The U-joint wraps around close the bars the extend forward, even when I loosen the thing all the way. I wouldn’t be able to slide the bars back with tape on them.
As far as my hands, I don’t really grasp the bars unless I’m going over a bump or unless I need to turn suddenly. I just rest them lightly on the portions that are angled upwardly. Most of my weight is on the elbow supports.
Normally, for second hand stuff, I like to buy from friends. This way I know what the parts have gone through. The C24 wheels and 9000 group set (minus the crank set) were bought from a friend. Crank set, saddle and pedals were all bought on second hand FB groups.
Ruten is the second hand or business 2 consumer website. However, it’s a pain in the ass to sign up/buy/sell. I would use it as a reference for price matching.
There’s one major second hand FB group that people post some very legitimate components. Check this FB group “2017 你 愛 他 全新 二手 商品交易平台”. This is where I bought my crank set and saddle. Your FB profile pic has to be cycling related to get in. A fair warning, admins are pretty strict on the rules, make sure you read them or have someone translate them for you before buying/selling.
The group is a buyers market. Sucks to be a seller, but it’s a good way to get rid of higher end components if you don’t want them sitting around. Shoot me a PM if you have any other questions. I’ll be happy to chat about it.
I don’t know how base pricing ultimately works, but when the AUD was strong against NTD, I would say things are cheaper here. But now that the AUD has fallen a fair bit, almost everything is more expensive in Taiwan. Even if we take RRP out of the equation though and assume they are exactly the same after currency exchange, in Australia for a non-custom bike, you can realistically get 18-20% off the price in the form of cash, not vouchers or credit.
The only thing I’ve found cheaper in Taiwan thus far is the Shimano DA rubber brake hoods, but even then I had another shop quote me a price twice as expensive!
Doubtful. the DA9070 rubber hood has to be the most fragile POS I’ve ever touched. putting it on/unscrewing the clamp will generally stretch it so it no longer fits on the shifters properly, and a strong pull will rip it. Quite documented on the internets now and I’ve had the exact same experience via shops and installs myself.
[quote=“ranlee, post:244, topic:83077, full:true”]I’m curious as to what your DIY mount comprises of. Could you share more?
I made this one as a simple try-out from a 10NT clamp, basically to check if swapping the Bryton between bikes made sense.
Used a longer bolt, a bushing, the spare Bryton adapter, and some small Allen bolts to fix things up.
It is sturdy, and works rather fine, so one day I will replicate the mount in a bit more attractive design, probably in a 3D print.