Around Taiwan on scooter (環島): Suggestions wanted on what to see

Great photos, keep posting them, I was in Taitung and Pingtung today, great weather hope it stays the same when you get there. If you time post your good (and bad or any reviews) here Latest Cuisine/Kaohsiung & Southern Taiwan Restaurants topics - Forumosa

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Thanks. I’m in Kaohsiung tonight and am craving Arkansas Diner for breakfast tomorrow. After that, we’ll see where the spirit takes me. Maybe I’ll stay one more day to try more places listed :yum:

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Hope you enjoy your breakfast (tell us what you think !)! Hope you have time to try Nice carrot cake 紅蘿蔔蛋糕 Kaoshuing (+ NYC) - Cuisine / Kaohsiung & Southern Taiwan Restaurants - Forumosa.

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I’m sitting in Arkansas Diner right now, loving life. This is my first time to their larger location; I’m happy they’re still in business and thriving :fried_egg::pancakes::eyes:

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Great stuff!

This is quickly turning into my favourite new thread in 2021! Thanks for the fantastic positive energy.

Guy

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Since you’ve made it to the south, I presume the east coast is coming up sooner than later.

I have three recommendations for your consideration:

  1. In Taitung City (which is lovely at this time of year), try to stop in for a coffee and cake at Cheela (listed on google maps as cheela 小屋咖啡館). It’s a daytime spot, open every day except Thursdays (although I’m unsure what will happen with their hours over the new year break). I would cross the island to visit this place—it’s nearly perfect in every way.

  2. Whether you follow the rift valley route or the coast, you can consider crossing the coastal mountain range on Highway 30 (linking up Yuli in the valley and Changbin on the coast). Aside from a 3 km tunnel, this little-traveled route was a delight and revelation, showing off some of the loveliest aspects of these mountains, with Andong Hotspring near the halfway point (budget 1 - 1.5 hours to cross, depending on how many times you stop to enjoy the view or—on the coastal side—have a nice cup of coffee sitting outside at a place called Fumanshan 福滿山咖啡 which alas I did not try but which seems to be highly regarded).

  3. And this one may be the least expected happy surprise I found: a homestyle Venezuelan / pan-South American restaurant on Highway 11 just south of the intersection with the above-mentioned Highway 30. It’s called La Gran Sabana (on google maps, it’s 大草原南美燒烤店 - La Gran Sabana). It has wonderful honest food served by a lovely welcoming couple. Their avocado sauce may be the most brilliant thing I’ve had the pleasure to taste recently. Do contact them in advance if you can (as I learned, that seems to be how many places in Changbin seem to roll…).

Enjoy your travels!

Guy

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Chicken Fried Steak???

Buscuits & gravy with REAL country patty sausage, and eggs.

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Nice!

Day 7 Tainan to Kaohsiung
Day 8 Kaohsiung to Hengchun, Pingdong
Day 9 Pingdong to Dawu, Taidong
Day 10 Taidong to Wanrong, Hualien
Day 11 Wanrong
Day 12 Hualien to Nan’ao, Yilan

I’ve gotten lazy with taking pictures, but here are a few photos from the last few days. I’m still loving this huandao.

From Nan’ao in Yilan, Happy Lunar New Year to everyone at Forumosa!

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Lovely! Making me wonder why I so seldom get out of the Taipei area.

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Man I’m lucky. The line of southbound cars
on the 9 from Nan’ao, where I left this morning, stretches 10km so far. But northbound, direction I’m heading, is empty! I feel sorry for anyone on this road going south today.

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@Steve4nLanguage Congrats on the great planning—intentional or otherwise. : D

Your thread has been a breath of fresh air amidst Taipei’s February gloom.

Guy

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Btw, since you referred to Nan’ao: I wonder if you’ve ever had a chance to see an amazing film set in the area called Finding Sayun (不一樣的月光)? After watching this film, I have a totally different sense of that very special part of Yilan and the many things that the Atayal community around there have experienced. Check it out if and when you can.

Guy

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Nope, never heard of it, but I just read an overview online. Do you know if there’s an English subtitled version?

I have not seen a streamed version with English subtitles, but the DVD version I saw did have them.

If I can find more details for you, I’ll let you know!

Guy

Thanks, for great photos and stories

Just ended a 6-day cross-half-island bike awesome trip. Sharing in case someone has considered it and (like me) has been discouraged by basically everyone around :rofl: :rofl: Don’t listen to them!

KAOHSIUNG TO TAITUNG.
Similar to what I have already written before, just nicer weather :grin: Take the coastal route through Xiaogang, Donggang, Linbian (小港, 東港, 林邊) rather than the internal one through Pingtung: smoother, less traffic and (as far as industrial nightmarish Kaohsiung can be) prettier. Be careful along the Fangshan-Fenglin (枋山 楓林) stretch: wind is brutal.

TAITUNG TO HUALIEN.
I started riding through the mountains just outside of Taitung to Chulu (初鹿), which offered nice views over the valley, but was disappointed by the remaining stretch to Yuli (玉里): just never-ending flat land with mountains left and right. I will try the Dulan Forest (都蘭) route next time. Change of mood after turning right towards the mountains, like @afterspivak wrote. The crossing between Yuli and Changbin (長濱) is amazing even with sprinkles of rain and the remaining coastal route up to Hualian a breath-taking sequence of cliffs, beaches and villages. For those who have only been on the West coast, please do it: it will change your view on Taiwan!

HUALIEN TO CHANGHUA (part 1 to Dayuling 大禹嶺)
The nicest thing I was told by people who heard that I was planning to ride across the (in)famous Zhongbu Cross-Island Highway (中橫) was: “You will die there and nobody will ever find you”. That’s probably why I did it :rofl: :rofl: Jokes apart, done with a proper bike (mine was a common 125cc, but well maintained and inspected just before I left for this trip) and with good weather (sunny blue sky all the way) the route is no more of a challenge than any other summer route in the Alps. The road is in perfect conditions, warning signs and guardrails everywhere, frequent rest areas and good phone signal. The view… well… you will find out when you do it :sunglasses: Let’s just say that I posted a video on IG and my relatives thought that I was back in Europe. Advice: there is one CPC station slightly before Dayuling. Remember to refuel because there will be no more until you reach Qingjing ( 清境). I would also suggest you stop at the last CPC just before entering Taroko to ensure that you are full tank before the big ride. Better safe than sorry :love_you_gesture:

HUALIEN TO CHANGHUA (part 2)
Riding to Dayuling was quiet and pleasant; things changed radically after I turned left towards Wuling ( 武嶺). Nothing to complain about the view, which remains stunning from the over 3,000m peak, but the crowd of people, bikes and cars coming to the peak from the West coast ruined the show. I hope that it was only due to CNY because it really spoiled my mood after spending most of the time avoiding couples taking selfies and queuing behind cars. Anyway, after the peak the road is just a steep descent towards Qingjing (a totally avoidable Disneyland) with nice views over the agricultural “heart” of Taiwan. The remaining two hours to Changhua are an interesting ride across green valleys with palm trees on one side and pink flowers (apparently only popping out in this season of the year) on the other.

CHANGHUA TO KAOHSIUNG.
I hoped that I could try the coastal route with some stops on the way, but the wind forced me to abort mission and take the usual unimpressive one. Only nice treat the stop in Dongshi (東石) for fresh seafood and oysters in any possible way :drooling_face: If you are popping by on a non-windy day, don’t miss the Augu Wetland Forest Park (鰲鼓濕地). One note: if you are on a bike, which means no highway anyway, the old 19甲 route is a nice trick to by-pass Tainan and the crazy traffic, especially after 5pm :grin: Google Maps should offer it as a slightly longer alternative route.

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Great write up!

But given your route, I suspect those “palm trees” were betel nut trees.

Guy

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Nice trip. I don’t know if I could do it on a scooter these days. Where did you stay? Hotels or campsites?