Hey Luke,
Looking at doing a full strip, clean, rebuild. What’s the best way to contact you for a quote and arranging a time? Thanks!
Please refer to my profile for location and inbox me details of your bike for further discussion. Godspeed.
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Hi Luke,
Do you have a source for a set of Kinlin (Kaohsiung) XR380 rims?
They come as F20H / R24H.
Car drove over my rims, they are toast, but I like to rebuild them as I kind of like them as sturdy, light alloys.
Sorry to hear your drama. My sources don’t carry Kinlin but there are a few shops selling XR380 online(eg. Ruten) for $1600/pc. Alternatively, Alexrims R380 is also very similar and lightweight. I can re-build for you but you have to source them yourself.
Thanks, but for the record;
Alexrims R380 are not similar, they have a ~24mm rim height, where the Kinlin XR380 is 38mm, which make them so nice for an semi aero alloy wheel set (~1.700 gram in niobium-aluminum alloy with a moderate hubs and aero spokes).
oh silly me. Alexrims R380 is definitely not that deep. My memory didn’t serve me right this time.
Recent services on SHIMANO XTR WH-M970 and Deore LX FH-M570. I rebuilt a few freehub bodies over the years, though satisfying but never a fun job. The LX hub was a preowned and rebuilt as my commuter wheel for over 10 years. All the old grease caked and dried out but the bearings stays OK and races look good. Heavy as a rock but bloody bomb-proof.
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A rare case I luckily repaired recently. The first gen Di2 derailleur is already in the scarce category. If I fail, not only the whole industry has one less RD-7970, but also the whole system on the bike is rendered useless, then a reluctant upgrade comes to the show.
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How is the multimeter used for a repair like this?!
How do you plan to fix broken plastic part? If it’s ABS you can weld it with MEK but anything else, like PE can’t really be solvent welded (I only heard of dissolving PET in ethylene glycol, AKA antifreeze to recycle the bottles into expanding foam). Or are you planning on using fiberglass to fix it?
For initial assessment.
Case is closed, I should have put “If I had failed…” Spare my English.
A structural damage like this I’m simply not confident to reuse the broken bit even repaired. Apparently you know better in chemicals than I do. Other approach was made.
I’m sorry, Shimano. That piece is just plastic ? On a $1000+ groupset?
Maybe That’s why they are rare. Quickly moved on.
Plastics doesn’t always mean cheap. The mold for plastic in particular is quite expensive, like more than 100,000 USD even for a small part. But they are used to produce parts in the millions so the unit cost is low. So if the product was a small run then it’s understandable that they use plastic even though it’s an expensive part. But they could have used something tougher, like fiber reinforced or something (like Glock pistol frames, almost impossible to break even if hammered on with a sledge hammer). The way that plastic part broke does not suggest that it was a particularly strong plastic.
If you had a 3D printer the easier thing to do is probably 3D print it or something. But sometimes the reason metal aren’t used because the machining for it would be very complex, but also another reason to use them may be weight as well. But honestly they could have used carbon fiber or something. The way that plastic broke looks like ABS honestly. PE is quite strong and they stretch rather than break. But that’s inexcusable on a 1000 dollar part! They really could have used much stronger plastic.
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Pray tell more! I’ve never seen anyone use a multimeter to perform an assessment on a plastic bicycle part.
My analogy would be: say your laptop fell off and the hinge got broken/bent. You would have some initial assessment rather than repair that hinge first thing.
Recent repairs and services(struggles):
- GIANT ANTHEM X2 PIVOT SERVICE
- MARZOCCHI BOMBER Z4 2001 OIL CHANGE
- SHIMANO DURA-ACE ST-9001-L REPAIR
- SHIMANO ULTEGRA PD-6620 PEDALS
- SHIMANO DEORE FH-M510 FREEHUB SERVICE
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Recent service on a pair of SHIMANO DURA-ACE PD-R9100 pedals.
Since the new semi-cartridge design was introduced, I’ve seen a fair bit of water ingression, premature wear and tear on these pedals. I assume it’s from the combination of loose balls and blind hole. This design takes much less grease and a outward pushing force is inevitable while re-assembling, hence the defective water resistance.
Recent struggles:
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SHIMANO DURA-ACE ST-7801-R REPAIR
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SHIMANO 105 ST-5600-L REBUILD
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Adaptor designing for TACX repair stand
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Due to the current pandemic ordeal, my international inquiries pretty much now non-existent. Only got 1 from NZ, none from AU, and JPN & Korea & HK are dead silent. Interesting enough I start to get more and more local inquiries on shifter repairs.
Recent repair/services:
- SHIMANO 105 ST-5700-R REBUILD
- SHIMANO ULTEGRA ST-6603 REBUILD/RATCHET REPLACEMENT
- SHIMANO SL-R441-L REPAIR
- SHIMANO DEORE LX SL-M569 REBUILD
- ROCKSHOX TOTEM OIL CHANGE
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