of soil & loose stone deposited in the river bed.
This might account for the change in river flow and volume, not sure it’s anything to do with the dam itself.

I’d say most of the top 2km of trail has been rebuilt. Good effort!

20

WENSHAN HOTSPRINGS CLOSED FOR RENOVATIONS UNTIL APRIL 2ND

Was down there the other day and got the unpleasant surprise. Good news is that the cave has been shoveled out and has some water in it. They took out the green metal fence they put in last August after the typhoon and they will replace it with something else. Might take a little longer than they say however. Just a warning for anyone going there in the next couple weeks.

Thanks for the great info on Shakadang! Won’t be taking anyone there for at least a year I think.