I pose this question because I just finished rebuilding an older scooter. The scooter was pretty much in a similar condition to that of most older scooters on the road. Just tons of little problems and broken bits, but it still starts and gets you around. But it’s dirty, loose, noisy, smoky and dangerous.
My advice is unless you are mechanically inclined, spend a bit more money and stay away from older scooters/bikes.
Here’s the summary of repairs and maintenance I wrote for the owner of the scooter I just rebuilt. The scooter is a Yamaha Jog 50cc.
[quote]1- Refurbished seat hinge ~ remove rust and repaint.
2- Fixed seat hinge ~ added a metal brace to replace broken plastic.
3- Greased seat lock and fixed bent lock cover.
4- Tightened headset- It was incredibly loose and the bearings were about to fall out.
5- Straightened kick starter- It was bend from a previous crash.
6- Refurbished the kick starter internal spring loaded mechanism- It was almost seized.
7- Removed rust and repainted many metal parts- Side stand, kick starter, double stand, master cylinder, etc, etc.
8- Installed overflow line on carburetor- It was missing
9- Cleaned and greased front brake master cylinder. After cleaning it, it was obvious that the cylinder was leaking brake oil. Cleaning the build up made it leak even more.
10- Got a second hand genuine Yamaha master cylinder from the scrap yard and installed it to replace the leaking cylinder. NT$200
12- Cleaned and repainted the second hand master cylinder.
13- Cleaned, repainted and greased the rear brake lever mechanism.
14- Replaced tail light switch on the rear brake lever. The tail light was not working when applying the rear brake- The switch was seized. Got the switch from the scrap yard for free.
15- Straightened both brake levers and removed the paid off them to give them a nice cast iron color instead of chipping black paint color. They were both bent from previous accidents. The right one more so than the left one.
16- Lubricated rear brake cable. I used a funnel and attached it to the end of the cable and I let some oil run down the sleeve for 24 hrs. The rear brake cable was very stiff and now it’s like a new one.
17- Refurbished all plastic parts with a special cleaner, and for the non painted plastic parts, I used heat to melt the surface slightly. This brings out the original color and shine in the plastic, and it fixes a majority of minor scratches
18- Did many plastic repairs using rivets and machined aluminum
19- Fixed headlight housing so that it can be installed properly. A previous accident broke the housing attachments. I fabricated attachments with rivets, screws and aluminum. These repairs can not be seen once the bike is put back together other than it’s obvious that the headlight is now firmly attached
20- Bought a new flasher (signal light) plastic cover, front left. NT$80
21- Adjusted the horn, and installed a second horn for fun. Got the horn from a scrap yard for free.
22- Painted a few plastic parts that were beyond just cleaning after I used melted plastic to fix cracks and damages.
23- Installed a tail light- It was missing. NT$50
24- Replaced tail light cover with a second hand one from the scrap yard. It was broken. Got the replacement one for free at the scrap yard.
25- Cleaned cooling fan and alternator.
26- Fixed undercarriage rear brake liner. The rear brake reqhires being attached to a bracket to keep it in place, but the bracket comes with the double stand which was missing altogether. So the rear brake cable had started to rub through the plastic undercarriage.
27- Installed a double stand and a brake cable bracket. Second hand from the scrap yard: NT$50
28- Refurbished and greased rear brake internal mechanism. It was almost seized.
29- Refurbished the rear brake adjustment bolt/ cable end. It was seized and a previous mechanic had bent the spring when trying to adjust the rear brake. I also unbent the spring before re-installing the cable.
30- Refurbished battery cover
31- Greased swing arm. It was bone dry.
32- Removed an inch off the ignition lead and re installed spark plug cap properly.
34- Upon inspecting the transmission, I found a blown bearing on the main shaft and it had a slight internal oil leak. The oil would eventually end up on the belt and pulleys, and the bike would not move forward because the belt would just slip. I don’t have the puller to remove the old bearing so I took the engine/transmission block to a mechanic and had the bearings replaced. NT$600 (two bearings- internal and external and transmission oil change)
35- The rear tire was dangerously flat, and it has a very slight leak around the valve stem. You can’t replace the stem without removing the tire so I replaced the valve and installed a new tire. NT$700
36- Refurbished and repainted transmission cover
37- Refurbished the outside of the engine block and transmission housing.
38- Fabricated bracket for signal light tooter. It was missing.
39- Cleaned and fine tuned the carburetor.
40- Replaced transmission weight rollers
41- Dismantled, cleaned and greased the rear pulley assembly/automatic clutch. The clutch was still squealing after that, so I replaced the friction pads assembly with an old one I had. (It’s the same on my scooter) If you were to replace the rear pulley assembly, it would improve performance at take off (it’s quite worn out), but for a 50cc, I think it’s good enough the way it is and it will not affect the bike’s reliability.
42- Aligned handlebars- They were bent to the left due to a previous accident. I took the handlebars to a machine shop and we used an acetylene torch t heat up the handlebars in order to straighten them. The machinist did not charge me anything, it took 2 minutes.
43- Installed a kill switch for fun- Anti theft switch.
44- Cleaned air filter.
45- Fixed a massive oil leak around the oil gauge on the oil container. This leak had oil on EVERYTHING!
46- Cleaned oil leak off of alternator cover, transmission cover, air filter housing, and all around the engine block and under carriage. It was a complete mess.
47- Refurbished the oil pump spring loaded mechanism, and adjusted oil flow. The mechanic who oversized the engine did two things wrong. 1- The piston sleeve was too tight around the piston an it created too much friction. 2- To compensate, the mechanic increased the oil flow which resulted in constant smoke coming out of the exhaust when the engine was warm and quite a bit of smoke when the engine was hot/overheating due to too much friction between the piston and the piston sleeve.
48- I took the piston and sleeve to a machinist and explained the problem. He bored out the sleeve just tiny bit more, and we installed new piston rings. The compression is still a bit high as I had to reduce the amount of air going in from the carburetor, but this will get better over time, and it’s good enough now. The scooter doesn’t smoke anymore. Even if you beat the crap out of it the engine will not overheat, and that’s after reducing the oil flow, too. The machinist charged me NT$200.
49- Replaced oil line from the oil container to the oil pump.
50- Removed rust and chipping pant from the wheels and repainted the wheels black.
51- Upon trying to refurbish the front forks, it became very clear that the forks were beyond repair. The left fork was bone dry and it was actually seized. It had about one inch of travel. I bought second hand front forks in good condition from a Yamaha mechanic I know well and I installed them. The forks are ¾ inch shorter than the original ones, but they are compatible and you can’t tell the difference. Second hand forks NT$600.
52- Refurbished front brake caliper. The caliper has been replaced not that long ago because it’s like new. Both front and rear brake pads are in good condition with lots of life left.
53- Refurbished and repainted front disk (brake disk)
54- Once the bike was put back together, I rode it quite a bit to make sure everything is in good working order. I put in about 300km on your scooter, and to my knowledge, there is not one single repair or maintenance required on this scooter as of now.
55- Did some white paint touch ups.
So that’s it. The bike is ready. The total cost is NT$2,480. The main expenses are the front forks, the transmission and the rear tire which was something you had to replace very soon anyways. The tire is more a maintenance item than a repair. Without the tire, the total cost of repairs is NT$1, 780.
You don’t know much about scooter mechanic, but I can show you most of the repairs. The following is what you will notice when riding the scooter:
The scooter will feel a lot stiffer (no rattles and miscellaneous noises), yet much smoother when hitting bumps. It is quieter when hitting bumps because all loose parts were fixed. You will find that the scooter accelerates much faster due to the work I did on your clutch and because I replaced the transmission weight rollers. The bike leans around corners a lot better now because the headset was so loose that it affected the handling dramatically, not to mention that the front forks were shot.
You will notice that the bike brakes about twice better now. Your rear brake in dear need of maintenance, and your front brake cylinder was shot and leaking. You will also notice that all lights are now working properly, the headlight is now properly adjusted for optimum night riding visibility and the horn is louder. Hehe.
You will also notice that there is no more smoke coming out of the exhaust.
In other words, what you have now is an older scooter that is accelerating, braking, and handling just like a brand new scooter; just like it did when it came off the assembly line many years ago. The scooter is now much safer to ride, especially during emergency breaking and cornering. If you choose to sell the scooter, it is now worth, in my opinion, no less than NT$10,000, which is more than twice what you paid for it.
Enjoy![/quote]
marboulette
