Show us your bike(s) [as in bicycles]


#21


My Giant FCR. Haven’t had the time to ride it for the last couple weeks, but I think there are a couple long rides lined up for next week.


#22

My Giant:


#23

Wow. Didn’t expect so many replies. Lots of nice bikes. Thanks all.

Oh and wix, I’m sure you could fit a bit more yellow into the front of that bike. :wink:


#24

[quote=“tash”]Finally a bike thread! Thanks, Iris :slight_smile:

Now, my current wheels may be crap compared to yours but I beat you on the background surely? :wink:

[/quote]

she is ALIVE

isnt that DanShui? :slight_smile:


#25

Might be over to the Baltics this year… tour guide assistance please!


#26

Can I add the bike I wish I still had?


#27

I bought a Giant bike for about 4K. Met a few avid cyclists one day and tried to keep up with them. They told me the frame was wrong for me. Supposedly the frame height was ok, but the frame distance between the saddle and the handlebars was too close, so I was being scrunched when cycling (Is this possible?).

They had really expensive bikes and those bikes did feel more comfortable and easier to ride(they let me try). I always thought a bike was a bike and they are all the same, but it seems I am wrong


#28

[quote=“TNT”]I bought a Giant bike for about 4K. Met a few avid cyclists one day and tried to keep up with them. They told me the frame was wrong for me. Supposedly the frame height was ok, but the frame distance between the saddle and the handlebars was too close, so I was being scrunched when cycling (Is this possible?).

They had really expensive bikes and those bikes did feel more comfortable and easier to ride(they let me try). I always thought a bike was a bike and they are all the same, but it seems I am wrong[/quote]

yes, very possible that you are scrunched up… frames are like shoes or clothes, you’ve got to buy them in the correct size for your height and stature… frame sizing is one of those murky science vs. art affairs and you’ll get as many opinions as there are riders, but the vast majority of frames you’ll find in Taiwan’s bike shops are for Taiwanese sized folks, if you’re not standard Taiwanese size, chances are you’ll need to order a frame that’ll fit you properly… doesn’t matter if it’s a cheap or expensive frame though, correct fit is correct fit regardless…

the bike industry measures frames in the length of the seat tube ie. the center tube of the bike from the crank axle up to the seat post clamp, bascially the longer this tube, the bigger the front and rear triangles and proportional geometry of the rest of the frame… too low a frame height and leg stretch to the pedals can be relatively easily worked around with over length seat posts etc. but the more critical frame size variable is the head tube (bit that the fork steerer goes through) to seat tube distance or effective top tube length… to some degree you can overcome a top tube that is too short with a longer stem and riser bars, but it’s a bastard fix since it’ll mess with your steering… a frame that’s too small may feel fine until you ride a frame that fits you properly and then you’ll wonder how the hell you put up with the incorrect frame… here’s a very rough guide to height vs. frame size for hardtail MTBs which is what most folks ride…

thoughts on frame sizing and a wealth of other cycle knowledge can be found here… sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html


#29

My neglected steed. Note the plastic bag of dogshit on the handlebar for enhanced aerodynamics.

I’ve actually been toying with the idea of getting a road bike as I’m convinced they’ll rust in a more interesting manner. What kind should I get if I want a mid-priced one that’s quite nice?


#30

That stuff is better utilized as ammunition.


#31

took a few snaps of my bikes at lunch…

This is the sort of hybrid MTB hard tail… It’s a carbon monocoque frame from a Taiwan/China supplier that I was trying out… It’s a well made frame and their composite manufacturing skills are excellent, but since they haven’t been making bike frames for long it isn’t perfect, the head tube wasn’t properly aligned and the NDS chainstay/seatstay needs a bracket to offset disc brake forces… no decals since this bike never made it to production… the all carbon frame and fancy pants components make this 23" bike weigh in at 9.8kg ready to roll… could chase a few hundred more grams out of it but I couldn’t be bothered TBH… it’s a great climbing bike and since all it ever sees is the roller coaster hills of Dakeng’s extensive paved trail network that’s a good thing… I try to avoid Shimano components but their XTR wheelsets are hard to beat… Otherwise it’s mostly SRAM stuff, RockShox REBA Team, Avid Juicy Ultimate, X.0 Trigger shift, Truvativ Noir, Crank Bros, X.0 RD, X.9 FD, FSA headset…

This is the full suspension pseudo freerider… the frame’s from a model we make for KHS in the US, but the spec is an oddball collection of mission specific parts and stuff I had around the office… the limited rear travel from the nothing special air can shock doesn’t do the frame justice, it’s a nice Horst link design licensed from Specialized, it could use a little more butting on the tubing to bring down the weight, but otherwise it’s a good middle of the road F/S frame… 140mm travel fork and massive overkill 2 piston CODE 180mm brakes make it loads of fun on technical offroad bits… RockShox Revelation, Avid Code, X.9 triggers, Truvativ Stylo, Holzfeller, X.9 RD, X.9 FD, RockShox Bar 2.1, Alex Cervino wheelset, FSA headset…


#32

anyone want to upgrade their bike and sell the old one to me?..I’m new to biking (dont know anything about biking :blush: but I’m learning now) and currently looking to buy a bike…budget around $10k (so not too fancy one)…

for that price, I could get Giant yukon disc ($9.8k) or Giant Iguana disc ($15.5k)…the difference between both bikes are mechanic to hydrolic disc brake and 24 to 27 speed…does it worth to spend $5.7k more to get the hydrolic brake and 3 more speed?..


#33

Yeah, finally a place to show off my baby.


#34

1995 Marin TEAM MARIN
Tange Prestige Ultralight tubeset with Ultrastrong downtube 17" frame
Full First Generation XTR
updated with ace18 rims & michellin xc road slicks
rarely ridden, waiting for some dura-ace clipless pedals to come through

2007 Giant OCR3
Essentially stock, including the road bike equivalent of training wheels, cross levers…
Trying to learn how to pound pavement on this one.
ridden daily, after sundown, like a maniac.


#35

that Cinelli of Motorcyclerider (I’ve actually seen it before) and mungacious’s hardtail make a nice pair.


#36

mungacious - Your Team Marin is in such good shape - really brings back good memories for me as I also owned this bike and loved it. The Tange Prestige Ultralight tubeset is sooo light and the frame angles are very good for trail riding; the rear wheel always keeps good traction when climbing and the bike is very solid on fast descents.

Have you had any trouble finding replacement parts like new chainrings or freewheels for 95 XTR?


#37

That Cinelli is a beauty, but the photos need to be taken from the drivetrain side. I know it’s counterintuitive when you’re on the road because you need to turn it around to face against traffic, but those are the rules…


#38

Rules are meant to be broken. :smiling_imp: But now that you mentioned it, I looked a my other pics, and noticed that I don’t have a single pic of any of my bikes from the drivetrain side. I’ll be sure to change that on my next ride. I ride with a few expats every Sunday morning around northern Taiwan. If anyone is interested in joining us send me a PM.


#39

[quote=“StreetSpec”]anyone want to upgrade their bike and sell the old one to me?..I’m new to biking (dont know anything about biking :blush: but I’m learning now) and currently looking to buy a bike…budget around $10k (so not too fancy one)…

for that price, I could get Giant yukon disc ($9.8k) or Giant Iguana disc ($15.5k)…the difference between both bikes are mechanic to hydrolic disc brake and 24 to 27 speed…does it worth to spend $5.7k more to get the hydrolic brake and 3 more speed?..[/quote]

Get the Iguana, IMO the extra cash is worth it… it’s not just cable vs hydro disc brakes the Iguana’s spec is better where it matters… the SunTour XCR is one of the better entry level coil spring forks and it’s the lockout version, also it’s got Deore level shifters and deraileurs with Truvativ Isoflow crankset which is an excellent value and performance for money combination… the the Yukon has Altus/Tourney/Tektro which is a significant step down… M485’s are Shimano’s entry level hydraulic brakes, but they’re good… naturally hydraulic (especially Shimano) brakes may need bleeding once in a while and aren’t as home DIY friendly as cable discs, but the Yukon’s Tektro cable discs are far the best on the market… you’re also getting lighter, stronger Alex rims, marginally better pedals, chain and of course the more versatile 27 speed setup… Frame geometry and materials are identical though, so are bottom bracket, saddle, hubs, spokes and finishing kit so nothing to choose from there… …

Bascially if it’s going to be a once in a blue moon bike and live under the stairs collecting dust, you could save the NT$5k and go for the Yukon, although if that’s the case you could go even lower… If you’re going to ride it a fair bit and want something solid, simple and reliable I’d cough up the extra for the Iguana…


#40

[quote=“plasmatron”]Get the Iguana, IMO the extra cash is worth it… it’s not just cable vs hydro disc brakes the Iguana’s spec is better where it matters… the SunTour XCR is one of the better entry level coil spring forks and it’s the lockout version, also it’s got Deore level shifters and deraileurs with Truvativ Isoflow crankset which is an excellent value and performance for money combination… the the Yukon has Altus/Tourney/Tektro which is a significant step down… M485’s are Shimano’s entry level hydraulic brakes, but they’re good… naturally hydraulic (especially Shimano) brakes may need bleeding once in a while and aren’t as home DIY friendly as cable discs, but the Yukon’s Tektro cable discs are far the best on the market… you’re also getting lighter, stronger Alex rims, marginally better pedals, chain and of course the more versatile 27 speed setup… Frame geometry and materials are identical though, so are bottom bracket, saddle, hubs, spokes and finishing kit so nothing to choose from there… …

Bascially if it’s going to be a once in a blue moon bike and live under the stairs collecting dust, you could save the NT$5k and go for the Yukon, although if that’s the case you could go even lower… If you’re going to ride it a fair bit and want something solid, simple and reliable I’d cough up the extra for the Iguana…[/quote]

Once again great advise…tks a lot Plasma…

jeez, I just found out that bicycle accesories are expensive…some even more expensive than big bike one…this gonna be another expensive hobby (thank god I dont have big bike anymore)…but healtier :slight_smile:

btw Plasma, can u recommend a good and comfortable seat?..I saw one yest, cost $2k with air flow system (?) (forgot which brand) and handmade in Taiwan…is that good?..