I decided to make this post to give my perspectives on Chinese studying to anyone thinking about coming to Taiwan or going to China, based on my experiences studying in both places. In all, I studied Chinese at Middlebury College (L1), abroad in China with my college (L2), at Princeton in Beijing (L3) and ICLP in Taipei (L4).
I have come to the conclusion that anyone with less than three years of college Chinese under their belt, or four if you’ve not studied intensively (i.e. gone to China or another intensive school), you should avoid going to Taiwan, but at very advanced levels, Taiwan is a good place to be. (edit - I am mainly referring to Taipei here, since it’s where students from overseas tend to come to study Chinese. This post is also about Chinese students choosing whether to fly to Taiwan or to China, not people who have lived in Taiwan for a while, the experiences of which in learning Chinese will be very different.)
The crux of why anyone should avoid Taiwan at low levels is that it’s a really terrible environment to learn Chinese in. Even Middlebury, Vermont provides a far superior environment to Taiwan… and that’s an English speaking country! Most level 2/3 Chinese students I saw in Taiwan encountered a lot of the same language troubles I did, but instead of dealing with them, they were just overcome by them. Most younger people (under 35 or so I’d say) in Taiwan have some conversational ability in English, and most of them want to improve it (especially women). If you encounter any problems with your Chinese, most people’s first instinct is to switch to English. According to a teacher, hundreds of students in ICLP’s history have complained that when they talk to people in Taiwan, they respond in English. Local people have told me it’s because they think you can’t understand Chinese.
A good number of Taiwanese people with conversational English abilities seek out foreigners with the hope of practicing their English. For a number of students, this is a convenience, it allows them to have a “real” conversation, something level 4 students even reported. There’s 0 need to use your Chinese at all in Taipei, unless you are doing business (in which case the need is very real), so there’s no daily motivation to learn it. No one I came across from 4 different language schools in Beijing ever had a problem speaking Chinese in China, and feeling good about it - the people there appreciate your attempts at Chinese and are patient and supportive. However, a high-advanced Chinese student at ICLP recently confided to me, “I’m sick of this ‘fuck you, I don’t want to hear your Chinese’ attitude in Taiwan”. I’ve even met two people who said to my face, they’re going to refuse to speak Chinese to me because they can already speak English, why the hell speak Chinese to a foreigner?
As a level 4 student, I was able to talk about what we’re up to here, what kind of homework load there is, and I found my friends remarkably understanding. At the end of the day, Taiwanese people are very nice and hospitable, interesting and well-educated, but this is a society in which the status of strangers is pretty much zero. As an intermediate or even advanced student, that leaves you a fish out of water. Strangers often see you as a walking English practice opportunity, that’s what foreigners usually come to Taiwan for. I talked about this issue with people from ICLP, Zhengzhi University, and Shida and everyone I came across had serious problems, even very advanced students weren’t confident in their Chinese. A common criticism of ICLP students is their speaking proficiency is generally low, which is expectable - they never get a good chance to immerse themselves. If you want real language immersion in Taiwan, you have to really work for it, while in China it was always given, at least in the good Chinese programs. I had a really good study experience in China, and that set the bar for me in Taiwan, so I’ve been able to speak Chinese as much here as there, but the difference is in China you can speak very basic Chinese and people are happy to chat with you, while in Taiwan it took me the equivalent of 3.5 years Chinese in order to stay at the same level.
As a high level student, however, Taiwan is a good place to study. In Taiwan, you can have all the modern conveniences you’d get in, say, NYC, which you can’t get in China, as well as good health care. Moreover, with the free press, there’s non-communist newspapers available with a range of opinions, from Tian Xia (the World) on social issues, to Yazhou Zhoukan (Asia Weekly) which covers China without the censorship. There’s real TV available, in addition to the wacky communist TV you can get in China. People in Taiwan have varied opinions and knowledge, while people in China all pretty much seem to think the same thing- which gets old fast. If you can read a newspaper, Taiwan’s a great place to be. It has everything China does, and more.
But if you can’t read that paper, then learning Chinese in Taiwan is an uphill battle, compared to China anyway. Not only is it the hardest of the modern languages, but the local population just isn’t going to be receptive to your needs.