We have Kaiser oven and twice in three years the fuse has broke. They told me that we are using too much wattage on one circuit. The refrigerator and oven are on same socket. Because of Taiwan kitchens being very small in countertop space it is very difficult to find another space for it. Any suggestions?
Let me see… runs on 110 right?
There’s your problem.
Is your suggested solution that they rewire the apartment, or that they ask Taipower to change the voltage of the entire electricity supply?
Either way, I suspect there may be a better solution. I’m using my 110 V oven right now to make pizza. It’s working great.
(And yes, I know that you think it’s not possible to cook pizzas with 110 V, that making dough is too much work, that cheese is too expensive, that the salami available in Taiwan is too salty, and so on. 
)
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Correct runs on 110
The reason I said it is the problem is because 110 can only safely carry about 15 amps, so it grossly limits how much wattage an oven can practically have. So if you want to run an oven on 110 it needs to be on a dedicated circuit, especially ones with enough power like those Kaiser ovens. So your only option to keep from blowing breakers is find other circuit and run nothing else on it. That may involve a rewire for the house.
Otherwise get an oven that runs on either 220 or gas… then blowing breakers isn’t as much as a problem. Though gas ovens has its own safety issue…
Or throw caution to the wind and put a 30 amp 110 breaker on it… and instead of popping fuses you’ll just burn the house down. (don’t do that). Besides nobody makes 30 amp 110 breakers.
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Keeps breaking? Have you tried teaching it other forms of dance?
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Actually we have used on 110 to make pizza and tastes good. If we use oven on another circuit that’s not refrigerator will that work?
You need to run another circuit and use that to power the oven exclusively. It likely draws no less than 13 amps when running. That leaves nothing for anything else.
possibly when the fridge compressor starts while the oven is on it introduces extra load and makes the fuse pop.
for example if you have many things on and someone starts a hairdryer the same thing may happen.
if it is twice in 3 years, thats only once every 18 months, most fuses you can just flick them and they kick back in. its not a major inconvenience and all adults should know where your fuse box is and how to turn the gas off in your home as a matter of general safety.
that been said if you cant run a cable from another circuit to the fridge then it requires an electrician to rig 220v. the disadvantage with 220v is it is a lot more dangerous especially around wet areas.
my advice, if you don’t own the apartment try and stick with the 110v and minor inconvenience.
yes they do
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On the plus side, at least if you are using ammo as fuse, the bullet often don’t go anywhere because the powder can’t burn well without confinement and a chamber/barrel to direct the bullet, so the case will fly faster than the bullet. It would make a loud pop though.
And if you use a .22 shell as car fuses, and you sell the car to a convicted felon, he can end up in prison if the car ever gets searched by law enforcement. Bonus is it doesn’t matter if the felon knows there are ammo in the car.
What’s the power rating of your oven? Houses seem to be wired here for 20A, and you should see a 20A fuse in the fusebox. Your oven should ideally be rated at no more than 1600W (the sockets are rated for 15/16A, and in my experience start to melt at ~12A). I doubt the fridge is a problem. Moving it to a different socket would make no difference because it’ll still be on the kitchen circuit.
Honestly, I wouldn’t worry too much about it. Fuses run at or near their rated current for a long period do eventually pop. Replace it and carry on. As long as you can’t see any evidence of overheated sockets or wiring, and your oven is not rated at more than 16A, everything should be fine. I assume you’re talking about actual physical fuses (bits of wire) rather than circuit breakers here? If the latter, then it’s the fridge that’s the issue.
It is a fuse in the oven not in breaker box. Each time it breaks (which has been twice) have to take down to repair office. Only costs 300 nt but it’s the agravation of taking down in taxi and bringing it back. Appreciate everyone’s quick replies
It’s designed to run on 110V so that is not the problem.
Yes they do, not particularly common in domestic applications but they are available.
How old is the refrigerator? If it’s an oldie it could be pulling high amps on starting the compressor, as @oldboy1 pointed out, although twice in 3 years is not much to worry about.
I’d start by tripping that breaker and see if any other electrical items stop working, there could be more on that circuit that you’re unaware of. Is either the refrigerator or oven using an extension lead?
If it’s only the refrigerator and oven then you could just unplug the refrigerator when using the oven, would be a PITA and there’s a high risk you’d forget to plug it in again!
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Ah, OK. The most likely explanation, then, is that they’re putting in the wrong fuse (incorrect rating).
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Oh! That’s a different kettle of fish!
Then there could be a fault inside the oven. Fuses blow for a reason, and just replacing it without figuring out why it blew is not really proper.
Wish you had said this in the beginning as this is pretty crucial, as if it’s the fuse in your oven blowing it has nothing to do with the fridge or any other device on the same circuit.
Maybe there’s a short in your oven causing the fuse to blow when the condition is right. Find out if that is the case.
Actually the warranty work should involve that, or they give you another oven that doesn’t have a fault. It’s pretty irresponsible of them to simply replace the fuse and not look further.
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The repair people said it had to do with running too much on the same circuit hence fuse in oven blows out. So are saying this doesn’t make sense?
That makes no sense at all. You need to find a proper repair shop.
It could be that they’re putting the correct current rating in there, but a quick-blow type. A heating element has a lower resistance when cold and draws more current for a short time. A quick-blow fuse will be repeatedly stressed under those conditions and will eventually fail.
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the oven is at fault / incorrect fuse inside
search your brand in the internet and fuse blows to see if others have the same problem and or contact the manufacturers.